[ChrisTransAm78]

I am looking for a good combo for the engine trans, rear end to make this a VERY nice street car. I don't care about $ as it will take time to build anything...

Here's my assumptions/desires:
Stay with 400 block
Have manual trans (still need one!)
Stay with possibly the 10 bolt orig rear (gears?)
Rest well look at the website to see where I am at...

I assume that with a 9:1 CR or so and a supercharger or NOS with some nicely ported heads (alum ones or something like Edelbrock's) would get you to a nice 10 second w/o a problem? NOS scares me though so I don't really think I want to go there....plus the whine of a supercharger is really kinda kewl!

Oh yeah I basically plan on rebuilding my motor with a nice crank, new pistons, newer better rods all lighter and stronger to beef the bottom in hopes to not break stuff (any ideas?), then add newer top stuff like heads(edlebrock alum) intake etc. Maybe EFI? BTW thinking of 3:42(rear gears), and a Richmond 5 speed (since converting from auto to manual(orig car config))...any thoughts, greatly appreciated?

I really need assistance here. I plan on putting the rest of it back to stock look in the interior. The exterior will be stock in look if possible. Of course rear tires might be a bit bigger but etc etc... Its a project that I plan on having fun with... I want to drive the Fort Stockton race in Texas and go other places to do the same kinda thing. (Kinda have to have it built first.) Please lend me a hand with valuable info that can ease my mind in making these decisions! Many thanks! Email me if you have direct info (waveride@austin.rr.com) that'd you care not to share here. I won't share it if its your personal secrets! Thanks!

http://home.austin.rr.com/transam78/

[ChrisTransAm78]

I am looking for a good combo for the engine trans, rear end to make this a VERY nice street car. I don't care about $ as it will take time to build anything...

Here's my assumptions/desires:
Stay with 400 block
Have manual trans (still need one!)
Stay with possibly the 10 bolt orig rear (gears?)
Rest well look at the website to see where I am at...

I assume that with a 9:1 CR or so and a supercharger or NOS with some nicely ported heads (alum ones or something like Edelbrock's) would get you to a nice 10 second w/o a problem? NOS scares me though so I don't really think I want to go there....plus the whine of a supercharger is really kinda kewl!

Oh yeah I basically plan on rebuilding my motor with a nice crank, new pistons, newer better rods all lighter and stronger to beef the bottom in hopes to not break stuff (any ideas?), then add newer top stuff like heads(edlebrock alum) intake etc. Maybe EFI? BTW thinking of 3:42(rear gears), and a Richmond 5 speed (since converting from auto to manual(orig car config))...any thoughts, greatly appreciated?

I really need assistance here. I plan on putting the rest of it back to stock look in the interior. The exterior will be stock in look if possible. Of course rear tires might be a bit bigger but etc etc... Its a project that I plan on having fun with... I want to drive the Fort Stockton race in Texas and go other places to do the same kinda thing. (Kinda have to have it built first.) Please lend me a hand with valuable info that can ease my mind in making these decisions! Many thanks! Email me if you have direct info (waveride@austin.rr.com) that'd you care not to share here. I won't share it if its your personal secrets! Thanks!

http://home.austin.rr.com/transam78/

[77TA]

supercharging go 400 cid engine
NA go with stroker crank 462 cid
compression 9.5 Iron 10 to 10.2 Aluminum
solid or roller cam either way figure 240's intake duration to 250 with about .580lift
torker 2 intake Holley Hp carb
TKO or Richmond 5 speed
easy low 12 mid 11 sec car without NOS
expect the 10 bolt to live till you get it to hook then plan on upgrading.

Good luck !!!

[Goatman]

You'll want around 8-9 compression with a supercharger. Should be easy with E-heads and a hydraulic roller to get where you want to be. EFI is nice.

Dump the stick trans as it will break.....alot.

Dump the 10 bolt as it will break......alot.

TH400 and a 9" would be the choice for something that will see alot of abuse, ie, street driving.

Chance favors the prepared mind.

[Skip Fix]

Chris, alot depends on the MAIN inteded use especially for the drivetrain. Alot of drag racing with slicks and a stick you need some different tranny choices than a road course car. Jerico, Liberty tranny for those compared to a Richmond,TKO or Tremec etc for a road car.Tell about the Ft. Stockton race.May need a tranny cooler for a long race.
Clutch Centerforce or even a McLeod with the centrifigal assists like a Ford Long clutch. Those are adjustable.
Motor depends on that somewhat also. My thoughts on N20-only extra power at WOT and easy to run it lean and burn pistons, break rings etc.A 400 you can scream a little easier and easier on drivetrain than a 455 for a stick.428 in the middle.
Bigger will get you more bottom end torque but a tranny geared right will let you stay in your power band for a smaller motor.

400 block add 4 bolt main caps.400 crank, or a billet one if $$ are REALLY no concern, then even a custon stroke is available Ross or JE flat tops, lighter the better. Pin height depending on how exotic a rod length you decide on. 6.8 BBC are the longest "standard" rod out there. I know some Pontiac racers using a 7.0. Jury is still out on Total Seal rings vs just good moly rings file to fit. I'd look at what the NASCAR guys are doing.

Oiling system for road racing you'll need a good pan Canton probably maybe a Acusump. Bearing clearance another debatable deal, I'd stay 0.002-0.0025. Good Mellings pump and hardened drive.Cross drilling a 400 crank-not sure if it needed, may help.

Cam profile depending on the heads and particular power Adder. At least 240-250 @ 0.050 needed for the HP you are looking for. Its going to take RAIV or E heads to do it the easiest. 72cc E heads ported by one of the Pontiac guys like SD,KRE,Butler. Valve sizes 2.11/1.66 unless you want the max then guys are using 2.19/1.77s. Intake depemds on if a Shaker is to be used. RPM and one of the Blocker air cleaners will still work with a Shaker. TorkerII and a 3/8 spacer also will work. 750-850 dp Holley or Demon. Electric fuel pump like a Mallory 140.

Exhaust-1 7/8 -2" headers(Hedman or Hooker) for no power adder, 2" for sure with a power adder. 3" Dr. Gas X crossover into Torque Tech's 3" tailpipes. Walker Welded Ultraflows.

Chassis- for cornering -front springs around a 700-740 lb/in rate some older diesel S-10 are about right. 1-1/4 TA sway bar. Rear stock springs 5/8 rear sway bar. Bilsteins or Konis all around. Global West Del a lum bushings and subframe solid bushings all around. Be sure you roll bar has braces that tie to the front and rear spring pick ups and maybe cross brace between the long rear bars. A tube to the front frame or some bolt on braces like the old Herb Adams ones in front fron the firewall to front A arm bolt can help stiffen it also.

Rear end 10 bolt Eaton 30 spline posi and aftermarket axles. Can keep C clips if not drag strip launches, if more drag race weld on ends for taper or Ford bearings(Moser,Tom's differentials). C clip eliminators can't take side loads well and leak. Or just get one of Moser's 12 bolts that is a drop in for around $1700.

[Skip Fix]

Forgot tires and wheels at least 255x50x16 for cornering. 8" 1988 TA wheels from Classic Industries "fronts" fit great.

[ChrisTransAm78]

Anyone have any experience with Moser and their 12 bolts?

Thanks,
Chris

http://home.austin.rr.com/transam78/

[Brian Baker]

Craig Berkheimer has been running a Moser 12-bolt housing (and guts I presume) for about 2 years now in his 10 second Firebird. No failures.

$$$ is no object?

IA block punched and stroked to 500+ cubes.
Crower or Eagle rods.
Ross or JE pistons.
Wenzler Super Chief heads, ported/flowed to near 400-cfm.
Solid roller cam.
Weiand 8-71 supercharger setup.
Built TH400 transmission.
Built 12-bolt or Ford 9" or Dana rear.

Let's see, that'll put you somewhere around $25-$30 thousand dollars, give or take $5 thousand.

Let's be serious and talk about what your intended use of the car will be.

[ChrisTransAm78]

Ok Brian, your quite right. I could gold plate the motor too but I doubt that will happen in my life time...but it would be nice to know I could! Anyways I plan on (after talking to various) staying with the 400. Ok so let's restate the budget thing a bit closer to reality. Let's say 4-5K total. That's everything to make it run down to the starter etc. That gives a real goal that's attainable in a shorter time frame (35K well I'd have to wait fer quite sometime...). My plans are to run some road rally's (IE the Fort Stockton one here in TX and do some general pavement grinding against the ricers) Ok so in knowing that give it your best shot. Thanks again!

http://home.austin.rr.com/transam78/

[Brian Baker]

Might be able to build one with E-Heads (box stock one's).

Here's what I'd do.

400 block and 400 crank
bore block +.030"
Eagle rods
Forged pistons
Pump gas friendly d-ports ported to flow 250+ cfm
Hydraulic roller cam in the neighborhood of 240 degrees @ .050" with a wide lda
Performer or Performer-RPM intake
Tweaked Q-Jet

No reason why you couldn't put this together for $5000. Less if you assemble it yourself.

[Skip Fix]

The Moser 12 bolts are really well made. Better pumpkin strength than the old ones and come with welded on ends. Almost cheaper to buy one of theirs as to buy an old one and upgrade it to the same specs.Old housing, Welded tubes ,ends, axles, set up spool around $1200 . New Moser one $1600-1700 you decide the better deal.

You'll need the welded ends for cornering loads and not just C clip eliminators.Tom's Diffs says his wled on end bearings(Ford 9" type) are better than Mosers, I'm not an expert there though.

[ChrisTransAm78]

Thanks for the advise on the engine and rear ends. I am talking to both Moser and Currie now to see who I go with. Will post it on the website when I get it. Can't wait!

http://home.austin.rr.com/transam78/

[Brian Baker]

DO NOT INSTALL A SPOOL IF YOU INTEND THIS TO BE A STREET VEHICLE !!!

Having a spool in a car for the occasional jaunt to the local crusie spot on a Saturday night is one thing. Having one in there that will see more highway miles is a no-no.

[ChrisTransAm78]

I plan on going with an Eaton unit. I heard it does not chirp and chatter around corners. Anyone?

http://home.austin.rr.com/transam78/

[Skip Fix]

You can get 33 spline Eaton type posi-s for 12 bolts. Tom's Diffs and US Gear have them.That and 33 spline axles will definitely be a bulletproof setup.

[ChrisTransAm78]

Well I went crazy today and bought the Currie 9in, disc brake setup and all. Kinda scary when it aint OEM and your hoping it all installs right. Should be here in 3 weeks. Went with 3.50 and a TSD limited slip diff, 31 spline and a alloy pinion support. Went with the Currier cause it was cheaper than Moser and the 9in is as I am told easier to change gears in should I need to. This project gets hairier each day! Anyways I am on to paint selection now since I need to get the interior ready to spray so I can bolt the heater and stuff back in. Anyone know where I can get a good color selector for cars? Or is it hey I like this paint, can you make something like it?

http://home.austin.rr.com/transam78/