[yellow fever]

My white 70 T/A is undergoing a frame-off restoration. We are ready to paint the upper dash again but I need to know the color code for the correct blue. This is the metal part of the dash between the plastic dash and the base of the windshield. Not the option code for the 1970 "bright blue" interior, but the actual formula for the correct shade of blue for the upper dash. I believe it's different than Lucerne blue, which is what color the shaker is supposed to be. Any help or guidance would be appreciated.

[70RAlll]

If your interior was bright blue then it was a suede version of the bright blue, otherwise it would have been black suede. which color are you asking about?? the suede has a texturizing additive that makes the paint look almost like orange peel to help with the reflection of the sun. PPG doesn't make it anymore. I know a shop that bought a few gallons of the text agent(very small amount is used in the mix) and is still making this suede in pints using PPG lacquer.Which is what you want

[yellow fever]

Hi Bill,

I should have known you would be the one that would have the answer, lol. The car is Polar white with bright blue interior, so I need whatever shade of blue and texture it should be for that car, so I guess it's the suede version of the bright blue. My painter is asking for the actual code for the blue color (like form PPG or whomever) or the formula. Thanks.

Paul

[speedfreq]

TCP Global still makes the blue suede your looking for, or at least they were when I needed it about 8 months ago.
http://www.tcpglobal.com/aclchip.asp...ntiac-pg02.jpg

[transam1972]

7

70RAIII I was going to ask NORWOOD to restore my black upper front window posts and side trim..I am certain this must be a special code...is there anything you can tell me about it..is it the same as the dash or a diiferant formula and are they gloss or no gloss?..I definitely need some of this paint unless he has some?

[70RAlll]

Originally Posted by speedfreq

TCP Global still makes the blue suede your looking for, or at least they were when I needed it about 8 months ago.
http://www.tcpglobal.com/aclchip.asp...ntiac-pg02.jpg

TCP Global would not fill an order for black suede around Christmas.Told me they could not get the additives any longer. Plus, sold me 1 gallon of Cameo White for $400,then jacked the price up to almost $900 a gallon for anymore gallons. Glad I bought bunch of the correct lacquer colors over the past few years. Lacquer ,at least OEM quality, is a thing of the past. PPG has announcements on their web site to this effect.. if anyone needs or will need correct suede paint, I would get it asap. A pint(which mixes at 1: 1.5) ends up being a quart +, which is all you would ever need.That will do 3 maybe 4 dashes considering the thinned amount.

[FunctionalShaker]

I believe you can get it in a DuPont paint. My understanding is that it simply has less metallic and a flattening agent in it to reduce the glare. Haven't seen the orange peel texture. I remember asking about it a while back at the store that supplies my paint.

[yellow fever]

It looks from that sheet that the one I need is called "medium bright blue poly", Ditzler code 13966, right?

[yellow fever]

I'm talking about the sheet from TCP Global that 70RAIII provided the link to, page 2.

[keith k]

Originally Posted by FunctionalShaker

I believe you can get it in a DuPont paint. My understanding is that it simply has less metallic and a flattening agent in it to reduce the glare. Haven't seen the orange peel texture. I remember asking about it a while back at the store that supplies my paint.

The original stuff definitely has something in it that gives it a "texture". A friend of mine had a can of it (original lacquer) that I borrowed to give to the guy who painted the last T/A I restored. He didn't realize it was supposed to come out textured, and sanded it off twice trying to get it to be "flat"....

[FunctionalShaker]

Did the texture flatten out with age, because non of the interior parts I have with original paint have texture on them?

[Baron Von Zeppelin]

The shaker goes Tyrol Blue - not Lucerne. fwiw
A lot have used Lucerne ... can usually tell them by the extra clash with the decals.
69 TA stripes were also Tyrol.

Suede mix adds more of a grain than an orange peel.
It was supposed to give additional aid to defracting light / glare - along with the flat sheen of the color. Double whammy .

You will never get the aftermarket products to look like the factory applied finish did.
Looks cheap to me and i quit using it a long time ago.

If you can bake the finish right after application at about 250-300* like the factory did you might get factory looking results with suede mix.

It did tend to "smooth out" some with age on the factory finishes.

Most of the aftermarket suede mix just makes a bumpy surface that later creates problems with cleaning techniques down the road. Most end up slathering it with armor-all to get it to look uniform again. Aftermarket flat paint with suede mix added is not very forgiving.

[hobi]

Originally Posted by Baron Von Zeppelin

The shaker goes Tyrol Blue - not Lucerne. fwiw
A lot have used Lucerne ... can usually tell them by the extra clash with the decals.
69 TA stripes were also Tyrol.

Suede mix adds more of a grain than an orange peel.
It was supposed to give additional aid to defracting light / glare - along with the flat sheen of the color. Double whammy .

You will never get the aftermarket products to look like the factory applied finish did.
Looks cheap to me and i quit using it a long time ago.

If you can bake the finish right after application at about 250-300* like the factory did you might get factory looking results with suede mix.

It did tend to "smooth out" some with age on the factory finishes.

Most of the aftermarket suede mix just makes a bumpy surface that later creates problems with cleaning techniques down the road. Most end up slathering it with armor-all to get it to look uniform again. Aftermarket flat paint with suede mix added is not very forgiving.

Very true Barron heat gun after you spray works sometimes if you don't get carried away. my 4 cents

[70RAlll]

If you have access to an automotive paint stores database where it shows the different colors %'s that make up the formulation for a color,like the bright blue poly suede mentioned here, you will see a very small component is actually called "texturizing agent". My local automotive PPG store, 5 yrs back or so, said they could not get that component when I asked for a quart of black suede.Told me they normally just leave it out, that no one notices anyway. We went round and round and finally spoke with the local PPG rep, who informed the auto paint supply herein TN that in fact PPG still had the texturizing agent for sale, but only came in gallons . I had to buy an entire gallon, only to use a few ounces in my quart. SO without a doubt it is different paint and texturizing agent is part of the formulation. Also one member mentioned that he has looked at all his interior and can't see a textured surface.The only parts that suede is used on is the dash,rear bottom metal piece along rear window(package shelf). The A pillars and other trim is just semi gloss. Anyway, I ended up selling the gallon of texturizing agent to a restorer I helped source parts for. If you look on the PPG sheet shown on TCP, it clearly lists all the pieces that were covered with suede.And Zep is correct when he states this was simply to deadened the suns glare.GM actually called this mixture Zero Gloss.And per the original 1970 RM sheets, suede was not used on Tempest and Lemans-guess that means GTO's?? Here is a link to the place that can make the PPG lacquer.They advertise for Mopars(which all of the manufacturers used this process) but email them and give them the Ditzler code, they will make you the bright blue poly suede. One last thing.. There may be other lacquers available, but the PPG Duracryl is/was the closest to OEM since R-M(Rinshed-Mason) quite suppling the GM Paint. RM was the original aftermarket supply of GM formulas. Here are the Fisher and Tintometer codes for your bright blue suede:FisherWOA3742 Tintometer 170B25 It was originally called Med. Bright Blue Iridescence .. Hope this helps:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cuda-Challen...item3a81a9d0dd

[aef400]

I had this paint mixed a few years ago for my 1970. The formula has a texturing additive.
When sprayed, it has zero gloss and a uniform gritty texture that feels like 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. The color match is right on ( blue paint on can appears darker than real life).
Al

[keith k]

Originally Posted by Baron Von Zeppelin

The shaker goes Tyrol Blue - not Lucerne. fwiw

Have you seen that documented anywhere?

Not debating you, because Lucerne certainly doesn't match the stripes well. Just that I've never seen any factory or paint manufacturer lit that specifies a different color...

[68bird400HO]

Originally Posted by Baron Von Zeppelin

The shaker goes Tyrol Blue - not Lucerne. fwiw
A lot have used Lucerne ... can usually tell them by the extra clash with the decals.

This is incorrect. The shakers were Lucerne. I had this same question when I restored my car a few years ago. I had the opportunity to view an original paint car and it clearly had a LB shaker mismatching the stripe. Furthrtmore, when I sanded down my own shaker I went through a few layers of colors, including a red color that the car was painted once in the early 80s. Under all of that there was the LB paint over black primer as the last two layers. Matched the paint chip dead on. A lot of people prefer (or incorrectly believe) that the stripe should match and mix up a non-metallic paint to do so. I am not even sure Tyrol would look right anyway since the stripe color has a touch of aqua that may clash worse than LB.

[Baron Von Zeppelin]

Tyrol / Marina is the ticket.
But don't think i have ever seen a documented factory spec - either way.

Lucy looks sorta toopid with the stripes - i think its taken more for granted than it is anything. imho
Never thought Lucy was real sweet to the bright blue interior either.
But she is a pretty color.

I wouldn't take a 30-40 year old exterior metallic lacquer specimen too deeply.
But it boils down to choices made by the gut.

Seems like their ought to be a factory paper with that spec somewhere.
Whatever the true written verdict is.

[2manyT/A'S]

What a GREAT debate........this has turned into a real interesting thread......

It would be good if we can "nail down" a factory published shaker paint code.

The cowl/dash top is another good topic.

Was just repainting one last week.....and remembered that most,if not ALL that I painted were top color coat over bare untreated/unprimed steel.......once you start trying to "feather it"....... it ALL needs to come off.......

Up north here,where it's damp all the time........there is usually rust under the factory paint.

[Baron Von Zeppelin]

the dash part was good

i shoulda kept shut about the shaker
some things are better left unsaid.