[Jay S]

I think the guys that expect the LS lifters (actually mine are Gen 2 SBC lifters)to perform and last like they do in OEM HR engines are really asking a lot. I don’t plan on going past 20k on mine, could it go 50k mile….sure, 100K, 200k, 300k, definitely not. I think the combination of the narrow contact area of the lifters below the bottom of the oil band will pretty much egg out the bottom of the lifter bore from the roller cams side loading on the lifter bores. My HR set up like your contemplating only has .316” lobe lift, to keep the base circle bigger, and keep lifter as high in the bore as possible. Even with only .316” lobe lift, it barely has any contact area at the bottom of the lifter bores. You could possibly run about a .36” lift cam on some blocks, but it will be really really really hard on the bottom of lifter bores.

For a roller set up I would run an aftermarket valley tray and link bars and paint the tray. I just am not in agreement with the guys that think that LS lifter with dog bones is going to be a better solution than a link bar set up. The only attractive thing to me is the 2148 lifters are cheap, they have a different metering system some find attractive, and it would fit under the stock valley tray.

[Nobuddy]

Are there are any aftermarket valley pans that will clear the EGR manifold? Assuming the OEM pan cannot be made to clear link bar lifters.

Thread is interesting to me as I still have the original block and heads for my '74. I replaced it 40 years ago but considering rebuilding and getting it back in the car. So I have similar curiosities about cam and compression choices.

For Stan, what rear gear and transmission are in this car? If auto are you going with the stock converter? Although I guess it may not matter a lot with something in the 067 or 068 range.

Barry

[Skip Fix]

Stan Algon injectors?

Jardine tri ys when they were still making them

[Stan65]

NoBuddy,

308 auto with stock stall as original. As far as the EGR valley pan. I have seen 1 guy beat the crap out of the bottom (I would section and weld myself) and another modified the intake on bottom and plugged ports to be able to use the aftermarket valley pan.

Skip Fix,

Yes Algon large port. Have everything to go mechanical. Planning on EFI sometime when I get a chance. Lol.

[Jay S]

There isn’t an aftermarket valley tray for those deep EGR setups that I can think of. There are options for 75 and later, those clear on some aftermarket trays.

Too clear the stock tray for link bars they hit on the edged right where the splash tray is spot welded to the top outside of the tray. Which isn’t easy to modify, and if you goof at all you’ll be looking for another one, and they are not easy to find any more.

On the 74 EGR we did, the exhaust cross was blocked off, then we removed the EGR well under the manifold. You can use what ever cover you want then. I don’t remember what I did on the intake port side to EGR, I think I weld them shut. Been to long. Lost a lot of weight though, that sucker was heavy!

The best option might be to remove the bottom splash tray, weld on a little splash guard underneath the PVC. (Butler has something like that on some of their trays). Then use sealer on the tray instead of a gasket. Without the bottom splash tray on the tray it is to flimsy to hold down a stock style valley tray gasket. But something like The Right Stuff Permatex gasket maker will work fine by itself, and probably leak less than the factory gaskets did, and it still would look completely stock.

[Skip Fix]

Close buddy has a Hilborn stack EFI on his 68 Charger, Holley system runs it. had to do a lot of tinkering and make some new linkage for it. some different length stacks too.

Been into Ws since my first car '70-71.

[Skip Fix]

And Dave at SD had a CNC program for 409 E heads!

[PAUL K]

Originally Posted by Stan65

Paul,

I’ve spent the last 15 years living the “W” life. Lol

A couple quick 4X questions.

Anyone know a maximum safe be distance you can cut the spring seats if I need too? Also how deep is the induction hardening on the seats?

Thanks again and another couple pics of my 09’s

Those are some cool projects. They look great.

Plenty of room on the spring pockets..... .250 plus thick.

I "greened" the hardened part of the seat on a 4X head we sectioned. We usually use a 1.71 valve they work better all the way around and are commonly available.

The discontinued original Crane lifters have a chance to clear the valley pan with a small cam. Sometimes they pop up on E'bay

[Stan65]

Thanks for all the info so far everyone!

Finished cleaning and magnafluxing the heads and block. All checked good.

Heads are In amazing condition. Guides are still in tolerance. Seats look good also. Will just have to setup and just touch them. I ordered Ferrea valves, F5079-8 and F5143-8. Will cut the exhaust for positive seals, set springs up, slight pass on the decks, and the heads will be good. At this point not cutting extra for compression.

On the block, did a rough bore on the “worst” cylinder due to rust pits. Cut it to 4.176. Can just make out the pits. Looks like 4.181 is a go. Now time to start piston shopping. Once I mock it all up, we will deal with the deck height to set quench.

Working with Lee on a cam, blanks seem to be non existent right now.

Once I get the block home, I’ll start working out the cam/lifter setup. I will have to determine what will work best, dog bones or link bars / valley pan modifications.

Just wanted to give an update.

[PAUL K]

Your in good hands with Lee. He has a lot of first hand knowledge in what actually works and doesn't.

Cores are hard to come by but they are out there.... There are several small grinders that you might want to check with. We got our last few from a company called Custom Cams. There is also another that bought all of John Reed's old equipment and masters. I can't recall their name but if you start calling around you'll find them.

[Jay S]

Lee will set you up good on the cam.

You should consider working with Paul K on your pistons. Autotec. You can adjust the compression height to zero or negative deck without any special machining. Paul also is about the only one I have seen that deleted the valve reliefs on a low compression 455 to maximize the compression for the combination. I don’t recall which engine it was that he did that on. I think it was a 455SD. Taking 5 or 7 cc off the compression volume can make a pretty big difference in making the compression more what it needs to be and not milling and decking. The small cam that is going to be in this, with those 4X heads that deep chambers have more valve to piston clearance, you really don’t need valve reliefs. Jmho

[steve25]

Paul thanks for the Termites view!

[PAUL K]

Originally Posted by steve25

Paul thanks for the Termites view!

YW ...... Here's a few of the intake.