#1061  
Old 06-30-2022, 11:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 64speed View Post
Do you have the small radiator?
Crap! forgot about the bigger core for AC cars, For some reason thought they were all the same 64-65 just the bigger 4 core rad of same dimensions. Disregard my previous comment

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  #1062  
Old 07-01-2022, 06:44 AM
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Crap! forgot about the bigger core for AC cars, For some reason thought they were all the same 64-65 just the bigger 4 core rad of same dimensions. Disregard my previous comment
I have the small core.

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  #1063  
Old 07-01-2022, 08:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 64speed View Post
I have the small core.
Will a bigger radiator fit?

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  #1064  
Old 07-01-2022, 09:31 AM
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I can get that conversion kit from Cold Case but the radiator is only 2 inches deeper and Cold Case told me it was an airflow problem more than anything else. Its terribly expensive too but at this point I may have to suck it up but it will be a while. As expensive as gas it it wont kill me to shut it off in prolonged traffic I dont guess cause like I said driving doesnt go over 180.

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  #1065  
Old 07-01-2022, 09:42 AM
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2 inches deeper as in a thicker core? Look at square inches of cooling capacity. Not saying that would solve your issues by itself but a combo of improvement may solve:

More cooling capacity
Initial timing w/VA
Correct mechanical fan
Seal air gaps around fan shroud

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  #1066  
Old 07-01-2022, 09:59 AM
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I just called Cold Case to inquire as to what they thought about the bigger radiator and they told me I need an equal to the crank size water pump pulley. I dont think thats right. I have called them 3 times now and have not been real impressed about their knowledge. Maybe I am wrong.

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  #1067  
Old 07-01-2022, 10:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 64speed View Post
I just called Cold Case to inquire as to what they thought about the bigger radiator and they told me I need an equal to the crank size water pump pulley. I dont think thats right. I have called them 3 times now and have not been real impressed about their knowledge. Maybe I am wrong.
That is incorrect info for a car with AC

Also, I know you’re trying to gather info but pulling from different sources can sometimes be counterproductive.

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'69 LeMans Vert, 350, #47 heads: Non-running project

Last edited by grivera; 07-01-2022 at 10:17 AM.
  #1068  
Old 07-01-2022, 10:31 AM
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grivera...2" deeper...he means 2" taller...it requires a different core support or modding the existing with a retrofit to turn his non AC core support into an AC core support. This may help but it may not. As stated previously it cools just fine while moving.

  #1069  
Old 07-01-2022, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 64speed View Post
they told me I need an equal to the crank size water pump pulley. I dont think thats right.
Right now you have a 6.2" water pump pulley and a 8" crank pulley, which is great for a A/C car. WP is turning 29% faster than the crank. For instance, if idle speed is 750, then the WP is turning 967 rpm. If you install the smaller CVF crank pulley, (which is also 6.2"), or a 1:1 ratio, then you would slow down the WP to 750, same as crank speed.
Your pulley ratio is fine, it mimics the factory A/C set up. I believe the problem is that you are running A/C in a non-A/C core support. Changing to the bigger radiator, like the factory did, may solve the issue

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  #1070  
Old 07-01-2022, 10:45 AM
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I have what I believe is the biggest radiator that will fit in a '64. I do have the deeper GTO core support. I'll try and find the part number and maybe post some pics.

  #1071  
Old 07-01-2022, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grivera View Post
That is incorrect info for a car with AC.
Agree. For an A/C car, you want the biggest crank pulley and smallest water pump pulley you can get your hands on. Not sure why the tech at Cold Case told him to get same sized pulleys for a 1:1 ratio, which would be detrimental to cooling.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Singleton View Post
I believe the problem is that you are running A/C in a non-A/C core support. Changing to the bigger radiator, like the factory did, may solve the issue
The extra ~50 sq.in. of core surface area afforded by the taller A/C radiator certainly can't hurt. However, just for the sake of discussion, does everyone who installs aftermarket A/C into a non-A/C car suffer from overheating?

Another possible factor that might be playing into all this somewhat is that his engine doesn't have that many miles on it, so it may run cooler as it continues to break in.

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Last edited by ZeGermanHam; 07-01-2022 at 11:58 AM.
  #1072  
Old 07-01-2022, 01:59 PM
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Because the car was originally a Tempest with a 326 in it it wasn't going to have the right core support to use the 389 A/C radiator. Of course it won't cool a 455 derivative engine with aftermarket A/C with the smaller radiator.

I learned along time ago that adding coolant capacity to a marginally cooled Pontiac will always help the situation. In my race cars I actually used 2 radiators to get more fin area, and larger coolant capacity, and it worked perfectly in any conditions. Of course that isn't possible in most street cars, so you have to add in different ways to the factory system. But first you have to use the largest radiator that the factory designed. the fact that running the heater helps, is an indicator of more fin area is needed.

I'd bet the larger radiator would likely cure the problem, and if it still didn't cure it, the ford style expansion tank will add more coolant capacity to the challenged system. More fin area and more coolant capacity will likely solve the problem. I've struggled with cooling, and adding as much fin area as possible, along with increasing water pump speed, moving as much air through the radiator, and increasing the volume of the system all work together.

The clutch fans do a good job, but I found the RV style nylon fans even better on my race cars, as well as a street driven 455 W/A/C. Light weight and they run at all times, plus they pull more air that a steel fan does, come in 16,17,and 18 inch. The fan weighs about 11 ounces, and has almost a 90 degree pitch on it.



After making changes to the race car it would never go over 180 no matter how hot it was, or how long it was raced. That's what has worked for me in the past, believe it or not, YMMV. Continuously overheating an engine will add to an early demise, it has an effect on everything wearing out sooner.


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  #1073  
Old 07-01-2022, 02:53 PM
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Well I cant afford the radiator and the core support right now so I will be cutting it off in traffic for right now.

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  #1074  
Old 07-01-2022, 03:50 PM
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It will most likely get hotter after “cutting it off”.

  #1075  
Old 07-01-2022, 04:44 PM
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yes...if you have a mechanical gauge you will notice that after you shut it down...it gets hotter...its called heat soak.

  #1076  
Old 07-01-2022, 05:28 PM
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I figured it would heat soak as well but it only goes up to about 190 and drops as soon as I crank it back up

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  #1077  
Old 07-01-2022, 06:48 PM
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I’m taking it Tuesday after the 4th to a friend that races a T-37 I think I already mentioned. I am exhausted with all this.

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  #1078  
Old 07-02-2022, 06:35 PM
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Clean as a whistle
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  #1079  
Old 07-03-2022, 01:08 PM
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Raised the idle from 800 to 1000, put the 17.25 inch Derale clutch fan in it and boom no overheating anymore. It stays at 180 with the air off in 92 degrees and went to 200 with the air on and held so long I got bored, turned the air off and it went down to 185. Checked with gauge and temp gun. It might would overheat in Atlanta traffic but seems ok now. I don’t know what the difference and inch and a quarter of fan made but it’s like a damn tornado now.

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Last edited by 64speed; 07-03-2022 at 01:24 PM.
  #1080  
Old 07-03-2022, 01:32 PM
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Who’d a thunk it? �� Glad you got it goin your way! Now get out & drive the wheels off it. It’ll only get better as it gets some miles les on it.

Happy 4th
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