#41  
Old 09-13-2019, 10:56 PM
shoebox1.1 shoebox1.1 is offline
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Originally Posted by rohrt View Post
Instead of Chain or turnbuckle I wanted to use plastic coated aircraft cable with crimped ends. I haven't looked into it yet to see it would be practical.
I did this for years. It was awesome. Clear coated spiral cable with aluminum figure 8 “ crimps”. Got the whole thing at the good hardware store. Had just enough flex but locked solid on a 500hp sbc. Never saw any slip in the crimps

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  #42  
Old 09-14-2019, 07:51 AM
389 389 is offline
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Use a smooth idling cam, the car will be more fun on the street and usually faster..

  #43  
Old 08-20-2023, 10:37 PM
rohrt rohrt is offline
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Originally Posted by Tom Vaught View Post
I suppose you could weld on a boss.

I personally drilled a hole in the frame when the engine was out of the car and installed a RIV-NUT. RIV-NUT gets tightened and is a part of the frame now but with no welding and it is crimped on both sides of the frame.

Install the strap/chain/cable with a bolt and washer and you should be good to go. I installed a stud in the RIVNUT, loc-tited it in place and can slip the strap over the stud and add a washer and locknut on the outside and it is not going anywhere and it still has a slight amount of movement. Easy to remove too.

Tom V.

The early 2-Bolt Blocks are not too strong in the pan rail area/mount area, but a dual engine plate fixes that weak issue of the block, just like splayed caps on a non drilled two bolt main blocks is a better deal vs a drilled 4 bolt main block with 2 bolt main caps.

Tom V.
This part of the project has finally bubbled up to the top for me.

I put in a Riv Nut in the frame and now I'm looking for a spot on the motor to tie to.

There is one open spot on the head behind the power steering pump. Its pretty tights so I'm not sure it will work. I was also looking at the head bolt or exhaust bolt as an option.

I also noticed I have an open motor mount bolt hole, but you mention "2-Bolt Blocks are not too strong in the pan rail area/mount area" Not sure I'm interpreting your meaning correctly or not.

This is a 455 block with the 5 mounting holes. Its in a 68 bird so I'm only using two mounting points. This open mounting hole looks like a perfect spot.

  #44  
Old 08-20-2023, 11:06 PM
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Tom Vaught Tom Vaught is offline
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Go for it.

Tom V.

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  #45  
Old 08-21-2023, 01:42 AM
wakesupremo wakesupremo is offline
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Are there any pics of the plastic coated wire strap arrangement please. I would be interested to see how this has been done for my 600HP street/ strip firebird.

  #46  
Old 08-21-2023, 07:16 AM
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Old thread I know, but I've run the chain from the cylinder head to the frame rail on a couple cars. My 87 GN currently has one, and it definitely does its job.

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  #47  
Old 08-21-2023, 11:12 AM
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I thought I might need some type of torque strap for my motor, but I used these Butler mounts and I have virtually no movement of my motor regardless of condition (idle, WOT, hard shifts). They are almost like a solid mount. Still no transmitted vibration either. I'm pretty happy with them. Not a good option if your motor is already in your car, but if you have your motor out, it's something to consider.

https://butlerperformance.com/i-3164...tegory:1393551

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