Suspension TECH Including Brakes, Wheels and tires

          
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Old 08-01-2002, 10:08 PM
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I just put in a power booster in my 70 gto that was manual drum brakes and there seems to be a small problem with the pedal height. There are 2 holes in the pedal arm to connect the brake rod. I think i used to use the top one with the manual drums, while this one lines up with the bottom one, problem with that is the pedal sits closer to the floor than original and is far away from contacting the brake light switch. Am i supposed to change something here, different brake light switch bracket? wrong rod in my booster? This kit is out of an original gm car(not sure what exactly) and not a repo. thanks for the help in advance.

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1970 GTO 458 CID .040 over 4 Bolt 428 Block, Forged Eagle 455 Crank, 295 CFM SD KRE D-Ports, SD Old Faithful HR Cam + Comp HR Lifters, PPR Maxx-lite rods, Racetec pistons, PRW 1.65 SS Rockers, 900CFM Holley HP TBI, Performer RPM, Hooker Super Comps, 3" X-Pipe into 2.5" mufflers/tailpipes, 2.75 1st TH400, Continental 13" Converter, 8.5" 3.08 Posi.
Everything installed, fired up and tuning has begun!
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Old 08-01-2002, 10:08 PM
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I just put in a power booster in my 70 gto that was manual drum brakes and there seems to be a small problem with the pedal height. There are 2 holes in the pedal arm to connect the brake rod. I think i used to use the top one with the manual drums, while this one lines up with the bottom one, problem with that is the pedal sits closer to the floor than original and is far away from contacting the brake light switch. Am i supposed to change something here, different brake light switch bracket? wrong rod in my booster? This kit is out of an original gm car(not sure what exactly) and not a repo. thanks for the help in advance.

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1970 GTO 458 CID .040 over 4 Bolt 428 Block, Forged Eagle 455 Crank, 295 CFM SD KRE D-Ports, SD Old Faithful HR Cam + Comp HR Lifters, PPR Maxx-lite rods, Racetec pistons, PRW 1.65 SS Rockers, 900CFM Holley HP TBI, Performer RPM, Hooker Super Comps, 3" X-Pipe into 2.5" mufflers/tailpipes, 2.75 1st TH400, Continental 13" Converter, 8.5" 3.08 Posi.
Everything installed, fired up and tuning has begun!
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Old 08-01-2002, 11:18 PM
mike nixon mike nixon is offline
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there should be some adjustment in the rod between the booster and the brake pedal. try adjusting the rod and see if you can get nough distance from it. mike

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Old 08-05-2002, 07:35 PM
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I went back out and figured out the problem. As the rod did not have adjustment on it, I looked elsewhere. Turns out there is a different location to mount the brake light switch bracket for power disk brakes as opposed to manual. there are 2 different holes right below the original ones to move to for power disks which moves the bracket down but also angles it upwards to hit the pedal bar at a higher point, and after i did this the switch was aligned perfectly. The pedal now sits about 3/4 of an inch closer to the floor than from manual drums, but i did seem to think the pedal was unusually high when i drove it before. Hopefully this will help somebody else who might be questioning whats going on with a similar conversion.
Its alot more fun when things work out. [img]smile.gif[/img]

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1970 GTO 458 CID .040 over 4 Bolt 428 Block, Forged Eagle 455 Crank, 295 CFM SD KRE D-Ports, SD Old Faithful HR Cam + Comp HR Lifters, PPR Maxx-lite rods, Racetec pistons, PRW 1.65 SS Rockers, 900CFM Holley HP TBI, Performer RPM, Hooker Super Comps, 3" X-Pipe into 2.5" mufflers/tailpipes, 2.75 1st TH400, Continental 13" Converter, 8.5" 3.08 Posi.
Everything installed, fired up and tuning has begun!
  #5  
Old 08-10-2002, 10:29 PM
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I just got done putting the power brake booster back in my 69 TA. The print showed the called booster rod connecting to the lower hole on the brake pedal.

Additionally, it showed a reference dimension of 4.5" from the front upturned kick portion of floor pan to the of the brake pedal.

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