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  #201  
Old 08-18-2005, 05:53 PM
PetesPonies PetesPonies is offline
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In your garage.........you bolt a plate to one side and put it in the vice. You bolt a lever to the other end and twist it which ever way you think it needs to go. These noses are twisted when needed at shops.

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  #202  
Old 08-18-2005, 10:55 PM
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pete, exactly what i had in mind - already drew up a couple 4 foot 1x2's with brackets for the nose to bolt onto, hopefully being long enuf to allow plenty of leverage and still be prcise.
now gotta find 4 people....
thanks a lot

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  #203  
Old 08-20-2005, 05:34 PM
PetesPonies PetesPonies is offline
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let me also say one other thing...lets assume for a minute that the nose is NOT tweaked. At the front lower part of the fenders, there are two bolt holes. I have realized that by moving the lower part of the front fenders at these points, moves the upper outer edges of the fenders, where the nose contacts. You may have already tried this, but I get a good deal of movement at the nose contact area just by moving the lower fender at these two bolt holes. It moving out and in, so maybe that is something to try. Perhaps you did not bolt up this area yet, or maybe you bolted it solid?? Just a thought.

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  #204  
Old 08-24-2005, 10:48 PM
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Default 73 t/a pics

Here are some pics of a couple of my early t/a's. They are both numbers matching cars. The gas tank feel out while I was towing it and I lost the rear valance on the trip home.
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  #205  
Old 08-24-2005, 10:50 PM
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Default 70 numbers matching t/a

I towed this car back from Ohio with a tow dolly and only lost the exhaust on the way home.
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  #206  
Old 08-24-2005, 10:55 PM
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Default Here is a pic of the triplets

70 ra 4 4 speed
70 ra 3 4 speed
70 ra 3 auto
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  #207  
Old 08-24-2005, 11:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beebe
greyno3 - Thanks for the props.....

Well IT all began back in 1992.........

When I had the car painted their were no reproduction tail light bezels. AND I was not about to spend alot of $$$$$$ for a set of nice used bezels. So I decided to go with the black-out theme. I had a set of pitted headlight buckets and Tail light bezels and it all went from their.

I had the trim , bezels, door handles all painted similar to the chassis black , mostly flat with a little bit of gloss. It has held up good over the years. I have about 10,000 street miles on the car. The only pieces that did not hold the paint the best (Im guessing due to the smooth finish) is the wheel well trim and the front windshield trim. Im sure the windshield trim get the most abuse from road debri (sp??) .

Beebe, I thought you just bought that car last year???

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  #208  
Old 08-24-2005, 11:30 PM
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Weranc55, nice set of triplets.

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  #209  
Old 08-25-2005, 01:42 PM
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Default My '71 T/A

Here's mine. It's an original (code 26) Lucerne Blue car, numbers-matching 455 HO/4 spd, blue deluxe interior, AM/FM with rear speaker, front AND rear consoles and tinted windshield, Van Nuys built car.
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  #210  
Old 08-25-2005, 08:47 PM
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Werance55 You going to fix that car?? well have too see the details

  #211  
Old 08-25-2005, 10:17 PM
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I have other resto projects right now and doubt that I will try to restore the 70 and 73. The two are just to far gone.

  #212  
Old 08-25-2005, 11:42 PM
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pete, i didnt realize that and will give it a shot this weekend - thanks much for the help.

weranc - you got balls, man.
was that car an artificial reef somewhere before you rescued it???

if yer not fixing the white car, i'm interested in the spoiler end caps, front spoiler, and front spats, and the nose if it's in good shape.

let me know, please

thanks

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  #213  
Old 08-26-2005, 12:35 AM
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I need the parts from that 70 for another car I have. Actually the car looks worse than it is. The floors have no holes in them and neither does the trunk floor. The worst part about he car is the cowl rusted where the trim tag is and would need to be replaced. If that was solid I would have tried to save it. The origianal motor has a rod through the side of it. I found it in OH and unfortunatly someone put a tarp over if since 78 and thats why it rusted so bad.

  #214  
Old 08-26-2005, 01:13 PM
poncho-mike poncho-mike is offline
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That 70 is probably the most rusty car I've seen that was all in one piece. I bought a 70 T/A Ram III auto out of Bluefield WV several years ago. It was bad, but it wasn't as bad as that one.

  #215  
Old 08-26-2005, 01:20 PM
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If I had a lot of spare time I would get it running and take it to the t/a national.

  #216  
Old 08-27-2005, 02:50 PM
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Speedshop..... I am now trying to align my front bumper/nose and am have a dickens of a time myself. Let me tell you all, a Mustang is much easier to align. Did you end up getting your to fit? I seem to be having problems with the fact that there are so many variables. I can get it to close up to the fender, but then I loose it somewhere else (

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  #217  
Old 08-29-2005, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PetesPonies
my latest pic of the 70/79 TA clone
? - Am I to understand that the car you showed there is actually a 1979 T/A being turned into a 1970 T/A??... I can't help but think converting a 1975-1981 rear window to a 1970-1974 rear window would be tough...

  #218  
Old 08-29-2005, 07:03 PM
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WEarnace55, hows the rear frames on that 1970? set of quarters and a couple doors, the cowl area is a big job, but easier in my mind than the rear frames. "starts a save the '70 campaingn" Love to see that running at the Nats, just like it is!!, they have a drivers class?, well, project class?

  #219  
Old 08-29-2005, 10:44 PM
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The raills are perfect. The car is inside and not going anywhere. Maybe in a few years it wiil be worth doing. I just need to stop taking parts from it for my other cars

  #220  
Old 08-30-2005, 10:16 PM
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pete, i havent done mine yet - it's just been kinda sitting.
hoping this weekend.
have determined all is well except the nose does indeed have a twist; rest of the car has lined up squarer then Potsie from happy days, according to me old measuring tape and me even older eyeballs.
what i have found is the main nose brackets really dont wanna do what i want them to, so i got best results leaving the brkt to frame bolts loose as a goose, then fighting it into best position, tightening everything but those main bolts noted above, fighting it more, then torquing the mains down.
i also have a buttload of shims nearly everywhere related to the nose - over an inch on the lower bolts tween nose and brackets, and near an inch on the rubber donuts just under the core support that sit on long studs.

i've no idea if im spoed to need this many shims; i sure didnt have so many on my old 73....but, i see zero way around it.

im welding up the nose twister tool this weekend, welcome to borrow it after im done or give you a copy of the blues for it. (not that there's much to it)

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