[Mwieczorek]

This is for my 1966 Bonneville. The car currently has plain old power brake drums (no 8 lugs).

I'm planning to upgrade my front brakes to discs when I install my new rear axle. That way I'll have all nice new brakes and bearings and whatnot. I was just going to order the whole kit with a new booster/master cylinder/proportioning valve.

Are there any issues with the kit that I should be aware of? It looks like the pads are easy enough to get, but what about the rotors? Do these kits use an available rotor from another car that I can replace later if needed, or is this a one-off rotor?

I sent them an email asking these questions and they haven't responded. Also, their website quoted me $200 to ship a couple boxes from NC to MI. Yeesh...

Thanks!

[ben3843100]

Originally Posted by Mwieczorek

This is for my 1966 Bonneville. The car currently has plain old power brake drums (no 8 lugs).

I'm planning to upgrade my front brakes to discs when I install my new rear axle. That way I'll have all nice new brakes and bearings and whatnot. I was just going to order the whole kit with a new booster/master cylinder/proportioning valve.

Are there any issues with the kit that I should be aware of? It looks like the pads are easy enough to get, but what about the rotors? Do these kits use an available rotor from another car that I can replace later if needed, or is this a one-off rotor?

I sent them an email asking these questions and they haven't responded. Also, their website quoted me $200 to ship a couple boxes from NC to MI. Yeesh...

Thanks!

I have some Master Power parts on my 1966 2+2 and have used a couple different front disk configurations over the past couple years including Scarebird and Baer. I had no problems adapting my Master Power booster,dual Corvette master, or disk/disk combination valve to my car. I installed stainless steel brake lines as well which WERE a pain In the butt. Since you already have a factory power brake car I believe the master will bolt directly to your firewall with no ratio adaptor which is a much cleaner look than a power brake conversion for an original manual brake car. I hated the adaptor so much that I removed it and bought a power brake pedal off eBay.

You didn’t specify what Master Power kit you were planning to use. They sell the Legend (11”) or Pro Driver (13”). I asked the same question you had regarding the 11” kit and I believe the answer was that they have the rotors in the 11” kit custom made to their specifications. I have the “Pro Driver” kit on my car now which is actually made for Master Power by Baer. I did not have any issues fitting the Pro Driver kit on my ‘66, but it is completely different than the 11” kit.

The biggest thing to be aware of is the wheel size requirements. The 11” kit requires a minimum 15” wheel and the 13” kit requires a minimum 17” wheel and spacers to allow the wheel to clear the 4-piston calipers.

There is also the issue of the slightly increased track width (at least with the 13” kit) which is not really an issue on the front, but can cause problems on the back if you buy a rear-disk kit. The tire to inner fender lip clearance is pretty tight on a b-body with a 7” aftermarket wheel with what seems to be a typical 4” to 4.25” offset.

Let me know if you want more info or pics. I have many.


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[ben3843100]

One more comment. If you were not aware of the 15” minimum wheel size requirement for the Master Power kit and still want to run factory wheels and hubcaps, Scarebird.com does offer an updated front disk conversion kit that is compatible with OE 14” wheels.

https://scarebird.com/index.php?rout...product_id=251

(Scarebird had an old front kit that had a 15” minimum wheel size and it seems that many are not aware of the newer kit that fits under 14” wheels.)


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[Mwieczorek]

Thanks for the reply!

I was planning on using the Master Power Legend HP kit with 11" rotors. I already have 15x7 Cragar SS wheels on the car, so they should clear. I am just planning to do discs on the front for now, the rear will remain stock drums. I already bought 2" taller rear springs to get the rear fender lip up and away from the tires. This past summer I limped along with air shocks pumped up to the max and still got a few marks on the driver side tire with 225/70R15 tires.

The Scarebird kit it interesting, but then I don't know what other parts (booster/master cylinder/proportioning valve) would work to complete the conversion.

[ben3843100]

The Master Power stuff is good, but the Scarebird stuff is good as well. In my first configuration I used the booster, dual corvette master, and combination valve recommended by and purchased from Master Power, but the custom front brake hubs, bearings and caliper adaptors were from Scarebird, braided lines were from Amazon, calipers were from OPGI (modified Wilwoods aluminum calipers are shown in the pic) and rotors were from a 2003-2006 Dodge Sprinter 3500 or thereabouts.


ScareBird Kit for 1966 B-Body - $469.00

*** Can be used with OE 14" drum brake wheels
Front Disc Brake Conversion Kit
Includes new machined aluminum hubs, bearings, seals and dust caps
Includes brackets
+ 43.99 x2 ($87.98 total) for remanufactured standard GM calipers which include pads (from OPGI)
+ $122.38 for ATL Autosports drilled & slotted rotors (11.22 diameter) (you could get cheaper rotors, but these look nice ;-)
+ $37.00 for Braided SS brake hoses
Includes hardware


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