Suspension TECH Including Brakes, Wheels and tires

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  #21  
Old 01-12-2021, 11:13 AM
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I've done both, epoxy and powder coat, and as stated above, paint is easier to touch up, and in some cases more durable.

The powder coat I recently did scratches easy. You can buff or polish it out, but epoxy doesn't scratch as easy.

Yes on clean up/reinforce the welds. You may even want to have it checked for straightness too.

Yes on Eastwood internal frame coating, but do it before assembly. The stuff is like a light green, and it can shoot out or ooze of holes/seams. You want to be able to clean it up after it shoots out.

If you powder coat, you may have to ream certain holes. The ones you ream you can hit with clear engine enamel so rust won't creep from that spot.

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  #22  
Old 01-12-2021, 03:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HWYSTR455 View Post
Yes on Eastwood internal frame coating, but do it before assembly. The stuff is like a light green, and it can shoot out or ooze of holes/seams. You want to be able to clean it up after it shoots out.
Eastwood offers the internal frame coating in black also, but I absolutely agree about doing it before painting the outside of the frame. I found it pretty difficult to use when doing my frame. It's very thin and makes a mess everywhere.

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  #23  
Old 01-12-2021, 04:01 PM
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Had the frame. rad. support fender liners and all suspension parts powder coated about 10 years ago.
It cost $600.00 then to powder coat the frame.
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  #24  
Old 01-12-2021, 05:03 PM
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This is all great info. I used POR-15 on all my stuff back around 2000 when I did my car. Rented a sandblaster and tow-behind air compressor and blasted my subframe, the underside of the body shell, and a bunch of other stuff in my driveway. If I had it to do all over again, I'd use the epoxy primer. POR is decent, but that primer seems easier to work with.

Does it contain cyanoacrylates? The POR does and it's not well explained in their literature, or at least it wasn't back then, probably because they tell you to just brush it on. I got way better results by thinning slightly and spraying it but that exposed me to a lot more of the cyanoacrylates. I'm still alive and relatively healthy 20 years later, so I guess it wasn't as bad as it could've been but still...

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Old 01-14-2021, 03:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roger1 View Post
SPI epoxy on the bare frame is what you want to do. Adhesion is the best you can get that way.

Etching primer is really a thing of the past. Epoxy primers are the way to go. Also note that epoxy primer should never be sprayed over etching primer period.
Not only that but a sandlbasted frame is already sufficiently etched.

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  #26  
Old 01-14-2021, 06:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Will View Post
Does it contain cyanoacrylates? The POR does and it's not well explained in their literature, or at least it wasn't back then, probably because they tell you to just brush it on. I got way better results by thinning slightly and spraying it but that exposed me to a lot more of the cyanoacrylates. I'm still alive and relatively healthy 20 years later, so I guess it wasn't as bad as it could've been but still...
SPI epoxy doesn't contain cyanoacrylates nor does it contain any isocyanates.

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  #27  
Old 01-15-2021, 05:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roger1 View Post
SPI epoxy doesn't contain cyanoacrylates nor does it contain any isocyanates.
Isocyanates is what I was thinking of. I knew cyanoacrylates wasn't quite right. Maybe that stuff did cook my brain after all.

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