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  #21  
Old 10-16-2012, 12:02 PM
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Nice work so far!

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1971 Pontiac GT-37

Car is a junk yard dog and maybe one day will be restored.
  #22  
Old 10-16-2012, 12:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 428ho4spd View Post
Those look like the correct 14 x 7 "JK" wheels. Look for a two letter code to the right of the valve stem on each one. Where are you located?
You might be right. I will have to check the codes. Now that I think about it, I actually have 8 rims. A few without tires so I can measure the rim width. I am located in eastern Nebraska.

I am hastily trying to catch this thread up to present day, so I will try to be more detailed with future posts.

  #23  
Old 10-18-2012, 01:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 428ho4spd View Post
Those look like the correct 14 x 7 "JK" wheels. Look for a two letter code to the right of the valve stem on each one. Where are you located?
Just checked this morning. Yes, they are "JK" wheels. I have at least 5 of those.

  #24  
Old 10-18-2012, 11:36 PM
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Does your GP have the original XH 400? I'm glad to see somebody is saving a GP and not pulling the motor to put it in a GTO.


Last edited by se428bandit; 10-19-2012 at 12:05 AM.
  #25  
Old 10-18-2012, 11:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GP Fan View Post
Just checked this morning. Yes, they are "JK" wheels. I have at least 5 of those.
Those are correct for both '69 GP and Firebird. If looking to sell, post them in the G Body and Firebird parts for sale sections and I'm sure you'll get someone that wants them. You may also want to post the date codes as well, these are the stamped numbers to the left (month) and right (day) of the valve stem hole. They should be an easy sell to someone within driving distance from you. Shipping them can be costly and may be more difficult to sell that way.

Grant

  #26  
Old 10-19-2012, 10:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 428ho4spd View Post
Those are correct for both '69 GP and Firebird. If looking to sell, post them in the G Body and Firebird parts for sale sections and I'm sure you'll get someone that wants them. You may also want to post the date codes as well, these are the stamped numbers to the left (month) and right (day) of the valve stem hole. They should be an easy sell to someone within driving distance from you. Shipping them can be costly and may be more difficult to sell that way.

Grant
Thanks, That is good to know. I will probably post a set for sale. Any suggestions as to a reasonable asking price for a set of these rims in this condition?

  #27  
Old 10-21-2012, 11:39 AM
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If the outer wheel lips and lug holes are all nice, I would say $50 to $75 each.

  #28  
Old 10-22-2012, 03:25 PM
SAAC2110 SAAC2110 is offline
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You got two 69-70 GP's for parts cars along with this one? Where do you guys keep finding these cars?!! Even at the largest swap meet in my area total 69-72 GP parts consisted of one (72) rusted dented fender, one (70) grille pair, a 69-72 dash complete with cracks and 3 center console inserts. And yes all items were priced as if they were at Barrett Jackson to boot. Vintage GP cars and parts are impossible in my area and you guys just keep finding em left and right while I get to play Indian Jones in the great GP crusade! Everybody that's got some parts they don't need or want to sell lets get those parts posted in the classified section here or post that you might be parting out a car, every bit helps.

  #29  
Old 10-22-2012, 03:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by se428bandit View Post
Does your GP have the original XH 400? I'm glad to see somebody is saving a GP and not pulling the motor to put it in a GTO.
Yes it does have the XH 400 in it. The engine came from a donor 69 GP that was too far gone for restoration. Has about 90,000 miles on it but I am hoping with a little TLC it will get me down the road for at least a few more years. Having the quadrajet rebuilt and got long branch headers to put on as well.

  #30  
Old 10-22-2012, 03:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SAAC2110 View Post
You got two 69-70 GP's for parts cars along with this one? Where do you guys keep finding these cars?!! Even at the largest swap meet in my area total 69-72 GP parts consisted of one (72) rusted dented fender, one (70) grille pair, a 69-72 dash complete with cracks and 3 center console inserts. And yes all items were priced as if they were at Barrett Jackson to boot. Vintage GP cars and parts are impossible in my area and you guys just keep finding em left and right while I get to play Indian Jones in the great GP crusade! Everybody that's got some parts they don't need or want to sell lets get those parts posted in the classified section here or post that you might be parting out a car, every bit helps.
I was lucky. I searched for almost two years before an elderly man over heard me mention that I was looking for a 69 GP. He told me about a salvage yard in a very small town about an hour away that had one. I thought maybe he was blowing smoke, but I called, and sure enough they had 3 of them. Only one was in restorable condition. Now when it came to finding quality quarters.... They might as well have been located at the bottom of the ocean. Hopefully PY starts selling repros soon to make access to those types of parts alot easier.

  #31  
Old 10-22-2012, 03:38 PM
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I knew I wanted to paint it green but it took me awhile to decide on a shade. I ended up going to Fathom Green. Click image for larger version

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  #32  
Old 10-22-2012, 04:04 PM
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Default Exhaust

I also installed a PYPES 2.5 inch dual exhaust system with racepro mufflers. Went in OK. Made it a lot easier because I installed it when the body was off the frame. I dont really know how to weld so I just used clamps to mount it. Doesnt look as good but they are holding everything together so far. Will see if it leaks. I had to mess with it for awhile once the body was on to get the tail pipes where they looked ok. Will pry cut them off at a 45 degree angle. Should I use anti seize on clamps to keep nuts from seizing up due to the heat or will it be ok without? Once again, I was in a hurry and did not take a picture of the frame with the exhaust mounted!
All comments positive or negative are welcome.

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  #33  
Old 10-22-2012, 06:10 PM
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I think your doing a fine job! I wouldn't use never seize on the clamps, just tighten them up good. I always turn the clamps so the nuts are up. This makes the exhaust look better then having the threaded part of the clamps all sticking down. Keep up the good work.

  #34  
Old 11-03-2012, 07:51 AM
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Default Present day pictures

Here are some current pics. Making progress but as you can tell from the pic with no interior/dash etc I have a lot of work to do. Hoping to at least have it running before it gets too cold. I like the stance where it is now, but no bumper, carb, alternator, interior etc in yet. Probably at least a couple hundred more pounds. It has factory springs on the front. Does anyone have any idea how much I can expect the front end to settle once I start driving it? I am hoping it doesnt drop too much.

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  #35  
Old 11-03-2012, 07:57 AM
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Regarding the roof. It will have a vinyl top put on in the spring. I talked to a lot of people regarding the paint/clear coat underneath and got a lot of different opinions. Some said the adhesive would not stick as well if it was applied to clear coat, others said just prime and put vinyl over, and some said apply basecoat and no clear. Talked it over with my paint guy and we agreed that he would apply the base to seal it, but no clear. Saved on time and materials. Any opinions on that?

  #36  
Old 11-03-2012, 08:31 AM
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It depends if you installed the standard springs or went to the heavy duty springs. they will both settle some but the heavy duty springs not as much. I had heavy duty springs on my 71 GP before the frame off resto, but I installed the original standard springs during the resto. I wanted the car to sit lower and more of the original height like from the factory. As far as the vinyl top issue, I painted and cleared the entire car and have had NO issues with adhesion problems. After dealing with having the vinyl top removed and clean up surface rust and painted and reinstalling vinyl top occationally throughout the years, I wanted MAXIMUM protection. If using the right adhesive, it will stick to anything.
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  #37  
Old 11-03-2012, 10:46 PM
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You are doing a great job on the car !! keep up with the pixs.
Never seize on studs will help from rusting on. Or buy some dynomax stainless clamps and don't ever worry. Or even buy some stainless nuts would help on zinc clamps.

Regarding stance...you may see it settle down slightly if standard springs. About 1/2-3/4" usually.

Your roof yes paint and clear it to seal it up well. Once the vinyl roof trim is installed just etch the clear with some 320 grit to assist the adhesion.
But like grand 71 said if using right adhesive it will stick. Cutting the smooth ness off finish will great;y assist.
I would recommend having someone that has expiernce or a professional shop install vinyl.
It is a big noticeable part of car...just like apint and if not done right it will show.

Great job. Dave

  #38  
Old 11-03-2012, 11:27 PM
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Looks real good , Race pros are Pretty loud ,Had a set on my 68 gto with 3' xed and dumped before the rear-end ,i had to pull them off .it wont hurt to clear coat the top and install the cover , Get some band claps for the exhaust they don't leak from my experience.

  #39  
Old 11-04-2012, 12:59 AM
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Thanks for the advice guys, keep it coming. Pretty well set on the base coat on the top without clear since it is home from paint guy already. But still good to know and I dont plan on car seein alot of moisture, so hopefully it is sealed up ok.

  #40  
Old 11-04-2012, 06:57 PM
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Not sure if heavy duty springs or not. They are original stock springs. Car did have AC if that matters. Regarding that. I dont want to install AC right now. Can I put the condenser box on the firewall and just seal up the holes that will not be used? I dont really want to buy an AC delete panel as I may decide to install AC later.

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