[mkoser]

I have recently completed the conversion of my brake master cylinder in my 1964 Pontiac Catalina from a single reservoir to a dual reservoir. I have been asked by members to provide details. This is the way that I did it, your results may vary. I excuse myself from any liability in modifying your original brake system using my method.

This is the "preliminary" conversion. Now that I know what I need, and that it works, I will fine tune it in the weeks to come. Basically, I plan on tidying up my new brake lines, to make it more presentable. You'll see in the final picture that I ended up using one 20 inch and one 30 inch brake line. I will probably redo this with 2, 20 inch lines. Here is the basic info:

Originally I started with a single master cylinder with 4 wheel power drum brakes:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8293453@N08/4883527875/

1. Materials:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8293453@N08/4883529389/

In this picture you will see the master cylinder I originally purchased from O'reilly Autoparts, but returned due to it being defective. The small allen head screw at the very end of the master cylinder was stripped and leaking. This was a Cardone rebuild. I then purchased a Fenco rebuilt cylinder that did not have this screw, and was in fine shape.

A. Master Cylinder Autozone M-1328
B. 2, 1/4 inch brake lines. These have ends that are 7/16-24. SAE Inverted Flare. (NAPA). I used one 30 and one 20 inch. You may use any length that you desire.
C. 9/16-18 Male to 7/16-24 female adapter Carquest (part number unknown) (Not Pipe Thread!)
D. 1/2-20 male to 7/16-24 female adapter (Not Pipe Thread!) NAPA
E. 7/16-24 male plug. NAPA (Not Pipe Thread!)
F. Female 7/16-24 to female 7/16-24 "barrel" connector. (Not Pipe Thread!) Carquest
G. Dot 3 brake fluid.

I didn't exactly do this in these steps, due to my bad new master cylinder, but this is how I would do it if I did it again:

2. Procedure:

1. Remove existing master cylinder. Look at the hole where your brake push rod enters the master cylinder. If there is a hole that is over an inch long, then it is the deep push rod. If it is just a divot, then it is the shallow push rod.
2. Remove the brake line at the distribution block that goes to the rear brakes, and the line that goes to the original master cylinder. Soak these connections in PB Blaster several days before you attempt to remove.
3. Insert the "plug" into the distribution block where the original rear brake line connected.
4. Insert one new brake line into the distribution block where the original master cylinder brake line connected.
5. Using the barrel connector, connect the other new brake line to the existing brake line going to the rear brakes.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8293453@N08/4883531871/
6. Loosely install the new master cylinder in position. Check to see the pushrod fits correctly. I didn't have to make any adjustment to my push rod.
7. Bend the new brake lines to your liking. I just did it by hand, because I don't own a tubing bender. Take your time. The line going to the rear brakes connects to the front output of the master, and the line going to the distribution block goes to the rear port of the master. Your front brakes should always connect to the port that is nearest to your brake pedal.
8. Once your lines are bent to your liking, remove the master cylinder and bench bleed it. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT. Even though I thought I bench bled it thoroughly, I still had air that I had to deal with.
9. Reinstall the master cylinder, and install the correct adapters needed to connect the brake lines. Have a helper depress the brake pedal then tighten the connections at the master cylinder. RESIST the temptation to jump in the car and "test" the brakes. If you do, you'll draw air into the master and have a fun time bleeding the system.
10. Take your vacuum bleeder and throw it in the trash. Call your wife to come out and help you. It worked a million times better. Bleed your brakes from rear right, to rear left, to front right, to front left. Make sure you don't run out of fluid in the master cylinder.
11. Test for brake pedal firmness, and go for a slow test drive. If you're like me, you'll realize that you STILL have air in your system, and will have to bleed again tomorrow.


Completed conversion: http://www.flickr.com/photos/8293453@N08/4883530859/

Again, your result may vary. I enjoyed this project, and feel better about taking my wife and daughter out for a drive now.

As you may have noticed, not one single store in my area had ALL the parts that I needed. You will probably have to shop around. Don't hesitate to ask me if you have any questions. I am by NO MEANS an expert, but even a blind squirrel gets a nut every now and then.

Thanks for reading,

Good luck!
Matt K.

[Jagtec1]

Thanks for the writeup Matt! If I ever get around to working on my car, it will most certainly be helpful.

[MOJO Catalina]

OK so the line closer to the booster goes to the front brake distribution block and the other one supplies the rear brakes, correct?

[BigAquaBonney]

Nice work. Remember what the Master Cyl. set you back?

[Engine-Ear]

Good stuff here!!

mkoser, couple of questions:

1) for specifically what application (year/make/model/options) did you request the m/c?

2) total cost of parts?

3) just to clarify: you retained the OE junction block and used the rear half of the new m/c to supply fluid to the rear wheels (please confirm).

...it would seem unnecessary to fit a 'proportioning' valve when retaining an all-drum system.

4) how many miles have you driven the car in the new config?

Would you say that under the full range of brake application (easy, panic, etc.), that they feel balanced (no new amount of nose-dive or rear wheel skidding, etc.)?

[mkeafer]

This is just the type of information I needed to do my 64 Catalina.
However, I too would like to know for specifically what application (year/make/model/options) did you request the m/c?
Thanks for the great job!
Mike.

[MOJO Catalina]

Looks like that thread is from August 2010 so he may no longer check his PY account.
I got mine at Advance Auto Parts and it's for a 1969 Bonneville with 4 wheel drum brakes. No portioning valve is neccessary for drums brakes, I guess because the front wheel cylinders are larger than the rears? You may have to adjust the plunger rod.
When I first did mine the brakes were full on. I had to shorten my original push rod.

[64catdroptop]

I normally tell them it's a MC for a '69 Camaro ss/rs, or '69 Bonneville

-r-

[mike nixon]

Get a Master for a 67/8 Catalina and it will work. At least it did on my 65 G/P.

A disc master will retain pressure on the front brake port.

[mkeafer]

And how do you know how much to shorten or otherwise change the push rod?
Thanks again.
Mike.

[mike nixon]

Push rod may not need changed depending on which master you use.

[mkoser]

Originally Posted by MOJO Catalina

OK so the line closer to the booster goes to the front brake distribution block and the other one supplies the rear brakes, correct?

Yes, the line closest to you always goes to the front brakes.

[mkoser]

Originally Posted by BigAquaBonney

Nice work. Remember what the Master Cyl. set you back?

I want to say the Master Cylinder was around 25 bucks.

[mkoser]

Originally Posted by Engine-Ear

Good stuff here!!

mkoser, couple of questions:

1) for specifically what application (year/make/model/options) did you request the m/c?

1968 Pontiac Catalina with Power Drum/Drum

2) total cost of parts?
Less than $50.00

3) just to clarify: you retained the OE junction block and used the rear half of the new m/c to supply fluid to the rear wheels (please confirm).

Yes. I used the original junction block to feed the front cylinders, plugging the hole that originally fed the rear. I used a double female to hook the new master to the original old rear brake line.

...it would seem unnecessary to fit a 'proportioning' valve when retaining an all-drum system.

Correct. The proportioning on this system comes from the different diameters of the wheel cylinders. The junction block is just a block, not proportioning is achieved here.

4) how many miles have you driven the car in the new config?

Probably 300 or so. No problems so far.

Would you say that under the full range of brake application (easy, panic, etc.), that they feel balanced (no new amount of nose-dive or rear wheel skidding, etc.)?

I'm still having problems with adjustment, but I had those before I did the swap. I was using OLD shoes that at one time had been rusted to the drums. I'm confident that new shoes this spring will solve my problems. Otherwise, it brakes fine.... The same as when you drove it this summer

[mkoser]

Originally Posted by mkeafer

And how do you know how much to shorten or otherwise change the push rod?
Thanks again.
Mike.

I used a M-1328 master. Did not need to adjust my push rod at all.

[mkoser]

Sorry I have been away! Been busy. We added a daughter to the family in September, and work has been insane!!!

Thanks,

MK

[mkoser]

Originally Posted by mike nixon

Get a Master for a 67/8 Catalina and it will work. At least it did on my 65 G/P.

A disc master will retain pressure on the front brake port.

Right, you've got to specify that you need a drum/drum master. A disc will hold pressure to the front wheels, and cause sticky brakes.

MK

[1967Tempest]

That is a great write up. I want to do this to the 62 wagon. Will the same procedure work? I just don't feel that safe with the single reservoir. Total failure if one brake line gives out...

Thanks in advance,

Dave

[mkoser]

Originally Posted by 1967Tempest

That is a great write up. I want to do this to the 62 wagon. Will the same procedure work? I just don't feel that safe with the single reservoir. Total failure if one brake line gives out...

Thanks in advance,

Dave

I've never worked on a '62, but I'd be willing to bet that it'll be close to the same.

I'd start by taking off the master, and the connections at the distribution block.

Take those parts with your to your parts seller and compare to what they have.

Once you get all the parts, just put it together.

It'll work the same, just don't know if all the connections are the same size (I'm betting they are.)

Front or rear brakes only is not the best situation in any case, but it having a built in back up in our old Ponchos sure makes you feel better.

Thanks,

MK

[1967Tempest]

Yes it does. Especially when the car weighs more than 2 tons!! I looked at the pictures and it is almost identical to the 62. I guess that this is dependent on the rod size and bore depth. I have to rebleed the lines as the bleeder in the MC was a touch loose and it got drained of fluid.

So if I am going to rebleed, I might as well put 50$ into it and have better stopping and a back-up!!

Dave