[supersport#69]

My stock intake has a couple of ports that look rusty. I was going to lay it in a tub and soak it. Can I dilute a gallon of it with a gallon of water and still work?

[gto4evr]

I seriously doubt it would work well diluted. It looses it's power pretty quickly after soaking a few things in the bath at full strength. I use that stuff all the time but it's not great for thick chunky rust. It cleans light surface skim off without harming plating amazingly, but doesn't do much against the thick chunks without you grinding it back to base metal first. you could silicone up some plastic covers over the head ports and T housing and just fill it up to the carb holes to soak, but after you clean it out, it'll just re-rust everywhere you can't see inside. Evaporust is expensive and for the money you'd be better off just taking the intake somewhere and have them bead blast it with where they can get the nozzles into and call it a day. Well, that's my opinion anyways since you asked!

PS, I don't think those look bad enough to not just put a small extended wirewheel on your drill and clean what you can reach.

[supersport#69]

Thanks for the advice.

I’m returning that product tomorrow and I’ll just have it blasted next week.

[grandam1979]

If you have a local sandblaster you could do that it would look new. I can get one done for about $25.00 locally.

[gtohunter]

You could use electrolysis...it works, if you want to go through the process. Could use a cheap rubbermaid container and stick it in there? I used it for small parts and it does a great job, and won't damage parent metal, but WILL remove rust, especially in places you can't get to.
I used a bucket, a battery charger, and some tide, and it would remove the rust but not touch paint unless there was rust under it. I have a sandblasting cab., but wanted to tinker with this and it works!

I used rebar for the anodes (-) daisy chained together, and the cathode it (+), a battery charger, and some soap water.

https://homequicks.com/a-guide-to-ru...g-electrolysis

[grandam1979]

That would be a fun test I wonder what it would do for the inside of a valley pan?

[flat-bill]

Do a google search for Molasses rust removal. Cheap and fairly effective but somewhat slow. Billk

[gtohunter]

Supersport...
Here's a file I found buried in my PC.

[flat-bill]

Originally Posted by gtohunter

Supersport...
Here's a file I found buried in my PC.

I am not sure but I think that it may not remove rust on the inside of a manifold. I think its like plating and must be "line of sight" to the electrodes. Billk

[gtohunter]

Originally Posted by flat-bill

Do a google search for Molasses rust removal. Cheap and fairly effective but somewhat slow. Billk

That's where the beer comes in !

[Sirrotica]

Originally Posted by gtohunter

You could use electrolysis...it works, if you want to go through the process. Could use a cheap rubbermaid container and stick it in there? I used it for small parts and it does a great job, and won't damage parent metal, but WILL remove rust, especially in places you can't get to.
I used a bucket, a battery charger, and some tide, and it would remove the rust but not touch paint unless there was rust under it. I have a sandblasting cab., but wanted to tinker with this and it works!

I used rebar for the anodes (-) daisy chained together, and the cathode it (+), a battery charger, and some soap water.

https://homequicks.com/a-guide-to-ru...g-electrolysis

I've also used this process to de-rust the bottom of a tunnel tool box on my wrecker. It gets every bit of rust out of every thing immersed in the solution. I used a large storage bin for the tank. All you need is a battery charger, baking soda/washing soda, water, and a ferrous sacrificial anode, steel plate, rebar anything that is ferrous that you don't want any longer.

I've seen videos of people building a wooden enclosure and lining it with plastic to do whole car frames. One of the best things is the solution is non-toxic. You can just let it run out of your enclosure right into your yard, won't kill grass, or hurt anything. Many videos on You Tube on how to do this.

This process does emit hydrogen gas, which is flammable, and can be explosive under the right circumstances. (same gases a battery emits when charging them, and I've seen enough batteries explode to know how dangerous hydrogen can be) You need to eliminate ignition sources and have adequate ventilation when performing this electrolysis form of rust removal.

You can also use phosphoric acid, it's also used to clean concrete driveways etc, can be purchased at stores such as HD. It's a fairly mild acid that will convert rust to a black coating that can actually be painted over, if the area needs painting after rust removal. It's still an acid, so you should treat it as such, but diluted after use it's pretty harmless.

[gtohunter]

Originally Posted by Sirrotica

I've seen videos of people building a wooden enclosure and lining it with plastic to do whole car frames. One of the best things is the solution is non-toxic. You can just let it run out of your enclosure right into your yard, won't kill grass, or hurt anything. Many videos on You Tube on how to do this.

Obviously, if one is in a big hurry, this isn't gonna work for you! Most of the items I used this on were small parts that would have been difficult to sandblast because of "hidden" surfaces. Chunk a part in, turn the charger on and forget about it until the weekend.

[shermanator2]

I love Evaporust other than the expense and that it does not last very long. I have found a very similar product that is called Rust911 and is about 1/4 the cost. https://www.rust911.com. With Rust911 you get a 1 gallon that dilutes to 16 gallons. It seems to be very similar to Evaporust, but not exactly. It seems to leave a little more of a insoluble black streaking coating on sheet metal parts than evaporust as it gets close to depleation, but other than that works great. I got a 45 gallon stock tank from Tractor Supply and put 32 gallons of rust911 in it to do engine block and other large parts. Plastic storage bins also work well to do heads and intake manifolds and such. I like this better than bead blasting because it does not round corners and such. Even more than that, It gets the rust out of the water passages.

[supersport#69]

I’m expecting my heads back from machine shop Wednesday so I may drop intake off Monday to get blasted. I figure I can paint heads and intake together by Thursday.
Barring anything unusual I’m hoping back together in about a week.

[Sirrotica]

Just watching a documentary on the Titanic tonight on restoring the metallic items salvaged from the wreck. They said the the electrolysis method outlined was the only method they were able to use to restore the metallic items brought up to the surface without destroying them, good to know.

[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by grandam1979

That would be a fun test I wonder what it would do for the inside of a valley pan?

Rust isn't typically the problem with the interior of a VP...it's all that baked on oil crud in those impossible to reach nooks and crannys.

[shermanator2]

Originally Posted by Sirrotica

Just watching a documentary on the Titanic tonight on restoring the metallic items salvaged from the wreck. They said the the electrolysis method outlined was the only method they were able to use to restore the metallic items brought up to the surface without destroying them, good to know.

Did they talk about Evaporust, Rust911, molasses, or other chelation processes? I have had very good experience with Evaporust and Rust911not touching the base metal or plating. They dissolve oxides of iron, including black oxide finish, but that is about it. The only time I would not use them is when I would be trying to save black oxide.

Electrolysis is good, but it is line of sight only, so it will not work well for thinks like blocks, heads, and intake manifolds that have internal passages that tend to rust.

[Sirrotica]

This was archaeological teams that routinely restore items that are underwater for centuries. It wasn't only ferrous items, there was tableware, and other everyday items that the team said could only be restored using the tiny hydrogen bubbles generated by electrolysis, used to gently scrub the items. They said that chemicals would have ruined the items.

I'm guessing they probably know a whole lot about restoration than a few car guys do about removing rust from old cars.

[Bill Eveland]

I used vinegar and water with great success., 10 parts water, 1 part vinegar. May have to let it sit for a few weeks and the rust will wash right off. Just need to dry it quickly as possible, it opens up the pores of the metal and surface rust will start very quick.

[dataway]

I've used electrolysis and have been very satisfied with the results. A bit messy but produces a good result if you don't want to damage the part. Evaporust also works wonders, but yeah, it's a little pricey to use in large quantity.

Electrolysis is kind of fun ... the sort of thing that has you looking around for other stuff to de-rust