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Old 05-15-2019, 06:34 PM
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Rich-Tripower Rich-Tripower is offline
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Default Heat riser gave up the ghost (64 389)

Luckily the butterfly works fine though the thing is a little loose in the bushings. Not going to bother messing with THAT. The bimetal spring, the original, broke off and left the butterfly flapping in the wind. The tension spring is still good.

What a chore it was to get the loose manifold out of the engine compartment! Wish it was more like my Chevys where the manifolds come straight off toward the fender. Anyway, got it out by puzzling it around. I see that the rear port was leaking a bit, the original style steel gasket didn't have enough give to seal it up. I'm going to try the "looks like steel" composite gaskets. It also had a poor seal at the head pipe, hope to improve on that when it goes back in. Wish Pontiac had used those donut gaskets at this junction or at least SOMETHING. Hopefully the headpipe can be turned slightly at the muffler to allow for a better fit to the manifold, it is off kilter by about 2-3 degrees making for a sloppy fit. If not, I'll have to try just a bit of that ceramic exhaust system sealer. If I get it down inside the bell of the headpipe it won't show.

I suppose while I'm at it I might as well change out the passenger side gasket as well, it is probably leaking too. But I've never heard the tick-tick-tick on that side that led me to this current little project. The engine is leaking a bit at either the front main or the oil pan which kind of sucks.

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Old 05-15-2019, 09:01 PM
John V. John V. is offline
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Bummer, if it was emissions related it might still have some warranty remaining. Your nearest Pontiac Dealer service manager should be able to help.

Is a close match repro spring available? Years ago I asked a guy to replace the spring on the HRV. '65 manifold I think. Anyway, he did but managed to crack an exhaust pipe flange bolt hole and the spring that he installed, while functional, didn't look anything like the original. I was very disappointed. Still have the manifold as a keepsake.

I was lucky, picked up a very nice '64 manifold from a member here maybe 2 years ago, It was in excellent shape with an original working HRV. In the car now.

  #3  
Old 05-15-2019, 09:41 PM
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Rich-Tripower Rich-Tripower is offline
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Ames states that the bimetal spring they sell is a little wider than the originals, but functions just the same. I can't imagine it will even be visible given where it is so I'm not real worried about it as long as it works properly. Now the thing might cold idle better and warm up faster. It has been horribly cold blooded ever since we got it running a few years back, now I have a clue as to why.

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Old 05-15-2019, 09:49 PM
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Better question: is there even room to drop the driver's side manifold with the steering shaft in the way? I guess all I need is room to pull out the gasket and insert a new one, but I'll be it is cramped on that side given what I dealt with on the passenger side. At least no power steering junk to get in the way.

EDIT: just looked at a few pictures, looks like just getting at some of the manifold bolts would be fun. Maybe I'll just leave the driver's side alone unless it starts to leak.

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Old 05-16-2019, 06:57 AM
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tempest1964 tempest1964 is offline
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What is it they say? If it ain't broke.....
Good luck Rich. Let us know if everything goes ok.

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Old 05-16-2019, 12:59 PM
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Just waiting for the parts to arrive from Ames at this point.

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Old 05-16-2019, 03:38 PM
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Best thing you can do is remove it completely. Choke function not noticeably affected. Heat risers were a problem on all cars.

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Old 05-20-2019, 02:58 PM
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Parts arrived today so we'll see how the re-install goes later this week. But contrary to what Ames said in their parts listing, these composite gaskets do not look like steel gaskets. I still would have used them since I need better sealing ability than the steel gaskets can provided (if I had a decent machine shop nearby anymore I'd have the manifold surfaced) but I was still expecting something that looked like steel. They ARE steel, but steel inside with composite material on both sides of the steel itself.

  #9  
Old 05-21-2019, 07:35 PM
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I got the manifold back on, no muss, no fuss other than I had to relearn that one of the manifold bolts is longer than the others. The new gaskets are pretty nice, I bet they seal up a lot better than the steel ones I had used originally. I didn't finish the job yet, I still have to install the exhaust pipe. I'll leave that for another day. Wish I had a lift.

Oh, double check me on something. I got the new heat riser spring on. It was pretty weak holding the butterfly closed unless I wound the spring one turn. I assume you have to wind the spring one turn when installing? I'll check it the first time it gets all warmed up I guess.

  #10  
Old 06-14-2019, 03:49 PM
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I FINALLY got around to finishing up this job. I decided to go ahead and do the driver's side gasket too. That was actually just as much work as I had to remove the Z-bar to get at a couple of the manifold bolts. I didn't drop the manifold altogether, just all the interior bolts as the gasket's outside bolt holes are slots, not holes. Had a little trouble getting it around the starter wiring tube but no biggie. It now runs without all that annoying ticking from a leaky exhaust.

When it was all said and done, I really had to manipulate the passenger side exhaust pipe to get it back on. It isn't quite formed for a perfect fit. When I got it to actually seal up at the manifold well, it now buzzes against the transmission cross member. Always something. I need to either slightly bend the pipe or wedge perhaps a small piece of wood in between the two, though I'd think that would fall out the first time I really rocked the engine. Wish I had a lift, bending the pipe a bit for enough clearance would be easy, harder to do with the car on jackstands and me lying on my back. I'll have to check into adjusting the whole hang of the pipe back at the muffler hanger. I just really need another 1/4" or so of clearance at the crossmember.

I should have had a custom built exhaust made instead of buying ready-made pipes.....

  #11  
Old 06-14-2019, 11:07 PM
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bill ryder bill ryder is offline
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Rich, here's your fix. Let's say we ALL call Gardner Exhaust and tell them we would like a correct system available!!! One where the head pipes have the flat area under the cross member for the clearance you need. And while we are asking, tell them you want mufflers with a galvanized skin, not aluminized. I would think they make their own mufflers. What the heck!!!!!!!!
I have a pair of head pipes I would send them to copy their pipes from. But we all need to let them know we want correct stuff. Not just close and fits, but correct.

I'm calling next week. anyone else???

"Bill"!

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