[Double A]

On a '68 LM, will a non-a/c blower motor housing fit where a housing with a/c was mounted? If not, what kind of alterations am I looking at?

All wisdom appreciated, A.A.

[Double A]

On a '68 LM, will a non-a/c blower motor housing fit where a housing with a/c was mounted? If not, what kind of alterations am I looking at?

All wisdom appreciated, A.A.

[JC455]

A.A.,
If it's anything like every other GM I've ever dealt with (and I'm sure it is), the cases will be completely different.
I tried to do this on a 1st and 2nd Gen F-bird- no go.
The A/C "suitcase" is very large- it's designed to house an evaporator, whereas the non A/C is just a duct to push air through. The non A/C cars gather their air from cowl vents and the air goes straight to the vents in the kick panels (I'm sure someone will go into the finer points of A/C air control if you need help, so I'll just stay with this for right now).
Now, your problems happen because:
1) The A/C system has a duct that diverts
hot/cold air into the plenum for distribution, but the non air cars only run air to the heater core.
2) The large hole for the A/C diverter flap will not be covered by the small non air cover
3) The holes for the non air box will not line up with the "suitcase" mounting holes.

What I did was cut (well, actually someone broke it) the suitcase down to a level I felt was adequate enough to pass a large volume of air through. Then I used a piece of cardboard to fill the gap across the front and fiberglassed the cardboard to the suitcase. After some sanding and painting you couldn't tell it wasn't a factory item.
By doing it this way, I still had a heater and a fresh air vent. Of course I removed all the a/c parts I didn't need.
Now granted, this is not the best method to convert to non air, I just didn't feel like doing a factory-non air-resto job.
I hope this helps you, if you have any questions, please post them. I'll try to clear any confusion I may have created.


------------------
John

[Double A]

Thanks, John---I'd been waiting for a reply from someone who had dealt with this. I do have the original a/c "suitcase", and I'm very interested in the details regarding where to cut it and fiberglass a new partial housing end. I'd like to keep the fresh air and heat as you evidently have. I'm intrigued by the use of cardboard as well.

I think further details you can give us would also interest those who do not want to spend that kind of $$$ in trying to save a bulky old a/c unit in a cramped A or F body engine bay...

[jnyeager]

Hey Double-A, you should sell that entire A/C setup as a unit and it will fund all the parts you need to convert to non-air. You can get the non-A/C blower boxes repo, but not the A/C ones. There is a running series of articles in High-Performance Pontiac that is covering the restoration of a 2nd Gen firebird. They are converting this car also. 1 or 2 issues ago, they covered the welding in of some sheet metal to close off the A/C hole.
You can try to modify your existing box to deal with this, but selling it in tact would net you some money (I bought the small half of the box for $40, the whole thing could go for $100.) Of course that doesn't pay for the sheetmetal work you would otherwise need unless you are restoring the whole car anyway.

J.Y.

[JC455]

AA,
I didn't have much choice- the box was broken, so I cleaned it up and made a template out of cardboard. I then trimmed it until it fit just right and used some glue to hold it. I then coated the outside with fiberglass/resin and let it dry. I did the same to the inside of the box, applied some paint, resealed it and-voila- instant small box that looked factory.
As for your setup, I'd try score another box from a junkyard car (I think F bodies might be the same) so then you don't jack up your original- just in case you someday decide to go back to air (you never know).
Regardless of what you decide, trim the box down so only about 4 inches sticks off the firewall (trim more if you need more clearance/aren't pleased with the look), then do as I said with the cardboard and 'glass.
Pop it all back together (now would be a good time to change the heater core) and away you go.
Oh, just curious- my LM is a 68. It started as a 350/2bl, 2spd auto, air, buckets, console, ps, manual drums and no vinyl top.
I spotted another one today, but it origianlly <had> a vinyl top- looks like the guy already had some rust experience with it- it was all primed for paint and no new top.
How's your loaded and what all have you done to it?
Later-


------------------
John

[Double A]

Hey, thanks for asking, John.
I picked up my '68 LM last year for $500; it had about a million miles on it and it showed. But, it did have front discs, and a bucket seat/floorshift interior that was still recognizable. And it had Rallye II's with two extra (and a cracked '67 console) in the trunk. The a/c was long gone, but someone had put a very-rebuildable 455 in it, along with a 12-bolt (posi) out of who knows what.
So now the motor's ready and I'm doing the front end and steering right now.
Objective is street and weekend fun. Hopefully driveable again this summer...
Any suggestions/opinions/questions...?
Thanks, A.A.

[This message has been edited by Double A (edited 04-11-2000).]

[JC455]

Yeah, I know we're really veering off the original post, but this is interesting...
It sounds like loike you got yourself one heck of a deal. I bought my LM for $800.00 in a 208,000 mi condition. It now has 233,000 + miles and is the family car. I yanked the 350 and dropped a 455 in it. I still have to put a 400 (or an OD unit- killer mileage)in it. I started collecting the parts to adapt 78 T/A discs on it. I have everything to rebuild the frontend except the upper tubular A-arms, springs, lower rubber bushings and outer tie rods. I'll get the suspension bushings locally- in fact, I'm thinking of changing the upper poly bushing back to rubber. I know it sounds counterproductive, but I like a supportive-yet givable ride. I used Hotchkis springs- very nice and they dropped the car SLIGHTLY (actually they raised the rear 2 inches- how's that for spring sag??!). I like the response of a fast ratio steering box coupled with large swaybars, so I scored the bar off a T/A and will probably use the T/A box as well.
I think nothing is as much fun as slamming into a corner under full throttle, and ripping out the other side, as the uninformed stare in amazement.
If you are into handling, you can use some of what I suggested/used on my car. If you're after a drag suspension, that'll take a slightly different approach.
I recommended a steering box to Tom McQueen for his '70 GTO. I haven't heard if he has tried it out yet, but it sure was spec'd killer (12:1 high effort a la WS-6 T/A), but it has the stops for an A Body.
I would highly suggest that you rebuild everything in the front end. PY sold me the drag link, idler arm and tie rods DIRT CHEAP.
Talk at ya later,


------------------
John