[samiralfey]

Was going through wiring and got the indicators and park lights working again but couldn't get the instrument lights to work. Replaced few burnt bulbs and had my hopes up but no. Fuse was ok, checked with a multmeter.

All lights are out, gas, amp and clock, too.

Is this a common problem and where should I start looking? Headlight switch perhaps?

[mgarblik]

Yes, all the dash lights go through the headlight switch. If an original switch try some spray contact cleaner and rapidly rotate the rheostat shaft right and left many times and see if you at least get a flicker out of the lights. The rheostat gets oxidized after 50+ years. I don't know if a reproduction switch is available or even any good.

[gary bennett]

Did you check the fuse

[Heybuck]

My experience is that the ground wire is often the culprit. I would get a new wire, securely attach it to the instrument cluster and directly attach it to the body of the car then test it.
It is possible your switch is faulty and the idea to spray contact cleaner into it has merit but my FIRST choice would be to ENSURE the ground wires are sound.
If in fact you decide it is the switch, be very careful you get the correct switch. A ‘65 big car has a unique switch. Looks the same as other years but internally they are different. But switches rarely fail unless some previous owner has been running high wattage globes which will burn it out.
My second bit of advice is to rewire the headlights, both high and low beams, using a relay to each light. That way the switch is only using milliamps to send current to the lights. I run a relay on each light so 4 relays. Hide them under the fenders so they are not seen. By running a relay to each light, if one relay fails, your other lights will continue to operate.
Let us know how you go
Ian

[samiralfey]

Originally Posted by Heybuck

My experience is that the ground wire is often the culprit. I would get a new wire, securely attach it to the instrument cluster and directly attach it to the body of the car then test it.
It is possible your switch is faulty and the idea to spray contact cleaner into it has merit but my FIRST choice would be to ENSURE the ground wires are sound.
If in fact you decide it is the switch, be very careful you get the correct switch. A ‘65 big car has a unique switch. Looks the same as other years but internally they are different. But switches rarely fail unless some previous owner has been running high wattage globes which will burn it out.
My second bit of advice is to rewire the headlights, both high and low beams, using a relay to each light. That way the switch is only using milliamps to send current to the lights. I run a relay on each light so 4 relays. Hide them under the fenders so they are not seen. By running a relay to each light, if one relay fails, your other lights will continue to operate.
Let us know how you go
Ian

Did as you suggested today but to no avail. Also tried turning and wiggling the headlight switch and again nothing so tomorrow I'll take the switch out and try to clean it and check if I can see anything broken in it. Will measure it also with a multimeter to be sure power/no power goes to panel light wires.

On the bright side, I got the clock ticking again.

[samiralfey]

Found out that the rheostat was dead, no connection between the points. Ordered a new switch so let's see what difference it makes. Jumping the terminals got the courtesy light working as well as the panel lights so must be the switch.