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#1
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How do you seal gaskets? A little poll
A general question on how you use gasket so that they seal. For years any coolant gasket like water pump, water neck etc, I thinly butter one side with Permatex silicone and then apply the gasket. Sometimes I butter both sides. I've had a lot of problems with oil gaskets like on my 55 Ford tractor. The valve cover and side cover(pushrod cover) leak oil like crazy. They are cork gaskets. Maybe I over tightened them, I'm not sure.
1)What do you do with coolant gaskets? 2)What do you do with oil gaskets?
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If someone else can design it, I can sure figure out how to fix it. |
#2
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Quote:
Valve covers and other sheet metal parts are susceptible to warpage from over tightening and this causes most leaks in these cases. Cork gaskets will harden over time and then leak. I like to use rubber on my valve covers. When I cant straighten the valve cover and can't replace it I will use RTV to set the gasket into the cover and after it sets up I install it on the machined surface without RTV. A good read on sealing Pontiac Engines: http://www.pontiacstreetperformance.com/psp/Sealit.html
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Karl |
#3
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I'll butter up both sides of a coolant gasket (WP, thermostat, intake crossover) and let it set up a little bit.
For stuff like pan gasket, valley cover, or valve cover I use a smeared bead of Permatex on one side only. I "glue" the gasket to the valve cover, etc., leaving the block side bare so I can remove the component in the future.
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#4
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wtr pmp Indian head to the pump/ peramtex#2 to divider/indy head to divider,#2 to cover
thermostat-indy head to housing and #2 to intake oil pan gasket ultra black to pan, #2 to block #2 on radiator hose connections so far so good my
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#5
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Places:
1) I put a very light dab or two of Permatex on the water pump gasket and divider plate solely to hold it all together as I assemble it. No fun fighting all 4 pieces and bolts leaning over the engine in the car only to have the gasket rip or slide out (and leak!). 2) Apply a slight bit to the thermostat gasket (thermostat housing side) and let it tack up. 3) Put a bead at the triple point between the oil pan, block, and timing cover on both sides of the engine (factory did it this way). Other than that, no sealer or gasket maker anywhere else - this is assuming using a cork valley pan gasket, I'm thinking I might try using just a bead of Permatex on my next engine as the factory started doing this in the early '70s. I also like the rubber valve cover gaskets too, the cork ones always seem to leak for me. So far my engines don't leak either, proper surface prep and cleanliness seems to keep the engine from needing sealer everywhere. |
#6
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I've seen more harm than good over the years by the excessive use of sealant. For cardboard gaskets (t state, water pump) lite silicone (the black GM stuff or the grey stuff) very thin coat each side, let set up ten minutes or so, and install not too tight. The main cause of leaks is overtightening and distorting sealing surfaces. On a trans pan gasket or valve cover gaskets, no sealer, just a few dabs of grease to hold the gasket in place. Oil pan, sealer only at the corners. The worst of all is the use of the yellow 3m weatherstrip adhesive to glue gaskets in place. It leaks and will have to be ground and chiseled off. Old school Gaskasinch gasket cement has its uses, too and is good stuff.
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Jeff |
#7
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Paper/fiber gaskets on machined surfaces = high tack (either spray/brush) -or- Hylomar.
Cork gaskets (valve covers or valley pan) = red RTV or right stuff on one side to glue it down,and maybe a dab in any corners/joints. Oil pan,dont use cork ones anymore,only the fiber ones = same as above (high tack/hylomar) w/ red RTV or right stuff used in the corners/joints and to glue down the thick cork rear pan seals I use. Red RTV -or- ultra copper RTV for exhaust usage w/ or w/o gaskets (steel core fel-pro or such). Permatex Copper coat for some headgaskets. Also keep some Permatex aviation around too for specific "odd jobs". So basically my sealant "kit" contains. High tack both spray & brush on. Hylomar. Red RTV. Ultra copper RTV. Right stuff. Permatex aviation. Permatex Copper coat. Those products cover 99.5% of any gasket sealing needs IME. HTH Bret P. |
#8
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I only use 2 types of gasket sealer. Depending on the application or surface.
Copper Coat and Permatex Grey silicone. Oh and Permatex high tack brush on for freeze plugs, cam plug, threaded plugs. |
#9
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This might be a little blasphemous but after noticing my Honda with 263,000 miles and not a drop of oil leaking, I started using the Honda OEM sealant. I wouldn't use it on something you will remove such as valve covers but for oil pans, valley covers, and coolant gaskets it seals tight.
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#10
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Try the sealers made by Mercury Marine or Evinrude. Very similar to each other. Excellent when removing gaskets also. They come off in one piece. You can also use it on thru bolt threads, or any bolts. Won't harden. If it gets too thick just add some alcohol to thin it a little. I've used it the last 30 years on Porsche's, outboards, and V8's. Machines surfaces should be sealed with Loctite products, like 574 red or orange, or 573 anaerobic green. Not too many places these can be used on older engines though. They also make the best anti corrosion grease ever.
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