#41  
Old 04-30-2018, 06:25 AM
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Check your oil filter.

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  #42  
Old 04-30-2018, 06:43 AM
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Yeah, I just changed the oil and I saved the oil filter and the oil. Didn't see anything in the oil that was concerning. I'll check the filter when I get home from work..

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Old 04-30-2018, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Formulas View Post
Looks like poly lock and rocker body interfearance, I have a set of those rockers the original poly locks cracked pretty easy when chinching them down

Took the rockers off got new polys never tried to use the rockers again

Mine however did not rub like this
Yeah, the poly locks are like a 1/4" too short, the hex portion ends up making contact on the rocker body. There was slight contact on a number of the rockers, only like 3 or so were actually gouged.

You can see too the set screws aren't all the way into the poly lock body, makes me a little nervous.

You can buy poly locks separately, but not sure manufacturers list lengths, so it would be a trial and error thing finding the right set. Not even sure it would be clear what length is needed, since it's like the threaded portion of the lock needs to be X from the bottom of the lock, then there's the overall length. And it needs to fit under kind of short valve covers too. Not sure if Harland Sharps fit under these covers either, been a while since I've actually seen a Harland Sharp rocker in person, and I've never used these cover.

I know the Crowers will fit, and will last forever, so, no biggie.

Thought for a sec that maybe the slot in the rockers could be clearanced, but it looked like it would require enough to where it would compromise integrity, so didn't even suggest it.

.

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  #44  
Old 04-30-2018, 04:55 PM
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Thanks HWYSTR455 for explaining this. This is way over my head! I do have a question for guys on the forum though. I ordered the Crowers from Jegs because on the website they said "the estimated shipping date" was May 10th which was 7 days before Summit. Jegs got my $587 and of course I got an email saying it "May" get shipped on May 28th. Any ideas where I can get this price and possibly get it quicker than Jegs.


https://www.jegs.com/i/Crower/258/73624-16/10002/-1

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Old 04-30-2018, 05:05 PM
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Believe it or not if it wasnt for my Summit card I would buy my stuff from Amazon. Usually cheaper anyway and they price match. Put the part number in the search bar, type Crower beside it and see what you come up with.

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Old 04-30-2018, 05:06 PM
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Nevermind they only have the chevy crowers

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  #47  
Old 04-30-2018, 05:19 PM
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If it was me........just turn the nut until everything clears.

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Old 04-30-2018, 05:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Va68goat View Post
Thanks HWYSTR455 for explaining this. This is way over my head! I do have a question for guys on the forum though. I ordered the Crowers from Jegs because on the website they said "the estimated shipping date" was May 10th which was 7 days before Summit. Jegs got my $587 and of course I got an email saying it "May" get shipped on May 28th. Any ideas where I can get this price and possibly get it quicker than Jegs.


https://www.jegs.com/i/Crower/258/73624-16/10002/-1
Butler may have them in stock?

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  #49  
Old 04-30-2018, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by TedRamAirII View Post
If it was me........just turn the nut until everything clears.
I don't know enough about this stuff to know if thats a safe idea or not. HWYSTR455 hasn't steered me wrong yet. He suggested these rockers and I pulled the trigger. Wish I would have ordered these at the time of the build...would have saved me some time.

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Old 04-30-2018, 07:03 PM
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Just so you guys know, these are the valve covers that I'm using and also the gaskets that were suggested to me.


https://butlerperformance.com/i-2445...rpc-s6520.html

https://butlerperformance.com/i-2445...spm-11765.html

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Old 04-30-2018, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Va68goat View Post
I don't know enough about this stuff to know if thats a safe idea or not. HWYSTR455 hasn't steered me wrong yet. He suggested these rockers and I pulled the trigger. Wish I would have ordered these at the time of the build...would have saved me some time.
His advice is best. But tightening the nut 1/6th of a turn to get the flats lined up isnt going to hurt anything. What kind of rockers are those? If they rub anyhow, that's not good.

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  #52  
Old 04-30-2018, 08:56 PM
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TedRamAirII,

Maybe Paul (gtofreek) or HWYSTR455 would know what kind of rockers these are. I really don't enough to even take a guess. I've spoken to a few guys that suggested the same as you did (tightening a 1/6th of a turn). I just don't want any issues in the future. I'm fortunate enough to just have them replaced. I think I would spend more time worry about it then just enjoying the car. It's going to be a fun street car, I just don't want to spend time worrying about something happening.

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Old 05-01-2018, 01:25 PM
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Some of that damage could be wrench marks. Have you verified clearance at max lift? The witness marks on the rocker bodies don't really match the profile of the polylock. In plain english, it doesn't look to me like the polylock is to blame for all those marks. Whatever the cause, the damage doesn't look serious enough to warrant replacing the rockers. I do agree that taller polylocks are required. The crower stainless enduros are great rockers, I use them. With that said, there is nothing wrong with swapping in taller polylocks on the existing rockers. The trunnion is about the only thing that can really fail on a quality rocker. If the trunnions are good on what you have, just get taller polylocks. It'd be a much cheaper solution.

I would not buy valve covers until you knew how tall the new polylocks were going to be when installed, with whatever lock/rocker combo you end up with. Also measure clearance under booster. The valve covers need to be tall enough to clear the locks, but short enough to fit under the booster.

I bought a beautiful set of finned cast aluminum V/Cs, that I couldn't use because they hit the booster. I sold them and bought cheap stamped units that fit, looked good and didn't leak.

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Last edited by chiphead; 05-01-2018 at 01:58 PM.
  #54  
Old 05-01-2018, 09:34 PM
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Thank you for the response Chiphead. Not too sure if they are wrench marks or not. As I mentioned before, I'm pretty new to these old cars and I'm sure learning a lot so responses like yours, I really do appreciate. Out of an abundance of caution, I went ahead and ordered the Crowers. I ordered them from Jegs but I learned that they were on back order. I took TedRamAirII advice and I called Butlers and they had them in stock so I cancelled the order to Jegs.

I'm sure there was a solution that I could have taken that would not have cost me $587.00 but being so new to cars, I wouldn't trust myself to do anything to that motor. I've done a lot on the car...more than I ever thought I would do but just to be safe, I'm willing to learn an expensive lesson.

I already have the valve covers. I posted the link to them along with the gaskets that was suggested to me. Paul reassured me that the Crowers will have no problem with these valve covers and gaskets. Can you identify what kind of rockers these are? I know the guy that I bought the car from had some good parts but a lot of his stuff was done half ass. I attached a picture where you can see that I have good spacing to the brake booster....I think!
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Last edited by Va68goat; 05-01-2018 at 09:57 PM.
  #55  
Old 05-01-2018, 09:46 PM
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Here's a better picture of the clearance between the booster and the valve cover.
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  #56  
Old 05-02-2018, 01:29 AM
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I'm real sorry about that Joe. Not sure how I missed that when I pulled the valve covers to look at things after the dyno.

Mike, thanks for helping Joe out. Let me know how I can make it up to you for your time and effort.

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  #57  
Old 05-02-2018, 08:03 AM
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Make no mistake Paul, I'm happy with the build. This problem will get resolved and I'll learn a little something in the mean time. I was speaking with Will this morning and he brought up a good point. He suggested that I adjust the poly lock so that it will clear, start the car and see if the knocking goes away. That way we know for certain that was the issue. What are your thoughts?

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Old 05-02-2018, 10:00 AM
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I know the pics aren't that good, but in person you can clearly see the witness marks, they line up with the locks. Even if you turn the nuts, they are close enough to where any movement will cause contact.

I see how it could be missed, its close, and it looks like they clear. But with the movement running, they contact, and not all the time.

No problem Paul, my pleasure, but if you want to make it up to me somehow, get your car on the road! Heheh!

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Old 05-02-2018, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
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*snip* Can you identify what kind of rockers these are? I know the guy that I bought the car from had some good parts but a lot of his stuff was done half ass. I attached a picture where you can see that I have good spacing to the brake booster....I think!
Those rockers are interesting, because they are die cast aluminum. I have not seen a set of those in person, or for sale from the popular Pontiac vendors. I imagine the were very cost effective and very light. The advantage would be reduced reciprocating weight. Downside is they are not as strong as more popular aluminum rockers.

Most of the aluminum body rockers (like Harland Sharp, Comp Gold, etc) are die extruded, CNC machined and then anodized. The die extruded rockers are going to be stronger than a cast aluminum rocker. There are differences in both the aluminum alloy and the grain structure of the extruded part, that will make it able to handle more spring pressure than a cast rocker, without failure.

The Crower steel enduros are even stronger than an extruded rocker, so it's a solid upgrade for your application. Compare the weight of the cast aluminum rocker to the Crower, you'll be surprised.

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2012...rm-technology/

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  #60  
Old 05-02-2018, 12:01 PM
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/Crane-1-65-...pa5bOg&vxp=mtr I think these may be them.

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