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#1
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24x30 Garage cost?
I'm going to put a garage building in the backyard. I've got a quote for a 24 x 30 with 10' walls. It has one 16 x 10 roll up door w/chain hoist, one walk in door. Two standard windows. Radiant barrier and EZ Vent-n-Closure ridge vent system. Sight work, concrete, and building 25k. Seems reasonable to me. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks! Colt.
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#2
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Yeah, I wouldn't doubt it a bit.
That's the size I had originally wanted, a couple of years back. But the budget was only $10k. Just the dirt & concrete work for the bigger size would have consumed my budget. Had to settle for a much smaller 2-bay size, bare essentials model. It's really tight working around a car, with 2 cars inside. As it has turned out, it's adequate for the small amount of stuff I can afford to do. It is at least a really good storage facility for my parts & tools, plus a couple of Pontiacs. |
#3
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Do yourself a favor and price it with a 12' ceiling. It will allow you to install a lift in the future if you so desire.
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#4
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Like necdb3 says. You can get by with a 10 ft. but may have to modify some trusses. Use to build garages and pole barns. Cheaper to go up and longer.
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#5
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$25k does sound reasonable. I just finished getting a 24'x28' (9'6"H) addition to my garage, and the total is a little over $25k. And that only needed three sides! However it's well insulated, 1/2" plywood interior, and 46' of 3" steel hoist beams. And three 10'x8' overhead doors with openers was $4,900!
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#6
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Mine was close to 50 for a 28 x 24, 13 ft ceiling with scissor trusses.
attached to old garage so only had to do 3 walls. This included site excavation and tree removal. I did the siding by myself with Milled cedar logs that we took out and had milled at no charge. So sounds like a deal to me. Mine was wired for hoist and insulated. Drywalled and painted. This was 2 years ago. Hoist just went in 2 weeks ago. Lovin it. Mind you this is in Canada so cost may be more.
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#7
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Put it in a place where you can later ad a lean to. You’d be surprised how handy a lean to is for additional room for parts & lawn care or additional vehicles.
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#8
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To qualify, Im a builder and have done many pole barns, stick building and specialized in steel building erection. Its kinda hard to know if the price is good as it depends a lot on your location. For MD that seems like it hits right there in the average. If you really want to know if the price is good, get another quote from a reputable contractor. BUT, unless there is so much building going on and there is a long back log I am sure you got a fair price to begin with. If your happy with the price, and its within your budget than go for it.
I agree its cheaper to go higher now than regret it later, but 10' seems pretty high to me already ( I have 11', although I dont have a lift, there is plenty of room to add one). Another option which I did is to use scissor trusses which will get you a lot of head room with minimal cost. |
#9
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For a lift, truss "orientation" relative to vehicle position is equally as important as the height, if you are talking a pole - type building. Side doors and vehicle entry, parallel to the truss, can lessen the height requirement depending on truss spacing. If you're taking a garage with wood trusses on 16" or 24" centers, then you absolutely would have to go higher.
Do what you can afford now. It isn't likely to get cheaper if you wait.
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#10
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I agree with everybody else about going a bit taller! I have a 10,000lb two post lift with a 12ft ceiling (actually a bit higher I believe). With one of my pickups on the lift, I can get the roof of the truck pretty close to the ceiling.
My go to advise to anyone planning on having a building done is go as big & tall as possible, even if it seems like a bit of a strain initially, because you will kick yourself down the road if you don't. All of us car guys are pretty much the same....we love lots of cars & stuff, so the buildings fill up fast. Mine started at 40 x 88 & two years ago I added on 16 x 88 & now thinking about 12x 40 out the back for spring time. God Bless & Merry Christmas BIll https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...closed.614419/
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#11
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Nailed it!
Right now I have all my "Yard" machines in the garage and have to roll them all outside when I want to work in the garage. I would also like to add an outside shed for the 80 gallon Air compressor to free up some space and not have to hear it run.
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#12
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Every farmer ever: "There's never been a building built big enough."
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Clutch Guys Matter _______________________________________ 53 Studebaker, 400P/th400/9" 64 F-85 72 4-4-2 Mondello's VO Twister II 84 Hurst/Olds #2449 87 Cutlass Salon 54 Olds 88 sedan |
#13
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Every car mechanic and car guy says exactly the same thing.........
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#14
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If you can swing it, go 26' deep instead of 24. The extra 2' depth is huge. I did it and am so glad. When you start adding work benches, tool chests, etc. against the back wall you will soon see that it was a great decision.
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#15
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Friend said to build as wide as u can and as long as u have money!
Have to agree...... never enough room! |
#16
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Quote:
24' minus 2' work bench = 22', minus 10"x 2 (block walls) = 20'4" 24' will work if you have no work benches along the wall in front of the vehicles ... but that's the long wall, where the benches are most useful. Why did I go 32 x 24? At the time cost was a factor ... so I designed the place in multiples of 8' to save on my labor and material costs. Not to mention at the time the jump from 24' to 26' trusses was considerable. |
#17
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Going taller also means you can have a loft area some where for storage,office,lounge etc
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