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The Body Shop TECH General questions that don't fit in any other forum |
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#1
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Finally feel like I am making progress
Thought I would share an update, as progress pics from others have helped me stay motivated over the years.
The body work phase of this restoration has felt like an epic challenge and it is through sheer stubbornness (and maybe a lack of common sense) that I have not quit. I have literally spent 10 full years on the metalwork and bodywork phase, while a restoration shop would probably take only part of a year. My goal from the start was to do everything myself (except the engine machine work), and that's what I have done so far. While the metal work part was fun and enjoyable, the bodywork part has sucked. I have made a ton of mistakes. Spent a ton of time and money on products to sand panels back to bare metal and start over, and have finally got things where I thought they should be before attempting to paint. To start seeing the final colour on panels is such an accomplishment for me, and while I still have the body and front end to do, I feel encouraged. Especially rewarding is looking at the panels in the light and seeing that the million hours of block sanding was, in fact, worthwhile and did really work as advertised!! One thing I now realize, is that learning to spray SPI epoxy has been a great teacher, as it is somewhat fussy to apply properly and in all honesty, I found applying the paint to be significantly easier. (Probably helps that I have shot at least 4 gallons of primer before taking a chance on paint!) I sprayed SPI epoxy as a sealer reduced 25% (later reduced 33% as found it easier to get correct), then after 2 hours I shot R-M UNO-HD single stage in original Cardinal Red. Applied 2 coats on backside of trunk and doors, and 4 coats on exterior of trunk and doors. I wanted the extra film build so I could colour sand any dust or mistakes. I have a few small fisheyes and some light orange peel so think this was a good call. (A test on spray out cards showed 3 coats was full coverage, and I think I am actually applying a bit more paint on the panels than I did on the cards.) Overall I am very, very pleased with the outcome so far. No major boo-boos, no runs (one slight sag on rear valance), and orange peel got better as I increased fluid setting and got more comfortable with the gun (Devilbiss GFG-670). Man that gun is nice and fast...I have been using a Devilbiss FLG3 for priming panels or painting small parts, and the GFG is just awesome in comparison. I bought it 5 years ago just for final paint and wish I had used it before now!! Anyways, enough rambling. Thanks for looking.
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Michael Oshawa built 1 option Judge basket case. 463, SD KRE 295's, CNC'd factory intake, Cliff's Qjet, Stump Puller HR cam, RARE RA manifolds, Pypes exhaust, T56 Magnum, McLeod RXT clutch, 3.42 12 bolt. 24 year project almost done... |
#2
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More pics
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Michael Oshawa built 1 option Judge basket case. 463, SD KRE 295's, CNC'd factory intake, Cliff's Qjet, Stump Puller HR cam, RARE RA manifolds, Pypes exhaust, T56 Magnum, McLeod RXT clutch, 3.42 12 bolt. 24 year project almost done... |
#3
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You can be proud of that. Looks very good!
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#4
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I have literally spent 10 full years on the metalwork and bodywork phase, while a restoration shop would probably take only part of a year.
Your work looks good! I guarantee you that a restoration shop would have it longer than you think and it may or may not come out as good as you are doing. 👍
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" Darksiders Rule "
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#5
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You should be really happy with that. Thanks for posting. You may think it took a while but what you did paid off. Nice!
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#6
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Probably doesn't matter on a non metallic paint but should the panels be painted as they would hang on the car?
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72 lemans,455 e-head, UD 255/263 solid flat,3.73 gears,,,10" 4400 converter,, 6.68 at 101.8 mph,,1.44 60 ft.2007 (cam 271/278 roller)9"CC.4.11gear 6.41 at 106.32 mph 1.42 60 ft.(2009) SOLD,SOLD 1970 GTO 455 4 speed #matching,, 3.31 posi.Stock manifolds. # 64 heads.A factory mint tuquoise ,69' judge stripe car. 8.64 @ 87.3 mph on slippery street tires.Bad 2.25 60ft.Owned since 86' |
#7
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Congratulations on making it to final paint. There will be complements on the paint but you know the countless hours of metal-bodywork it took to get there. Excellent job.
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#8
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Thanks for the kind words!
Regarding the orientation of parts for painting, I checked a lot of painting forums about this before I started and also spoke with a few guys that restore cars and the advice I got was that with solid colours with no metallic it really didn't matter. Probably more concern about changes in humidity day to day or differences in paint cans. I bought 1.5 gallons of paint and mixed it all in a big tub and then put in individual quart cans before I started, so should be no issues with that.
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Michael Oshawa built 1 option Judge basket case. 463, SD KRE 295's, CNC'd factory intake, Cliff's Qjet, Stump Puller HR cam, RARE RA manifolds, Pypes exhaust, T56 Magnum, McLeod RXT clutch, 3.42 12 bolt. 24 year project almost done... |
#9
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Looks good! Yeah the body work is definitely the challenge. It took me years to get to the point of being fairly quick at it and my 69 gto still has 60 hrs into the filler work and urathane primer.
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1969 GTO street strip project 11.1 forged 461, highport heads 1995 Trans-am 420 ci sb 14:1 compression 9"ford 9.89@132 1.34 60ft SOLD! |
#10
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Looks great and congrats! It is quite a feeling!
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-Jeremy 1968 GTO 4-spd convertible, console, factory gauges, hidden headlights, 3.90:1 posi, AM/FM radio. 1962 Catalina convertible, Starlight black w maroon interior & white top. |
#11
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Looks great! I know what you mean about getting inspiration from other folk's builds. I joined in 2014 when I bought a Solar Red 68 Convertible. I thought about unloading it a few times but I'm still plugging away.
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#12
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Looking good and your persistence is paying off. I like how clean you keep your work area, makes everything better. I see the wall filters in a few of the pictures. How do you route your air flow?
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#13
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Love the paint room. Is that velcro curtain door for access ? Your producing some nice finishes on those parts thats for sure.
Thanks for sharing. |
#14
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Looks Great !
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#15
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I think it looks awesome! Please keep the forum updated as you progress. You are gonna have one bitchin’ ride when you’re done. Well done!
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#16
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Quote:
I have a 2 speed exhaust fan in the far wall, and set it on low and slowed down to about 75% using a fan control. Any faster and it pulls really hard on the walls. There is a 2x3" screwed and sealed to the ceiling and another sitting on the floor that makes up the perimeter. 1x3" strapping spaced 4' apart all the way around and attached to L brackets for quick removal. 6 mil plastic sheeting and then I installed 2 self stick zippers to make an L shaped opening. Filters are 3M small particle (2200 series, 20x25x1"), sitting in framed openings. All openings, floor, ceiling, and filter openings sealed with tape. I also spray the floor with water before painting to cut down on dust. Even after all this, and wearing a paint suit I still get dust. A ton of work for 1 paint job but think it is worth it.
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Michael Oshawa built 1 option Judge basket case. 463, SD KRE 295's, CNC'd factory intake, Cliff's Qjet, Stump Puller HR cam, RARE RA manifolds, Pypes exhaust, T56 Magnum, McLeod RXT clutch, 3.42 12 bolt. 24 year project almost done... Last edited by mrennie; 08-15-2020 at 08:11 PM. |
#17
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Pic of exhaust fan
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Michael Oshawa built 1 option Judge basket case. 463, SD KRE 295's, CNC'd factory intake, Cliff's Qjet, Stump Puller HR cam, RARE RA manifolds, Pypes exhaust, T56 Magnum, McLeod RXT clutch, 3.42 12 bolt. 24 year project almost done... |
#18
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Even with a down draft spray booth.....dust nibs are still the enemy. Have you evah watched the Lamborghini building and painting process on TV....even with their sterile environment....they show you the de nibbling and polishing process. . It’s best to spray on a rainy day...with a new paint suit with a hood....wet your floor ( like you did) . And tack off the panels aftah every coat ...when using base coat ....can’t do that with single stage though.. Are you using a final wash with lint free wipes ..then tacking ....before spraying ? What type of gun and cup are you using ? Dirt can come from a dirty cap and nozzle...and spray passages in the gun. Those disposable 3M bladders and lids are the hot set up...and have a built in strainer.Also run a screw on air filter on your gun too.
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#19
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Quote:
Paint gun is a Devilbiss GFG-670 with aluminum quart cup. I break my guns down after each use and scrub everything with brushes and lacquer thinner, then reassemble and put away until next time. I use a spin on filter on the paint guns as well as the air blow gun. Interestingly, when I paint small parts in the winter I have a garage heater going, lots of air flow, and only plastic sheets draped along the sides od the garage (no air filters) to cut down on overspray on my tools, and get zero dust...but humidity is around 30% then. I suspect when it is that dry there is more static keeping the dust from moving around.
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Michael Oshawa built 1 option Judge basket case. 463, SD KRE 295's, CNC'd factory intake, Cliff's Qjet, Stump Puller HR cam, RARE RA manifolds, Pypes exhaust, T56 Magnum, McLeod RXT clutch, 3.42 12 bolt. 24 year project almost done... |
#20
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Very creative on the booth. I built a cross draft inside my 30x30 shop using traditional framing and finished Masonite panels.
Hopefully one day, I'll be using it for the 68. |
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