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#1
05-31-2007, 07:34 PM
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control arm adjustment???
Ok. so after a long night, and morning i got the coil springs and shocks in, but one thing i notice were the bolts at the end of the Arm Shaft.( both sides) they seems to adjust or move as i tighten or loosen it up, is there a certain amount of twist that are needed to be done? or does the shaft need to be evenly tightened on both sides?
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463 Stroker Kit. ross pistons. h beam rods. eagle crank. 62 heads 72cc, port matched Performer RPM-850DP Auburn- 3.55 gear CC HR custom grind |
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#2
05-31-2007, 09:14 PM
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Upper? Lower? Front? Back?
A pic may go a long way
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http://s180.photobucket.com/albums/x...t=21970dbc.pbw http://s180.photobucket.com/albums/x...t=10fd31d1.pbw http://s180.photobucket.com/albums/x...t=f1a25a49.pbw There are no laws against being in love with a Goat.....Right?? 
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#3
05-31-2007, 10:59 PM
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 the bolt at the cap of the Control arm. (upper) disregard the saw dust.
__________________
463 Stroker Kit. ross pistons. h beam rods. eagle crank. 62 heads 72cc, port matched Performer RPM-850DP Auburn- 3.55 gear CC HR custom grind |
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#4
05-31-2007, 11:01 PM
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Are you talking the ones that go through the bushings or the ones that mount the control arms to the frame?
__________________
http://s180.photobucket.com/albums/x...t=21970dbc.pbw http://s180.photobucket.com/albums/x...t=10fd31d1.pbw http://s180.photobucket.com/albums/x...t=f1a25a49.pbw There are no laws against being in love with a Goat.....Right??
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#5
05-31-2007, 11:14 PM
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OK I think I see what you're asking.
I have a 69 and my rod that bolts to the frame actually has threaded ends so there is a nut that goes on each end. I assume that you have a bolt on each end and the rod that bolts to the frame is drilled out and threaded to accept the bolt? If this is the case and you can't tighten the bolt anymore because it just spins then my guess would be that the threads are stripped out of the rod. Let me know if I'm correct in what I'm thinking in regards to how the bolt through the bushing attaches. If your talking about the bolt that connects the rod to the frame you have to double wrench it before you install the springs. You need to rotate the control arm so it's up and out of the way to get to the head of the bolt. Please clarify which one you are referring to.
__________________
http://s180.photobucket.com/albums/x...t=21970dbc.pbw http://s180.photobucket.com/albums/x...t=10fd31d1.pbw http://s180.photobucket.com/albums/x...t=f1a25a49.pbw There are no laws against being in love with a Goat.....Right??
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#6
06-01-2007, 01:35 AM
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The bolts on the end of the control arm shaft are torqued.
The removal of the old bushing most likely spread out the control arm a bit and what you are be seeing is the upper control arm being compressed back into its original shape. Remember to torque the the bolts down only when you have the full weight of the engine and sheet metal on the suspension. Torquing them while the suspension is uncompressed may lead to problems with the front end sitting higher that expected due to the bushing acting like a torsion bar of sorts. |
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#7
06-01-2007, 01:41 AM
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Quote:
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How many of you have driven over 340? 
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#8
06-01-2007, 02:37 AM
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yea HUH?
JK. i understand what you are saying. so the bolts at the end of the shaft dont need to be tighten a certain amount? doesn mess with allingment or something? also when you say torqued you mean as far as it can go?
__________________
463 Stroker Kit. ross pistons. h beam rods. eagle crank. 62 heads 72cc, port matched Performer RPM-850DP Auburn- 3.55 gear CC HR custom grind |
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#9
06-01-2007, 02:59 AM
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They do need to be torqued, or at least, tightened enough so that they don't back off.
What I said "huh" to was when the contol arm being compressed was mentioned...not sure what was meant by it.
__________________
How many of you have driven over 340?
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#10
06-01-2007, 05:24 AM
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They should be torqued to 45 ft lbs
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A friend will help you move...a GOOD friend will help you move a body. |
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