[fyrffytr1]

I am considering swapping my automatic transmission in my 67 GTO for a manual one. Besides a transmission, bell housing, clutch and pressure pate, flywheel .z bar and clutch pedal assembly what else will I need?

[ID67goat]

What transmission are you going with? Muncie, or modern transmission such as TKX?

Sounds like your list is pretty complete but you will also need a shifter, transmission tunnel sheet metal for the shift boot (for Muncie, etc), driveshaft, wiring etc. for backup switch ,clutch pushrod boot for firewall, possibly a crossmember..

That’s about all I can think of….sure I am missed something though..

[6d7gto]

Ball stud that screws into the engine block and the z shaped fork for the Z bar which is welded to the frame.

[Peter Serio]

To do it right you have to remove the LH front fender, at least the inner wheel house to get into the area where you need to weld a steel V-groove tab to the side of the frame rail.

That is what supports the opposite side of the round part of the Z bar. The other side rides on a HD threaded "post" that threads into the side of the engine block. Make sure your block has the threads. I think most, if not all of them where made; already threaded for a manual transmission but there always an odd-ball out there after 50+ years.

[fyrffytr1]

Thanks for all the helpful replies. This project is in the thinking about it stage right now. Pros are the wife won't be able to drive it and cons are the wife will be harder to deal with than the swap!

[400 4spd.]

I'll add that your TH400 yoke will not work with a Muncie. A TH350 yoke will. And throw in a manual console and manual brake pedal.

[MUSLCAH]

Then.....when you get that knee or hip replacement....your screwed...lol

No more drinking your Dunkn Donuts coffee while cruising down the road either....

[fyrffytr1]

Originally Posted by MUSLCAH

Then.....when you get that knee or hip replacement....your screwed...lol

No more drinking your Dunkn Donuts coffee while cruising down the road either....

If the times comes for me to have parts replaced I will pass my car onto someone who can treat her like I did.
I don't drink or eat in it while driving now. I do take my wife and our Yorkie for ice cream every Sunday and drive the goat when weather permits.

[b-man]

It’s a lot of work and somewhat expensive.

I’m seeing your wife doesn’t drive a stick.

If you were ever to get sick or become incapacitated in any way while you’re out together you have a bit of a problem if she’s not able to take over driving duties.

And to add to what MUSLCAH brought up plenty of older people convert their stick cars to auto in order to keep enjoying the ride far into their golden years.

[Goatracer1]

Don't forget a pilot bearing for the crankshaft.

[tom s]

I think I as driving a 2400 LB B&B clutch about 8 weeks after a total knee replacement!Got kicked out of PT 10 weeks after surgery as I had 90 percent range of motion back.At 79 I had to work hard at the PT and can be done.Dont give up on the stick.FWIW,Tom

[67Lemons]

I’ve been considering the same swap for a while now, having to weld the bracket on is one obstacle but also having to find a nice four speed console is the main thing that’s stopping me plus adding the hump in the tunnel (which can actually be screwed in if you don’t weld) & then changing the carpet. Every time I really think about it I talk myself out of it. Either way it’s expensive & requires a lot of parts.

[Goatracer1]

My first GTO was a factory 4 speed that came without a console. Another route to go.

[Joe]

doing this now on a 66 that was an auto. is your's column or floor shift auto? If column you would have to convert the column to get rid of the hub that houses the lever. Also, make sure the carrier that the pedals mount to will work. On a 66 the carriers were the same for either trans type. Not sure for 67. I am using an aftermarket Z bar. At least on the 66 units the ball stud bushings on the frame side do not seat well. ( the inner one). Making mods to that to get a positive stop. Also, the 2 arms are not extruded like an original. So I am tig welding shoulder to the arms for more surface area. For both rods. Maybe 67's are better. I have an original 67 z bar as reference for plug welding in the bushing stop. If I knew how to attach pictures from my phone would post some so you can see what I am doing. Some of this might apply if your using aftermarket stuff.

[MUSLCAH]

All that work....then you PHS docs don’t fit the car....but that might not matter to you.

In my case...swapping ovah to a 4 speed would be a sin...

[fyrffytr1]

Originally Posted by MUSLCAH

All that work....then you PHS docs don’t fit the car....but that might not matter to you.

In my case...swapping ovah to a 4 speed would be a sin...

It is not a numbers matching car to begin with. To be completely honest I doubt that this swap will ever happen. Just not wanting to admit that I cannot do it!

[krisr]

If you cannot get a 7109 bearing for the crank, you can use bearing retainer (green) loctite and put in a 6202 bearing. I just did this and it works fine. Forget a Z-bar, go with a hydraulic conversion from American Powertrain or Modern Driveline - I personally have the modern driveline system in mine and it's beautiful to drive. If you go with a Muncie, get Paul Cangialosi from Super661 to build you a Hurst shifter for it. I just did a clutch & linkage rebuild on my Muncie and it seriously drives and shifts like a single rail gearbox. It's so smooth and effortless to drive now. Ohyeah, Redline MTL oil is what I put into the box and it all works for me.