[TCSGTO]

Originally Posted by torqhead

The shim that you find on some motors between the flexplate and the crank was used when the motor was assembled with the starter and the clearance didn't make build minimum clearance spec (between flexplate and starter) is my understanding.

Makes sense. On aftermarket mini starters to get the gear to flexplate clearance the shim goes between the starter and mounting block.

[72LuxuryLeMansLa.]

Originally Posted by TCSGTO

Makes sense. On aftermarket mini starters to get the gear to flexplate clearance the shim goes between the starter and mounting block.

My stock 72 350 has shims between the starter and block.

[torqhead]

Originally Posted by 72LuxuryLeMansLa.

My stock 72 350 has shims between the starter and block.

Yeah, that makes sense, effectively spaces the starter top to bottom and mesh between the gears. The flexplate shim increases space from front to back to ensure the flexplate doesn't hit the starter gear when starter isn't running.

[Sirrotica]

It's the stack up of tolerances that would need this, the same as starter to block shims. However whenever parts are machined, or exchanged, the factory window of tolerances will no longer apply. I previously mentioned the shim is to make adjustments in lateral placement of the flexplate in relation to the crankshaft. The OP shows the shim in his pictures, so we can assume it was installed as the parts were assembled.

I have inadvertently left the shim out on the crank flange to flexplate, without negative results. Doubtful it's going to impact the noise that the thread is about.

[64speed]

Has this ever been resolved?

[Bentwheelbob]

Yank the engine and send it back. The season is over and you’ve gone above and beyond to find the problem.

Having the PY Forum solve this issue at this point is like throwing darts in a dark room with a blindfold on.. Everyone wants to be helpful, but it’s time to get serious.

[Va68goat]

64speed,
No, believe it or not, it hasn't been resolved. I've put less than 200 miles on this car since I got it.

Bentwheelbob,
Yeah, I think you're right. Me and my buddy's have spent well over 60 hours of diagnosis time and replacing parts. I have about $1,600 in just parts and tools since I got the motor delivered. (Rockers, pushrods, flexplate, fluids, gaskets, I also had a shop inspect the cylinder heads and I bought a bore scope.). It's been tough. If I knew more about cars, I'd have an easier time trying to figure all this out. Since my knowledge is very limited, that why I went Paul. I may try to get the flexplate installed just to rule that out before the motor goes back to Arizona. I'd hate to send the motor back and Paul can't duplicate the knocking noise. I'll let you guys know how it turns out. Thanks for all the suggestions.

[NeighborsComplaint]

Originally Posted by Va68goat

64speed,
No, believe it or not, it hasn't been resolved. I've put less than 200 miles on this car since I got it.

You got yourself a real mystery there. Change out the flexplate leaving the convertor disconnected and sorry to say, hope for best but prepare for the worst.

[chiphead]

My money is that it's still banging on the windage tray.

[grivera]

Originally Posted by chiphead

My money is that it's still banging on the windage tray.

This is definitely possible but doesn't seem likely considering it's a factory style pan, factory windage tray (with spacers), factory 455 crank (4.21 stroke).

By comparison, my 461 with the longer 4.25 stroke and aftermarket Tomahawk windage tray doesn't have clearance issues.

[chiphead]

What else could it be? He tore apart the top end multiple times, which eliminates valve covers, valley pan, lifters, rockers, pushrods.

He doesn't see glitter in the oil, which would be crank endplay.

Exhaust banging on the frame? He should see that.

Cam endplay? That should destroy the lifters/lobes

Rods hitting wrist pins? It should show metal in the filter.

Piston slap Should go away when it warms up

Its a sheetmetal noise? The tray is damaged, loose or improperly spaced.

[grivera]

Originally Posted by chiphead

What else could it be? He tore apart the top end multiple times, which eliminates valve covers, valley pan, lifters, rockers, pushrods.

He doesn't see glitter in the oil, which would be crank endplay.

Exhaust banging on the frame? He should see that.

Cam endplay? That should destroy the lifters/lobes

Rods hitting wrist pins? It should show metal in the filter.

Piston slap Should go away when it warms up

Its a sheetmetal noise? The tray is damaged, loose or improperly spaced.

The flexplate hasn't been ruled out just yet and when they installed the windage tray spacers they checked for clearance. I for one and hoping it is something as simple as the flexplate or windage tray...for Joe's sake

[jonmachota78]

Originally Posted by chiphead

My money is that it's still banging on the windage tray.

X2 on that. Check it again before sending the engine off

[dataway]

Yep ... I still think it's a crank weight tapping gently on something.

Wanna see some slow-mo.

[TedRamAirII]

Originally Posted by dataway

Yep ... I still think it's a crank weight tapping gently on something.

Wanna see some slow-mo.

Is it possible for the Crank Counterweight to rub on the oil pump shaft? If so, I would think you could feel it through the distributor housing. When running, just get your stethoscope on it, or crank the engine by hand with your hand on the rotor?

[grivera]

Originally Posted by TedRamAirII

Is it possible for the Crank Counterweight to rub on the oil pump shaft? If so, I would think you could feel it through the distributor housing. When running, just get your stethoscope on it, or crank the engine by hand with your hand on the rotor?

How would this be possible on a factory block with factory replacement parts? Could H-beam rods affect clearance?

[dataway]

On my bone stock engine it's close but not that close maybe 1/4" or 3/16".

[tom s]

On may 23rd of this year post 105 I said get it out and back to Paul,4 month gone and a summer lost.I cant say how much im bummed for you.Paul will find it IF its in the engine im sure.Tom

[Va68goat]

NeighborsComplaint,

I may try this weekend to pull the converter back and start the car and see if the knocking noise is still there. I spoke to Paul today and we were talking about the placement of the starter as well.

chiphead,
I hope it's not the windage tray. Apparently Paul spaces the windage tray with 2 washers. When we pulled the motor, we noticed only one washer (See picture). We used a spacer that provided a little more clearance (See picture). Here is what the pan looked like when we pulled the motor (see pictures)

[Va68goat]

jonmachota78,
I agree. I think at this point, I have to exhaust all means before the motor goes back. At the minimum I have to rule out the flexplate and verify clearance of the starter.

dataway,
I'll try to get some slow motion video this weekend. I think thats a great idea.

tom s,
Yeah after the money and time that I have in this car since it's been delivered, that may have been the right thing to do. Missing the whole season was pretty tough considering I'm so close to retirement. I haven't had a chance to enjoy this car since doing so much work to it.

TedRamAirII,
If we get a chance to mess with the car this weekend, I'll get the stethoscope out and try that!