[bulletpruf]

Originally Posted by shineybike

My car started life very similar to yours. 350, 2bbl, st-300 2-speed auto. Mine had a 2.56 non-posi rear, power drum brakes. Has a paint job from 1980 in close to the original cameo ivory color. I've done some mechanical upgrades...4bbl, dual exhaust, front discs, jeep steering box, 3.23 posi, turbo 400 trans, heavy duty front sway bar, rear sway bar, all new suspension bushings. I've added a GTO hood and the dual gate shifter, wood wheel, tilt column. The interior is still original and it retains all the Lemans badges. Oh, the 350 has not been rebuilt and has about 67,000 original miles. I see it as sort of the best of both worlds, GTO looks but still a Lemans. Have fun with it.. Looks like a nice car.

Sounds like a nice car. Definitely need a tilt column for mine; I'm 6'4" and getting in and out would be easier with a tilt.

Mine has 90k original miles; engine does not leak and doesn't seem to be burning oil, either.

Scott

[nytrainer]

Pontguy, make that 3 in Georgia! Looks nice..
Dave
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/?cmd=...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

[webfoot]

Originally Posted by nytrainer

Pontguy, make that 3 in Georgia! Looks nice..
Dave
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/?cmd=...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

I am not picking on the car, as I believe this is a sharp ride. Rather, just trying to make an observation.

Does it look like this was skinned clear up to the peak of the quarter? (assuming it was) I don't see the concave body line between the center of the quarter and the peak.

I was also surprised to see they said it was meridian turquoise.

[nytrainer]

I can't see it Webfoot. I didn't realize it was an HO car until just now when I read the description (seller says it's a 320 hp 350) I can telol you that these 350 HO's really move! I'm not sure as I have two 4 speed cars but is the column shift showing a 2 speed auto? If so I'm not too sure a 350HO could be had with that trans. I'd want to see the PHS on this one..
Dave

[PontGuy]

I agree the rear 1/4's don't look quite right for a vert, and it may or may not be an original HO. But regardless, it does look like a very nice car. And it IS in Ga.

[north]

Originally Posted by bulletpruf

PHS showed up today - no surprises - checks out as Lemans convt, 350/2bbl, Mayfair w/black top and Parchment interior, P/S P/B, P/W, tinted glass, auto trans, invoiced 9 Apr 68 (21 days after I was born), etc.

PHS shows zone 23 (San Francisco), dealer 139. Does anyone know what dealership this would have been? Car was built in Fremont. Tried to search it at Wallace Racing, but no luck.

Also, can I tell from the PHS what trans and rear gear it came with?

Thanks

Scott

Auto trans means 2spd powerglide (3 speed autos are called Turbohydra on the PHS). I don't have a powertrain sheet in front of me but I'm sure the 2bbl-3peed auto no AC axle was 2.56 but not 100% sure that it was the same with a 2speed auto.

I looked through all my PHS's and no 23139 dealer

[north]

My 69 LeMans is the same color scheme

[bulletpruf]

Originally Posted by north

Auto trans means 2spd powerglide (3 speed autos are called Turbohydra on the PHS). I don't have a powertrain sheet in front of me but I'm sure the 2bbl-3peed auto no AC axle was 2.56 but not 100% sure that it was the same with a 2speed auto.

I looked through all my PHS's and no 23139 dealer

Thanks, John. Did a little digging and found about about the 2 sp auto trans.

2.56 gears would be pretty good on the Salt Flats, but I think there's a 3.55 and a TH350/TH400/700R4 in my future.

Scott

[bulletpruf]

Originally Posted by north

My 69 LeMans is the same color scheme

Very nice! Thanks for the picture.

Scott

[dataway]

I like a fine Lemans just as much as a GTO. When I was 17 I was driving around in a fine 68 Lemans for a while. Verdora, black top, black interior .... just a sharp, fun car to drive. And no big expectations like a GTO has to live with
JohnnyB

[bulletpruf]

Purchased a convertible top switch and hideaway headlight switch from PY members.

Will tackle the brakes this weekend.

Also plan to disassemble, clean, and blast the hideaway setup that I have here. Looks like PY sells most of the parts needed if my stuff isn't working.

Tried to find some 15 x 7 Rally II's that are already painted and ready to go for a reasonable price, but no luck, so I'll repair (dings, road rash) the ones on the car as best as I can and blast and paint them with some of the paint that PY or other vendors sell. Tires are dryrotted, so I guess I'll buy a new set of Radial T/A's or something similar.

No luck yet finding a good 400/428/455 close to home, but that can wait for a while.

Thanks

Scott

[salem1912]

Scott you should sell some more parts and see what comes back. Nice car and I would leave it a LeMans.

[bulletpruf]

It's got a YN block and 17 heads, which matches up. Didn't see the VIN, but it's a Fremont car and I know they weren't consistent on where they stamped the VIN.

Got underneath it today and gave it a good look-see. It's quite nice! Floors are beautiful, frame is very clean, wheelhouses are clean, etc.

Going to blast the 15 x 7 wheels that are on it and put some BFG's on 'em.

Will work on getting brakes fixed up today.

Scott

[bulletpruf]

Rear brakes are about done. Had a difficult time finding the rear flexible hose; no one in town had it. Then I remembered that I had a few leftovers from my 69 Judge beater - yep, I had the right one.

Also saw that the hard line was kinked on the rear housing. Same deal here - thought I had sold my Judge beater leftover stainless line at Moultrie, but it was still sitting on the shelf. Usually works the other way around - - I sell parts and later find that I really need 'em.

Only thing lacking at this point is one of the brake springs - - it took flight as I was trying to install it. Looked for a while but no luck. Wonder what the maximum effective range is on one of these things; it was nowhere near the car. I think I have some leftover Chevelle brake hardware that should work. If not, I need to place an order with Inline Tube; will see if they sell a hardware kit.

Got the tires off the wheels and gave them a good cleaning - - they would actually look pretty darn nice with some trim rings. However, I ordered the Rally II wheel paint kit from Ames, so I might as well use it.

Scott

[petesake]

Scott: I have tons of extra brake springs of you need one. Your local autoparts store will have one too at a reasonable price.

[bulletpruf]

Originally Posted by petesake

Scott: I have tons of extra brake springs of you need one. Your local autoparts store will have one too at a reasonable price.

I should be good. I ordered a booster and a master cylinder from Inline Tube today and got a hardware kit front and rear while I was at it.

To clarify my post below - I had new flexible hose and stainless pre-cut/assembled tubing in my garage; not putting old dry-rotted and worn out stuff on the car. Brakes should be in pretty good shape when I'm done.

Thanks,

Scott

[bulletpruf]

Convertible top switch arrived yesterday from PY member Andre'. Nice looking stuff at a fair price. Came with the wiring harness, too. Now I can get rid of the funky toggle switch that's hanging under the dash.

Also need to figure out why the power convt top will lower by itself but needs a lot of help to raise. Found the motor, but it's not bolted down. Not sure if that matters, but it can't help. Assume it's low on fluid; where does one add fluid to these motors?

Thanks,

Scott

[bulletpruf]

Making some progress.

Rear brakes are done. Inline Tube had the hardware kits that I needed.

Wheels are blasted and painted Argent. Using Ames kit with the decals. Have to apply decals, mask, and paint the Charcoal. Looks pretty good so far. Not sure if I'm going to run trim rings or not. Once the wheels are done, I'll pick up some BFG Radial T/A's - probably 235/60/15 all around.

Trans fluid and filter changed. Was able to find a filter for the ST 300 at the local Advance Auto. Looks like I have the wrong dipstick (anyone know where to get one?), however, and not sure how much fluid to put in it. I put in 3 quarts but don't know if this is enough.

Changed rear diff oil and verified peg leg with 2.56 gears.

Waiting on the booster from Inline before I can finish up the brakes. Have to do the fronts, too, but I have everything I need (flex hoses, hardware, wheel cylinders; shoes are good).

Once wheels and brakes are done, I just need to figure out the starting issue before I can use it as a driver.

Thanks

Scott

[cas]

Originally Posted by bulletpruf

Convertible top switch arrived yesterday from PY member Andre'. Nice looking stuff at a fair price. Came with the wiring harness, too. Now I can get rid of the funky toggle switch that's hanging under the dash.

Also need to figure out why the power convt top will lower by itself but needs a lot of help to raise. Found the motor, but it's not bolted down. Not sure if that matters, but it can't help. Assume it's low on fluid; where does one add fluid to these motors?

Thanks,

Scott

should be a rubber plug in the motor/pump assembly. faces trunk. pull out plug and add fluid there. run top up and down several times to get all the air out of the lines. check for leaks at the cylinders and the fittings.
good luck with the endura and the hide-aways. I'm having a hell of a time getting endura/hood/fender gaps looking decent. then onto getting new hide-away parts

Chris

[bulletpruf]

Originally Posted by cas

should be a rubber plug in the motor/pump assembly. faces trunk. pull out plug and add fluid there. run top up and down several times to get all the air out of the lines. check for leaks at the cylinders and the fittings.
good luck with the endura and the hide-aways. I'm having a hell of a time getting endura/hood/fender gaps looking decent. then onto getting new hide-away parts

Chris

Thanks, Chris. That's helpful.

Scott