[HWYSTR455]

Summit has the braided wire covering that's affordable, it will clean up the harness if you unwrap it:

https://www.summitracing.com/search/...rder=Ascending

They make multiple diameters, and use adhesive shrink tubing to seal the ends, or wrap the ends with electrical tape. Makes for a super clean install.


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[wbnapier]

Not done today, but made big progress. I wired up the starter solenoid, but I am not 100% on it. Attached is a photo.

I am using the Mad Electric relay.

I have two equal size terminals on the solenoid.

Terminal 1 on the driver's side has 3 wires going to it.
1) Big battery +
2) Power to the relay
3) Batter power to primary junction block on fireway (Mad Electric system)

Terminal 2 on the passenger side has 1 wire going to it.
1) Power from the relay (triggered when cranking)

Is this correct?

[wbnapier]

I think I messed up. The yellow wire needs to go to the tab with an appropriate terminal. Please let me know what you think.

[HWYSTR455]

Why not go to a remote sol? That would be much easier than trying to run all those wires down there and in the heat. Then that could be your common post, the Batt+.

If you're using a junction block common point, run the power to the relay from that.

Remind me why you're running a wire from the cranking post on the starter?


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[wbnapier]

HWYSTR455,

When I bought the upgraded wiring, junction blocks, and relay kits from Mad Electric he no longer offers the remote solenoid. Also, I have no heat sink issues on the solenoid and I didn't want to get into more customization at this point.

The red, power into the relay connects to the starter is per Mad Electric's instructions. Short run. I suppose I could run it to junction block, but I always like to follow instructions.

The brown wire (fusible link) is from the primary junction block. This is the battery charging wire. It could have gone to either the starter terminal or the battery+. That's how the car runs on battery only and how the battery gets charged. Maybe I'll change that one at just go to the battery +. In this case, Mad Electric likes a longer run.

The yellow wire is the power from the relay, which should trigger the solenoid. Is it correctly placed on the passenger side terminal? Or should it be on the tab with a different style terminal?

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by wbnapier

The yellow wire is the power from the relay, which should trigger the solenoid. Is it correctly placed on the passenger side terminal? Or should it be on the tab with a different style terminal?

Have you got a link to the mad directions for this?

Purple wire from ignition switch through neutral safety switch should be all you need for solenoid engage/energize. And that is wired to the small terminal that makes the solenoid work.

Lost here on relay yellow talk
Clay

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Is that a male spade terminal just above the word passenger in your picture?



If so, that's where the factory purple wire should go.

Should not have any extra wires on the solenoid lug that goes to the starter brushes.

Clay

[HWYSTR455]

I don't have a hot start problem either, but run a Ford sol. That's all it is, is a Ford dol, any parts store has one. I run the Ford sol so I can use it as my main power distro.

The other advantage of using a Ford sol is that the wire that goes to the starter is only hot during cranking. Any wire that goes down there will heat soak and resistance goes way up.

That power distro you have on the firewall should be your main power source. The batt connections should go there, alt charge wire, starter power wire, relay power, etc. The point is to have as few, if not just one, power post.

I'm getting lost too, not sure, maybe draw a diagram of how it is now.

Which MAD diagram are you using, the PowerUp! one? Give me the URL so I can see which you are referencing.


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[HWYSTR455]

Summit Remote Starter Sol Kit:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...iABEgJcHfD_BwE


$22.00

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[HWYSTR455]

Look at this wiring diagram from MAD: (The bottom one, 'New System')

http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...evymain2.shtml

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[wbnapier]

Quick-silver,

Yes, that is a male spade. And yes, that is where I should but my yellow wire. I made a mistake. Thank God for this forum.

Yes, the purple wire will connect to my relay, which will in turn trigger power on, and send power to the solenoid through the yellow wire.


HWYSTR455,

Yes, in the "New system diagram" note the 10 gauge wire from the primary junction block to the #ST-1 (starter solenoid). That is what I did, but plan to relocate to the + battery terminal. Also, maybe the red relay wire.

I have a different diagram from him for the starter that isn't on his web. I'm at work, so can't upload it now.

I'll try to post tonight.

[wbnapier]

I haven't updated in a while. I finished the project, except for the remote solenoid installation. I have it ready to go, and that is phase two.

All is good. One question remains, the alternator output wire gauge using the Mad Electrical system is 8 gauge going to the primary junction block on the firewall. My alternator is 150 amps, and everyone tells me that I should use a 6 or even 4 gauge wire. This concerns me.

[HWYSTR455]

Well, there's one line of thinking that you want to use a slightly smaller gauge to help control the flow direction.

Remember too that the regulator won't typically pump the entire 150a at once, unless there's a dead short, and even then, enough time shorted would cook the regulator.

Just use the same gauge wire you use from the alt to the common point as the batt to common point is. That also dictates your ground to batt gauge.


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[Bill Hanlon]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Well, there's one line of thinking that you want to use a slightly smaller gauge to help control the flow direction.

I thought those were called diodes.

[HWYSTR455]

Yeah, I didn't explain that well.

Ok, so the alt reads voltage at the alt power post on a 1 wire. If the voltage is lower than the set rate, it cranks up the output. The common post, due to load, will have a combined rating of all the loads, so if you run too large of a wire to the common post, there will be an immediate bumping of the voltage up. When loads start, it usually takes more power initially, and then goes somewhat steady. If you have the same size wire all the way from your alt to the actual load, it could damage the accessory from the voltage spike.

Is that better?

The battery, is better charged with a slower rate (trickle) than a high rate, high rates can impact the longevity of the battery, and the life can be shorted drastically. (Deep cycle rates are limited, even on Deep Cycle batteries). Not to mention, you never will really have a heavily discharged battery, and even so, you don't want to charge it with the alt. If it doesn't start the car due to a heavily discharged battery, you jump, or put it on a charger.

The charging system, with one or even two gauge sizes smaller than the 'technical' requirement based on the output of the alt, can still handle a few jump start-type scenarios of a rapid charge cycle.

That's about the best I can do explaining right now, but with more time/thought, I could do better. (Sorry, did not reread and check for errors)


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[HWYSTR455]

From MAD:

http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...evymain1.shtml

"Currentflow through the battery charging wire will only be alarge amount when the battery is discharged. Therefore, significant voltage drop only occurredwhen recharging a low battery. This is when the beneficial side effect comesinto play; the voltage drop in the batterycharging wire slowed the battery charge rate. Slow rate battery charging is less abusive to thebattery than a fast charge rate. Slowing the charge rate a little can also reducethe probability of alternator overheating damage whenrecharging a low battery while driving. And slow charge rate reduces corrosion at thebattery area of these good-looking Hot Rods!

Thebattery stops accepting much current as it becomes fullycharged, and as current flow tapers off then voltage dropis reduced. Therefore a small amount of resistance at the longbattery charging wire does not prevent the battery frombecoming fully charged—it just takes a little longer torecharge a “low” battery. "

EDIT: I should have looked at that before I typed the previous response!

EDIT 2 Addition from MAD:

"Brightnessof lights, strength of ignition, and performance of otherelectrical system parts was not affected by voltage dropin the battery charging wire—because the electricalsystem did not draw power from the “charging wire” inthis Chevy system. The electrical system draws power from the splice,where voltage is controlled by the regulator. "

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[HWYSTR455]

So with that said, MAYBE one size larger charge wire from the alt to the common point than from the common point to the battery would be acceptable.


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[wbnapier]

Yes, that is the way I set mine up per Mad Electrical's advice. 8 gauge from Alternator to the primary junction block on the firewall (no fusible link), 10 gauge from primary back to battery + terminal with a fusible link. I went for a long test drive yesterday and everything was ok.

I wanted my battery light to work on the dash, which doesn't with a one wire alternator, so I added the attached gizmo to my alternator and wire harness, but I couldn't turn the engine off and had to yank the coil plug.

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

From MAD:

http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...evymain1.shtml

"Currentflow through the battery charging wire will only be alarge amount when the battery is discharged. Therefore, significant voltage drop only occurredwhen recharging a low battery. This is when the beneficial side effect comesinto play; the voltage drop in the batterycharging wire slowed the battery charge rate. Slow rate battery charging is less abusive to thebattery than a fast charge rate. Slowing the charge rate a little can also reducethe probability of alternator overheating damage whenrecharging a low battery while driving. And slow charge rate reduces corrosion at thebattery area of these good-looking Hot Rods!

Thebattery stops accepting much current as it becomes fullycharged, and as current flow tapers off then voltage dropis reduced. Therefore a small amount of resistance at the longbattery charging wire does not prevent the battery frombecoming fully charged—it just takes a little longer torecharge a “low” battery. "

EDIT: I should have looked at that before I typed the previous response!

EDIT 2 Addition from MAD:

"Brightnessof lights, strength of ignition, and performance of otherelectrical system parts was not affected by voltage dropin the battery charging wire—because the electricalsystem did not draw power from the “charging wire” inthis Chevy system. The electrical system draws power from the splice,where voltage is controlled by the regulator. "

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OP's car has dual electric fans. The MAD amendment doesn't cover what happens in the event of alternator failure and you have to drive home on the battery. Better carry spare wire and spare fusible link with you every where you go. That would include tools needed and an assortment of wire terminals/connectors.

Needs wired so the battery takes the spike from fans kicking on. Instead of the alternator going into overtime evey time the fans come on. Same for headlights. I'd want the power supply for them on the B+ side of the remote solenoid. And would want adequate guage wire from alt output to that same solenoid lug.

Just not good with some of MAD's thinking
Clay

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by wbnapier

Yes, that is the way I set mine up per Mad Electrical's advice. 8 gauge from Alternator to the primary junction block on the firewall (no fusible link), 10 gauge from primary back to battery + terminal with a fusible link. I went for a long test drive yesterday and everything was ok.

I wanted my battery light to work on the dash, which doesn't with a one wire alternator, so I added the attached gizmo to my alternator and wire harness, but I couldn't turn the engine off and had to yank the coil plug.

Ah, so it's a dual mode alt. Yes, PowerMaster uses a regulator that works as either a 1 wire or a 3 wire, even if they only list it as a 1 wire.

Instead of running the 'red wire' to the back of the post on the alt, run it to the common post. That is your voltage sensing wire.

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