[MescaBug]

Having problems with cam break-in.. Its backfiring thru the carb, so I thought maybe its 180 degree off. Cam and crank gears are installed both at 12 o'clock.

Can anybody confirm, by the lifters and valves position, that I'm at #1TDC on compression stroke? #1 and #6 pistons are both at TDC.

Sounds simple, but I'm tired, and second guessing myself... We had all sorts of problems with this engine and I'm not sure of anything anymore.. We spent hours removing everything so we can have a look at the lifters/valves.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!

[6869GTO]

Your 180 off. Can see intake valve #1 about to open.

[6869GTO]

Rotate crank 1 turn and install distributor w/rotor pointing to #1 plug wire and you will be good.

[torqhead]

If I follow the pic correctly for the valves on cylinder 1, it looks like the cam is just about to open up the intake valve. So you do not have the motor at #1 TDC, you're 1 full rotation of the motor out. Turn it over once, point the mark at 12 degrees btdc, install distributor in and point it rotor at #1 plug and you should be good to go. Of course you need to time it once you get it running.

[grandam1979]

I’m with them 180° out

[Tom Vaught]

Very Common mistake, on Camshaft/Timing Gear changes, but easy to fix based on where you are right now.

Tom V.

[tom s]

I have posted this a few times when I have to do this by my self.Pull all plugs,put a cork in #1 plug holes,turn the engine over with a breaker bar untill the coke goes across the garage.Move it a touch to 12 degrees BTDC.Set the dist in with the rotor to number one wire.Snug it up but not tight.Put your timing light on it number one,rotate easy untill it flashes,lock it down and your good to go.Tom

[242177P]

Before going any further, remove these front core plugs!

[torqhead]

Originally Posted by 242177P

Before going any further, remove these front core plugs!

^^^^^ Nice catch!!! What he said!!!

[torqhead]

Originally Posted by tom s

I have posted this a few times when I have to do this by my self.Pull all plugs,put a cork in #1 plug holes,turn the engine over with a breaker bar untill the coke goes across the garage.Move it a touch to 12 degrees BTDC.Set the dist in with the rotor to number one wire.Snug it up but not tight.Put your timing light on it number one,rotate easy untill it flashes,lock it down and your good to go.Tom

^^^^ Great method when you can't see the lobes on the cam for sure!!!

[torqhead]

Originally Posted by 242177P

Before going any further, remove these front core plugs!

To add more context as you may not know, but those are the water jacket ports that the intake manifold flows water back to the radiator, etc.

[77 TRASHCAN]

Originally Posted by torqhead

^^^^ Great method when you can't see the lobes on the cam for sure!!!

Knowing that the intake valve has just closed, is something else to make a mental note of.

[MescaBug]

That confirms what I thought (180 degree off).

Thanks for all the comments, that really helps. Especially about the heads freeze plugs

I didnt even notice... I think I'll take the weekend off. I need to take my mind off this project. Too many careless mistakes.

[jeff chmura]

Another EZ way to do make the repair....
With the engine at TDC in the pics.... Take the distributor out and rotate the rotor 180 to the #6 spot, the distributor should drop back into place without having to mess with turning the oil pump drive....
Jeff

[steve25]

When you are at number 1 TDC the Exh valve of number 6 will be open.

If your timing mark is at TDC now just plop the distributor back in 180 out from where it was.
Those plugs left in would have been a disaster!!!

Also your valve springs, push rod guide plates , push rod ends and rockers look dry as a bone, so get a oil pump can and lube them up before they burn up !

[chuckies76ta]

Another tidbit of info, Shouldn't the heater hose from the cylinder head go to the bottom of the heater core? That way it forces any trapped air out of the core.

[MescaBug]

Originally Posted by chuckies76ta

Another tidbit of info, Shouldn't the heater hose from the cylinder head go to the bottom of the heater core? That way it forces any trapped air out of the core.

Yes, its fixed. Pics above are a few days old. Good catch though! The amount of knowledge on this forum and the quality of it is just incredible.

You guys really lifted my spirits up. I was fed up yesterday. I’ll get back to it tomorrow.

[grivera]

Where does the line under the radiator coolant lines go?

[pontorquer]

What # heads are these ?

[MescaBug]

Originally Posted by pontorquer

What # heads are these ?

7K3

Originally Posted by grivera

Where does the line under the radiator coolant lines go?

That's the evap line from the charcoal canister. The hard line stops just before it goes in the frame. Then its a rubber hose thru the frame, and then another hard line to the back.