[67 455 Bird ragtop]

It's been a while sine I used any "chrome" paint. I do remember it not being very good. But that was a long time ago. Is there a really good chrome paint out there ??? Rattle can would be preferred since I don't need too much. I have a fiberglass center panel for the dash radio/gauges area that I would like to paint top look like the factory version. I was figuring on using wrinkle paint for the main part then a chrome color for the outer trim color. If I need to clear it afterwards to help keep it from rubbing off which was the problem with the old stuff no big deal. Just looking for a paint that has a really good chrome appearance.

[Old Goat 67]

Don't know what you're trying to do, but read this thread.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...+killer+chrome

Don't put the clear on top, dulls it up.

Charles

[67 455 Bird ragtop]

My goal is to try and make the fiberglass bezel look like the factory panel on my 67 'Bird. I figure some wrinkle paint for the black center. And some kind of chrome for the outer trim.

[geeteeohguy]

The regular chrome spray paint looks like polished aluminum, not chrome. Not a bad look, just not chrome. The 'killer chrome' is the best system I have seen for replicating chrome without actually re-chroming.

[rexs73gto]

I've tried several of the chrome paint in spray cans & when you get the can the lid is nice & shinny but when you spray it out it comes out looking like bright alum. It doesn't look like the can lid at all. There is a system out that when you use it it looks better then chrome. I've seen it several time on youtube & it looks great. It is a 2 or 3 part system & it isn't very expensive from what I remember. But the spray cans don't work ,, at least fro me they didn't.

[Ben]

Try the rust-oleum metallic finish did the A/C vents I think it turned out great
Best chrome paint I have seen

[PMD1969]

Originally Posted by geeteeohguy

The regular chrome spray paint looks like polished aluminum, not chrome. Not a bad look, just not chrome. The 'killer chrome' is the best system I have seen for replicating chrome without actually re-chroming.

http://www.alsacorp.com/products/kil...llerchrome.htm

http://youtu.be/jRQIYbX08gM

[P Glade]

Originally Posted by rexs73gto

I've tried several of the chrome paint in spray cans & when you get the can the lid is nice & shinny but when you spray it out it comes out looking like bright alum. It doesn't look like the can lid at all. There is a system out that when you use it it looks better then chrome. I've seen it several time on youtube & it looks great. It is a 2 or 3 part system & it isn't very expensive from what I remember. But the spray cans don't work ,, at least fro me they didn't.

Same results here with multiple attempts using that "killer chrome" spray can system...a complete waste of $145 or so. Tech/support people kept giving mixed info on how to apply it each time I called. Now it's just 3 cans of extra spray paint on the shelf. (Yeah, watched all those videos they have as well....that's called a "sales pitch")

If I was to try it again I'd try something from a hobby shop that uses an air brush..Alclad is the brand name I believe.

As already mentioned by a previous poster...if you shoot clear over the traditional spray can chrome paints it'll dull it down and make it look more grey...not what you are looking for.

[67 455 Bird ragtop]

Originally Posted by rexs73gto

I've tried several of the chrome paint in spray cans & when you get the can the lid is nice & shinny but when you spray it out it comes out looking like bright alum. It doesn't look like the can lid at all. There is a system out that when you use it it looks better then chrome. I've seen it several time on youtube & it looks great. It is a 2 or 3 part system & it isn't very expensive from what I remember. But the spray cans don't work ,, at least fro me they didn't.

I think I know what you are talking about. I need to check out how cost effective it would be for my application. Also found this from Eastwood.

http://www.eastwood.com/ew-liquid-ch...clear-kit.html

[P Glade]

Probably worth 7 minutes or so of your time....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4AKxXZXTcY4

[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by P Glade

Probably worth 7 minutes or so of your time....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4AKxXZXTcY4

From looking at that Patton, I'd say the Alclad Chrome is exactly the same as the Alsa Corp Killer Chrome that Charles linked to....But much cheaper in that form as long as you have your own airbrush to apply it.
The kid doing the video hit on a couple of things that I believe pinpoint the mistakes many people have made with the Alsa Corp Killer Chrome. I guarantee you'll have the same problems with the Alclad if you don't follow these clues he mentioned...

• First, the black has to be very smooth and very glossy. The better you get this, the better it'll look in the end. I learned this after my first failed attempt with the Killer Chrome. I decided to spray a bit on the plastic cap to one of the spray cans. It was black and extremely shiny and smooth. To my amazement, it looked like chrome right away. After that, I spent much more time getting the black to look good. The chrome paint is just the icing.

• Secondly, the 'chrome' has to be sprayed very, VERY lightly. You are almost putting on a translucent dusting of silver. In my opinion, it's really the black that gives it the 'chrome look'.

At least, that's been my experience with the Alsacorp stuff.

Next time, I'll definitely try the Alclad from the local hobby shop, since I had already decided that if I bought more of the Killer Chrome from Alsa Corp, I was just going to get the silver.
$10 a bottle at the hobby shop is a heck of a deal when compared to the $50 can from Alsa Corp.
I can do my own black with Krylon Rust Tough. It has a great gloss and that's key to the chrome-like finish..

Here's one I did with the Killer Chrome. Excuse the warped plastic at the top of the bezel. I have a better (and unmolested) core now that I am now going to try the Alclad on.

[Old Goat 67]

What Greg said above is absolutely the truth. The shine on the black is 90% of the job.
The lighter the chrome, the better. And no clear, just dulls it up.

Charles

[P Glade]

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

From looking at that Patton, I'd say the Alclad Chrome is exactly the same as the Alsa Corp Killer Chrome that Charles linked to....But much cheaper in that form as long as you have your own airbrush to apply it.
The kid doing the video hit on a couple of things that I believe pinpoint the mistakes many people have made with the Alsa Corp Killer Chrome. I guarantee you'll have the same problems with the Alclad if you don't follow these clues he mentioned...

Greg - Please clarify something... people always mention "very light coats. Well....does that mean, based on your experience with WHAT WORKED, that....

>You spray very light coats but MANY of them until you have a completely "chrome" looking surface. In other words, until the underlying black is COMPLETELY HIDDEN????

OR...

>You only spray a few light coats and leave a somewhat transparent finish with the black still "showing through"....ie..black not completely hidden??

Another poster above alluded to these "light coats" as well I believe.

So....two different techniques/end results I am asking about and BOTH use light coats. Difference is in how well hidden the underlying black is. I'm not referring at all to the clear in these questions....just the second stage (the "chrome" paint itself).

Thanks

[Greg Reid]

Well Patton, I guess I would describe it as 'fog' coats. I'll admit that it is tricky and I haven't done it enough to have foolproof results on everything I've tried it on. I think the key is that when it looks good to you, STOP. It's not like traditional paint where when it looks good, you can put another nice, wet coat on and it looks even better or 'deeper' (as long as you don't induce any sags or runs)....
Also, don't linger over the surface as long as you would with paint. In the following clip from Killer Chrome, notice how fast he moves across the piece generally just fogging the surface....and also with a good bit of distance from the object. With paint, it's a slower, but constant speed across the surface.
The biggest problem I have with the Killer Chrome is consistency of results...and that probably comes with practice. With the Killer Chrome, that could get expensive.
The Alclad is definitely in a good form to just play around with until you get the results you want.
Again, the black shiny surface is critical to the results. That's the main thing I learned in playing around with it. The slicker that is, the better. I've even seen some recommending a slick clear coat over the black before adding the Chrome. http://www.alsacorp.com/live/view_ki...rome_demo.html

Any way you cut it, even though this stuff is not 100% like chrome, it is light years ahead of that stuff you buy at Wal-Mart or Autozone with the chrome cap. Not even close.

[P Glade]

Thanks Greg....but...back to my main question....

>Are you completely hiding the black undercoat with however many light "chrome" coats it takes...OR...are you only applying a few fogged coats of the chrome and leaving it a bit transparent??

Your comment above to the effect...."until it looks good" leads me to think you are completely covering/hiding the underlying black and achieving a "bright" chrome finish with the fogged on coats instead of leaving it transparent.....

???

Thanks very much!

[67 455 Bird ragtop]

I found we have a hydro graphics place here in town. I'll stop by and see what they say. I'm considering carbon in the center and a polished look on the edge. I'll do a follow up after I talk to them.

http://www.tacticalgraphicsinc.com/

[Old Goat 67]

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

Well Patton, I guess I would describe it as 'fog' coats. I'll admit that it is tricky and I haven't done it enough to have foolproof results on everything I've tried it on. I think the key is that when it looks good to you, STOP. It's not like traditional paint where when it looks good, you can put another nice, wet coat on and it looks even better or 'deeper' (as long as you don't induce any sags or runs)....
Also, don't linger over the surface as long as you would with paint. In the following clip from Killer Chrome, notice how fast he moves across the piece generally just fogging the surface....and also with a good bit of distance from the object. With paint, it's a slower, but constant speed across the surface.
The biggest problem I have with the Killer Chrome is consistency of results...and that probably comes with practice. With the Killer Chrome, that could get expensive.
The Alclad is definitely in a good form to just play around with until you get the results you want.
Again, the black shiny surface is critical to the results. That's the main thing I learned in playing around with it. The slicker that is, the better. I've even seen some recommending a slick clear coat over the black before adding the Chrome. http://www.alsacorp.com/live/view_ki...rome_demo.html

Any way you cut it, even though this stuff is not 100% like chrome, it is light years ahead of that stuff you buy at Wal-Mart or Autozone with the chrome cap. Not even close.

Originally Posted by P Glade

Thanks Greg....but...back to my main question....

>Are you completely hiding the black undercoat with however many light "chrome" coats it takes...OR...are you only applying a few fogged coats of the chrome and leaving it a bit transparent??

Your comment above to the effect...."until it looks good" leads me to think you are completely covering/hiding the underlying black and achieving a "bright" chrome finish with the fogged on coats instead of leaving it transparent.....

???

Thanks very much!

To add my two cents here, I found that no more than 2 VERY LIGHT coats was where I needed to stop. No matter what my inclination was! Trust me, I screwed up a multitude of test objects.

Charles

[Tim66]

I tried the killer chrome also and I didn't like it.Way too expensive,I ended up sending mine out to be done.Good luck.Tim
Mr G's Enterprises

[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by P Glade

Thanks Greg....but...back to my main question....

>Are you completely hiding the black undercoat with however many light "chrome" coats it takes...OR...are you only applying a few fogged coats of the chrome and leaving it a bit transparent??

Your comment above to the effect...."until it looks good" leads me to think you are completely covering/hiding the underlying black and achieving a "bright" chrome finish with the fogged on coats instead of leaving it transparent.....

???

Thanks very much!

I would say that your last paragraph is probably accurate.
I definitely would NOT say you are actively trying to let the black show through. You are spraying enough to cover the black but 'somehow' it does have a definite effect on the look of the topcoat. I would say that the chrome is sort of translucent. It drys out almost immediately. I suppose the only liquid in the mix is just as a medium for depositing the metal on the object. Whatever it is, it evaporates rapidly. The most important thing here is to know when to stop. When it looks good, don't add more thinking it'll look better. Experimentation is helpful here.

Lots of people have apparently had problems with the process/product. In fact, the can I had, I bought used from a member here who said it was junk. I expect that I could probably buy a few more cans that way from some of the guys here.
I used all that was left in that can getting one thing to look right. I think I could do it again knowing what I know now about the surface prep.
Slick, shiny, black.

I would say that whichever you use, the Alclad or the Killer Chrome, again, practice with it for a while on a slick, black object. Once you can get it to work on something, you'll see the potential. This is where the Alclad should have a definite advantage due to the much cheaper cost.
EDIT-
I did a quick search for a comparison between the two products and came up with an interesting post from a plastic modeler's forum. Seems they had problems with the Killer Chrome as well. They mentioned another that looks like it may be even better than the Alclad. It's called 'Spaz Stix'. This is a comparison between all three. http://www.automotiveforums.com/t638...ome_quot_.html
Well detailed and honest review from a real-world user and the photos are good enough to show what you can really expect. Not exactly like true factory chrome but a nice finish that looks like highly polished metal. This Spaz stuff looks promising as well. Note also, that he had better results even with the Killer Chrome using an airbrush.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/t638...ome_quot_.html

[P Glade]

Thanks all.....I think it's likely that the spray can form is the culprit instead of the product itself. The killer chrome video doesn't show the guy doing super light coats and leaving transparency. He appears to get very thorough hiding/coverage.

I may experiment with some that I have left using the very light coats and not-completely-hidden-black coverage.

You're right Greg...this stuff has to be figured out as what I am working with requires a massive and tedious masking operation. The LAST thing is the coating and having it screw up or come out inconsistent is a real pisser after going through all the prior steps.

If I get some results I'll post here but not sure when I'll be doing this stuff so it may be awhile.

EDIT: someone mentioned Mr. G's...I've heard they're out of the plastic rechroming business (not a huge loss as people were constantly having problems with them on some other Abody sites).

I recommend ChromeTech USA for vacuum metallizing.

Thanks