[scott70]

I got some aftermarket rocker panels molding and these four screws and inserts came with it. Is this the way the factory did it? I also ordered all new clips that hook to the rocker panel to hold the molding on and these four screws and inserts came with it and I'm assuming these four screws and inserts are the ones that hold the ends of the rocker molding to the quarter panel and the front fender. Just curious if the factory use these inserts or if they just screw directly to the metal panel.

[70gteeo]

You only need two of them for the front fenders. One on each side. The rear screw directly into the body.

[HWYSTR455]

The front fenders from the factory had slots, that plastic piece is to allow for a certain amount of body movement, because the frame use rubber body mounts, and moves around.

I used solid bushings, so I used just a screw in the front and back, we'll see how it works out. There's still movement with solid bushings, the frame with the body on it flexes length-wise, not only up/down, but twisting too. It will wrinkle the rocker molding.

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[scott70]

Okay thanks. When I bought the car in 86 the front fenders had already been replaced with NOS fenders and they had screwed a big incorrect screw into the front fender with no nylon insert. And the rear of the molding was also screwed directly to the metal and I have now replaced both rear 1/4's with NOS panels. So after all that I didn't know how the factory actually attached the ends of the rocker panel moldings.So what it sounds like from the factory they use the nylon inserts in the fenders and screw to those and the rear of the moldings screw directly to the rear quarter panels metal.

[HWYSTR455]

I also had some issues with the metal retainers that mount on the rocker, not all were 'even' the entire length, due to how the holes were drilled. You may have to move them slightly by either making the hole in the retainer bigger, or by moving the retainer to a new position.

The lower retainers, also may need to be modified. On mine, I had to move them to a new position, and make them slightly less 'loaded', to reduce the chance of the molding from distorting.

It may take a set or two to find a happy medium.

Making the slots in the fenders is questionable, placement, and width, is critical. The plastic piece will either pop out, or not be in secure enough. And you run the risk of making the slot in the wrong plane along side the body.

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[north]

The screw at the rear goes directly into the rocker panel but there was a nylon spacer (washer) to prevent the molding from caving in. If it's missing I use a small piece of washer jet hose, it holds the screw in place too while you install the molding. Are the repro moldings stainless or aluminum like the originals?

Up to very late in the 69 model run rocker moldings were stamped stainless, late 69's and 70-72 were all aluminum and you can see the color difference (stainless more steel-blue, aluminum more whitish). The 68-69 repros are stainless but too thin, they tend to "wow" especially if the fender and rocker do not align perfect.

[DavesGTO]

Repro moldings are thin.





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[scott70]

These are the anodized aluminum. The original clips for The rocker moldings are still in good shape so if I have to I'll use those. Makes sense that they use something like that nylon washer in the back because you can see that the hole is lower than the edge. Guess I'll have to make up something for the rear like was mentioned for a spacer.

[HWYSTR455]

Yes, forgot to mention the spacers, thanks guys!


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