[1bad65]

QQ for you guys. The machine shop who rebuilt my engine primed the lifter valley and inside the top of the heads. My concern is that over time the primer will come off and end up clogging the oil pump screen. Am I overreacting or should I remove as much primer as I can? Thanks.

[Sirrotica]

Are you sure it's primer, and not Glyptal paint used to seal cast iron surfaces?

Years ago it became a prepartion for mostly performance engines to seal the insides of the block, and heads with GE glyptal paint to stop any casting sand still embedded in the iron from coming loose, and possibly causing damage to internally lubricated engine parts. The Glyptal paint forms a slick surface, and also promotes oil drainback faster.

Ask the shop if it is indeed paint, and not primer. The most common color used inside engines is red oxide color, so I can see why it may be mistaken for primer.

Here is a block that has been painted:



I have several blocks that I painted with Glyptal paint internally, One I had hot tanked, and the majority of the paint even survived hot tanking. I wouldn't worry about it coming off as long as it's Glyptal, and it was applied to clean metal.

After I graduated from high school (1970) I got a job working at the GE locomotive plant in my hometown of Erie PA. GE casts, machines, assembles, and dyno test runs their locomotive engines in the Erie plant. The internal surfaces of all their engines are painted before they're assembled, as long as the paint isn't painted over oil, it adheres just fine. They've been doing it for over 5 decades, so it's a proven process.

[Dragncar]

Painting the insides of a block with red Rustolium used to be a thing.
PAW sold engines with it sprayed on.
PAW, Jegs and Summit before Jegs and Summit.
You could buy "Pink" rods and even a 4 bolt BBC with rectangular port heads with a blower on top.
All kinds of cool stuff.

[steve25]

If it’s not Glyptal or self etching primer I would have the shop remove it, and preferably by glass beading which then means that the motor can not be in a assembled state and all the oil passage plugs must be out of the motor.

Also even with self etching primer if there was any rust under it then that will be a disaster in a given amount of time!

[1bad65]

Originally Posted by Sirrotica

Are you sure it's primer, and not Glyptal paint used to seal cast iron surfaces?

Years ago it became a prepartion for mostly performance engines to seal the insides of the block, and heads with GE glyptal paint to stop any casting sand still embedded in the iron from coming loose, and possibly causing damage to internally lubricated engine parts. The Glyptal paint forms a slick surface, and also promotes oil drainback faster.

Ask the shop if it is indeed paint, and not primer. The most common color used inside engines is red oxide color, so I can see why it may be mistaken for primer.

Here is a block that has been painted:

I have several blocks that I painted with Glyptal paint internally, One I had hot tanked, and the majority of the paint even survived hot tanking. I wouldn't worry about it coming off as long as it's Glyptal, and it was applied to clean metal.

After I graduated from high school (1970) I got a job working at the GE locomotive plant in my hometown of Erie PA. GE casts, machines, assembles, and dyno test runs their locomotive engines in the Erie plant. The internal surfaces of all their engines are painted before they're assembled, as long as the paint isn't painted over oil, it adheres just fine. They've been doing it for over 5 decades, so it's a proven process.

Thanks for your response. Although I've never physically seen it, I've heard of Glyptal paint, and this doesn't look like it. It may be some other kind of paint, but I really think this is primer as they painted the entire engine with it. I soaked a rag with xylene and after a few rubs it comes off, hence my concerns. The engine was built by a reputable machinist who since retired, and the shop was closed. I had the motor built 15 years ago and life took over so I'm finally getting to it. Good news is that it sat in a temperature-controlled garage and I turned it several times a year. Let me know your thoughts and thanks again for the information. Here's a pic.

[1bad65]

Originally Posted by Dragncar

Painting the insides of a block with red Rustolium used to be a thing.
PAW sold engines with it sprayed on.
PAW, Jegs and Summit before Jegs and Summit.
You could buy "Pink" rods and even a 4 bolt BBC with rectangular port heads with a blower on top.
All kinds of cool stuff.

Appreciate your response.

[1bad65]

Originally Posted by steve25

If it’s not Glyptal or self etching primer I would have the shop remove it, and preferably by glass beading which then means that the motor can not be in a assembled state and all the oil passage plugs must be out of the motor.

Also even with self etching primer if there was any rust under it then that will be a disaster in a given amount of time!

I was thinking the same but this is an older build and the shop has since closed. I may have to bite the bullet and hand clean it as best as possible, and change the oil more than often. Thanks for responding.

[78w72]

Definitely not glyptal paint, you can see it flaking or peeling off some of the lifter bores already. I would use some lacquer thinner or other product to remove as much of it as you can.

Also, that cam looks very dry now that its sat for years & been turned over a bunch of time... be sure to apply some cam lube all over the cam/lifters before sealing it up, then oil prime it before starting & use a good cam break in additive.

[Skip Fix]

Originally Posted by Dragncar

Painting the insides of a block with red Rustolium used to be a thing.
PAW sold engines with it sprayed on.
PAW, Jegs and Summit before Jegs and Summit.
You could buy "Pink" rods and even a 4 bolt BBC with rectangular port heads with a blower on top.
All kinds of cool stuff.

Yep and on Chevy motors the timing chain area also.

[1bad65]

Originally Posted by 78w72

Definitely not glyptal paint, you can see it flaking or peeling off some of the lifter bores already. I would use some lacquer thinner or other product to remove as much of it as you can.

Also, that cam looks very dry now that its sat for years & been turned over a bunch of time... be sure to apply some cam lube all over the cam/lifters before sealing it up, then oil prime it before starting & use a good cam break in additive.

Yep. Good thing is it's not very thick and rubs off with some thinner and elbow grease. Appreciate the guidance.

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by Dragncar

Painting the insides of a block with red Rustolium used to be a thing.
PAW sold engines with it sprayed on.
PAW, Jegs and Summit before Jegs and Summit.
You could buy "Pink" rods and even a 4 bolt BBC with rectangular port heads with a blower on top.
All kinds of cool stuff.

Yup, I have a PAW engine here that I bought around the mid 90's with that stuff, still running today and still all intact.

[68WarDog]

[QUOTE=Sirrotica;6484818]Are you sure it's

I have several blocks that I painted with Glyptal paint internally, One I had hot tanked, and the majority of the paint even survived hot tanking. I wouldn't worry about it coming off as long as it's Glyptal, and it was applied to clean metal.


This Glyptal has been in the block since the early 90s per RHS of TN.

[Tim Corcoran]

Originally Posted by 78w72

Definitely not glyptal paint, you can see it flaking or peeling off some of the lifter bores already. I would use some lacquer thinner or other product to remove as much of it as you can.

Also, that cam looks very dry now that its sat for years & been turned over a bunch of time... be sure to apply some cam lube all over the cam/lifters before sealing it up, then oil prime it before starting & use a good cam break in additive.

Using a ZDDP additive in with your high detergent oil for break in is not a good idea. If the cam was going to fail the damage is already happening within the first 1 or 2 minutes after start up and the additive may be still laying in the bottom of the oil pan. Also detergent oil is not recommended for break in especially for a flat tappet cam. There are companies that make a specially formulated break in oil that is non detergent and has the extra ZDDP package. Joe Gibbs Driven makes a good break in oil and there are others too. The reason detergents are not good for break in is because they tend to prevent the ZDDP from adhering to critical surfaces and tend to wash it away. It is not a new thing. Non detergent oil for break in has been around since the 50's and maybe even before that. Surprisingly many are still not aware.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=teDgJgPeeeU

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-t...lly-help/53663

https://blog.amsoil.com/why-you-shou...rts-equipment/

https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2019/08/break-in-oils/

https://butlerperformance.com/i-3164...html%3Fq%3Doil

[Sirrotica]

There is one You Tube video that a guy wanted to know what would happen inside of an engine with Glyptal paint. He tried about 20 different componds that could possibly come in contact with the oil. Wiping it with Xylene isn't proof of anything though, because you're not going to find Xylene in your oil.

Anything that has alcohol in it acted as a solvent, and most fuel system cleaners would also disolve it along with DOT 3 brake fluid. I have an engine that was painted internally with it, and run on dirt tracks for 3 seasons. Hot tanking it did remove some of it, and I recoated it after the hot tanking. I've had the oil pan off of it numerous times, with no evidence of the coating failing.

Here's a link to the You Tube video where he tests what solvents will remove it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=On7g...el=Jafromobile

From this test I wouldn't use it on any engine that was run on pure methanol, ethanol, or E-85. Gasoline didn't seem to have any effect on it.

If you want to remove it from your engine, paint remover will probably be the best solvent to use. It's going to require disassembly though, and you're going to have to start over again with assembly of the parts. Likely it's going to be fairly simple if all the clearances have been set previously.

[1bad65]

[QUOTE=68WarDog;6484901]

Originally Posted by Sirrotica

Are you sure it's

I have several blocks that I painted with Glyptal paint internally, One I had hot tanked, and the majority of the paint even survived hot tanking. I wouldn't worry about it coming off as long as it's Glyptal, and it was applied to clean metal.


This Glyptal has been in the block since the early 90s per RHS of TN.

It's def not Glyptal, I got the majority of it off with thinner and some elbow grease. Thanks for the input.

[1bad65]

Originally Posted by Tim Corcoran

Using a ZDDP additive in with your high detergent oil for break in is not a good idea. If the cam was going to fail the damage is already happening within the first 1 or 2 minutes after start up and the additive may be still laying in the bottom of the oil pan. Also detergent oil is not recommended for break in especially for a flat tappet cam. There are companies that make a specially formulated break in oil that is non detergent and has the extra ZDDP package. Joe Gibbs Driven makes a good break in oil and there are others too. The reason detergents are not good for break in is because they tend to prevent the ZDDP from adhering to critical surfaces and tend to wash it away. It is not a new thing. Non detergent oil for break in has been around since the 50's and maybe even before that. Surprisingly many are still not aware.

https://butlerperformance.com/i-3164...html%3Fq%3Doil

Thanks Tom, I will note this for when it's time for break in.

[1bad65]

Originally Posted by Sirrotica

There is one You Tube video that a guy wanted to know what would happen inside of an engine with Glyptal paint. He tried about 20 different componds that could possibly come in contact with the oil.

Anything that has alcohol in it acted as a solvent, and most fuel system cleaners would also disolve it along with DOT 3 brake fluid. I have an engine that was painted internally with it, and run on dirt tracks for 3 seasons. Hot tanking it did remove some of it, and I recoated it after the hot tanking. I've had the oil pan off of it numerous times, with no evidence of the coating failing.

Here's a link to the You Tube video where he tests what solvents will remove it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=On7g...el=Jafromobile

From this test I wouldn't use it on any engine that was run on pure methanol, ethanol, or E-85. Gasoline didn't seem to have any effect on it.

If you want to remove it from your engine, paint remover will probably be the best solvent to use. It's going to require disassembly though, and you're going to have to start over again with assembly of the parts. Likely it's going to be fairly simple if all the clearances have been set previously.

Thanks for the valuable information. I managed to get the majority off with thinner and some elbow grease. I oiled it up for now and will pick up again this week. Now it's time to prep for the Superbowl Party.

[Mr Twister]

My thought would be to tape off unaffected areas and soda blast it off .

[steve25]

That looks like it was cast blast paint that was used and as far as I know that stuff is not made for usage on the inside of a motor.

[Dragncar]

I still keep a PAW catalog around for reference. Most of their pages were simply reprints right out of the hot rod companies catalogs.
And you could order anything you wanted, even a 455 Pontiac. Cast rods only but at least you could order it.
PAW was great, wish they were still around.