#41  
Old 12-12-2014, 05:23 PM
pknopp pknopp is offline
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All fluids drained and the lines that run to the underseat heater removed.

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  #42  
Old 12-13-2014, 02:20 PM
pknopp pknopp is offline
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Engine is out. Pretty much to the point of no return. LOL



I had hoped to never pull this thing again the last time.



There has to be something that will just fit in this place that is a dual system, no?



I really want to keep the heater as it will be street driven more than anything. I realize I can move the heater but that seems to be a real hassle. The underseat heater will not be hooked up. I'll probably cut and seal the blower tube.

I'm also open to cam suggestions. Something that is going to be streetable. Also, the only numbers I found on the rear was 620762. Are there others somewhere or?
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  #43  
Old 12-17-2014, 09:54 AM
PRC PRC is offline
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[QUOTE=pknopp;5320648]Engine is out. Pretty much to the point of no return. LOL

[
There has to be something that will just fit in this place that is a dual system, no?


I really want to keep the heater as it will be street driven more than anything. I realize I can move the heater but that seems to be a real hassle. The underseat heater will not be hooked up. I'll probably cut and seal the blower tube. )end quote



Check out Wilwood's mini master cylinder. It may fit in the same location as the original MC. My car has the MC mounted on the frame but after the project was complete I learned about the Wilwood mini. I never bothered getting the dimensions for it since my brakes were already complete so I can't say for sure it will fit but you may want to investigate that route.

As far as a heater, my car no longer has the underseat heater but uses an aftermarket underdash heater. The original defroster box was retained and is functional.

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  #44  
Old 12-17-2014, 11:51 AM
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I may have posted this for you before but this Scarebird bracket is made to bolt in on the frame and use the Wilwood cylinder.

https://scarebird.com/index.php?rout...product_id=123

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  #45  
Old 12-18-2014, 11:33 AM
pknopp pknopp is offline
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I saw that but here is what I am wondering (work all this week so not able to deal with the Pontiac). I saw that bracket and I saw the dual M/C that would be easy enough but the factory is on the side of the frame. Can I use one of these in that manner?

If it's just welding a bracket to the side of the frame and inserting the dual unit, no problem. (I have to think one could make a bracket for next to nothing).

  #46  
Old 12-18-2014, 04:36 PM
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That bracket was made after a thread was posted on here from Scarebird asking for pictures of old master cylinders. I posted a few pics of the frame and measurements and a bracket was made. I currently don't know of anyone running the set up though.

The pattern for the 2 holes for the currant m/c would need to be made on the bracket and bolted to the frame. Just need to figure out how to position it first to figure where the holes go. I don't think the bracket would be too hard to make, but it is nice since it's ready to go and plated.

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  #47  
Old 12-18-2014, 05:06 PM
pknopp pknopp is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Eveland View Post
That bracket was made after a thread was posted on here from Scarebird asking for pictures of old master cylinders. I posted a few pics of the frame and measurements and a bracket was made. I currently don't know of anyone running the set up though.

The pattern for the 2 holes for the currant m/c would need to be made on the bracket and bolted to the frame. Just need to figure out how to position it first to figure where the holes go. I don't think the bracket would be too hard to make, but it is nice since it's ready to go and plated.
Cool then. It's difficult to tell sometimes with a picture on the internet with no context and I don't want to order things just to send back.

  #48  
Old 12-30-2014, 03:04 PM
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Not stalled. Not much done because of the holidays. (outside of taking some taking some dings out of oil pan) but getting the engine ready to go back together.

For a refresher.....the engine is a 64 389. Originally a standard 267/400 389. I'm still going with the tri power. I almost bought a dual 4 intake but the car will be driven more than see track time. M21 and I will get headers figured out. I'm thinking about going with this cam.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lun-10510702

Any thoughts?

  #49  
Old 12-31-2014, 09:01 PM
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Yup.........it's kinda tame with the short duration but it'd make a good "grunt" cam for low RPM power. Be careful with the .489 lift. The retainers may want to kiss the tops of the valve seals at full lift. I'm running PC-style seals and I had to shorten the bottoms of my retainers about .050- .060" to keep the bottoms of them from contacting the tops of the seals. Your mileage may vary.
I set mine up with one Isky test valve spring just to check clearances and I'm glad I did. BTW, I also used a Lunati cam but it's got .490 lift on both intake and exhaust.

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Old 01-07-2015, 03:03 PM
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Bit of a crossroads trying to determine the best way to go. I can get this excellent front end for a fraction of a Speedway kit. It just came off a fully restored truck but the guy wanted IFS. (early 50's style)



How can I make this work with the least amount of fuss?
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  #51  
Old 01-07-2015, 04:50 PM
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For starters the lf steering arm that goes to the gearbox needs removed and one added to the top of the rh spindle so it will be converted to cross steer. One of your 56 arms should work I believe. If your going disc brakes than probably not and will have to get a flat arm from speedway if your going to use a heim joint draglink. Just get one for whatever your using for a draglink set up. I'm using heim joints on mine. Speedway sells custom ones at an extra cost, but it's cheaper to get a longer one and cut off the rh thread end and buy a 5/8 tap. This worked out good, once the ball stud was removed from the pitman arm the 5/8 bolt fit perfect in the hole.

Gussets will need to be added to the inside of the frame like on mine to make up for the spring width. My thread on the Hamb should have the the pics needed to give you a good idea to convert the crossmember to mount the springs to it.

If you wanted disc than kits are available from Speedway or whatever. I used their springs and hardware with their Gasser kit. The truck springs are pretty long and easier to set up with the shorter 30" springs from speedway. I did end up getting some longer spring mounts to get some more height front end. Any place that sells trailer parts should have them.

If you want to keep drums, 49ish to 54 Pontiac hubs ,drums should work for a 5 bolt pattern and buy the conversion bearings for the early trucks to convert the early Pontiac hubs to tapered bearings. Both the truck and earlier Pontiacs use the same bearing and seal set up.

Personally I like the look of the factory axle over the speedway one and it's a much nicer piece as far as strength.

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Last edited by Bill Eveland; 01-07-2015 at 04:59 PM.
  #52  
Old 01-07-2015, 05:16 PM
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Bill, that is what I was thinking (looks). I really don't mind the drums at all, I was just thinking if I ever sell everyone wants discs. After this much work I hope I never want to sell. LOL

I can get this set up for less than a 1/4 of a Speedway kit. (Money is a consideration) It has 5 lug 4.75 on it. It came off a restored truck but the guy wanted IFS with discs. I also have an old set of T.T. for drum brakes that I would have liked to use so I'm thinking this should work O.K. there. 5X4.75. (Just going to run plain Steel 61 Cadillac rims in back).

  #53  
Old 01-07-2015, 05:36 PM
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My ET wheels are 14" and set up for drums but got them to fit over my disc brakes with some work. If your wheels are 15" it should have plenty more clearance. If the kingpins are decent it shouldn't take too much work than to use this axle.

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  #54  
Old 01-09-2015, 06:57 AM
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If you still want to use the early bellhousing this adaptor plate will work.The main proplem will be that the 64 block is 1/4" longer than the early block plus the plate is 1/4" thick as well.To use this plate you will have to cut the starter plate on the adaptor off at the bottom .you may also have to make a spacer for the starter moter as it might be to deep.But if you want to do I think you can.The plate shown is being set up to adapt early engine to late chev or pontiac trans.The plate has all the holes you will need you just have to pick witch ones to drill or tap.
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  #55  
Old 01-19-2015, 08:38 PM
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So I went and got this.....now I just need to figure out how to put it all together.

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  #56  
Old 01-19-2015, 08:58 PM
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Love this thread!!!

  #57  
Old 01-20-2015, 04:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gavin View Post
If you still want to use the early bellhousing this adaptor plate will work.The main proplem will be that the 64 block is 1/4" longer than the early block plus the plate is 1/4" thick as well.To use this plate you will have to cut the starter plate on the adaptor off at the bottom .you may also have to make a spacer for the starter moter as it might be to deep.But if you want to do I think you can.The plate shown is being set up to adapt early engine to late chev or pontiac trans.The plate has all the holes you will need you just have to pick witch ones to drill or tap.
Where did you get that adapter? I need one for my 59 block and later trans. Thanks.
BTW- great thread about these cool old Pontiacs!

  #58  
Old 01-20-2015, 12:20 PM
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So I had to at least set it in place.



Now this is nothing like it will be. 99% decided to cut the frame off in front of the steering box and build a 2X3 box frame. It should give me more room and actually make things easier. This came out of a 51 so it's the tapered springs (probably going to have to have them re-arched. Living in podunk the only place I know that does them is an hour away). It will also solve the timing cover issue. I won't have to use it as a mounting point.

I note all of this as I'm open to any suggestions. After a bunch of looking the only solution I can come to us to buy small block fenderwell headers and Pontiac flanges and combine them. I think this will look neater than making a set from scratch. I'll be removing the vent for the underseat heater.

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  #59  
Old 01-28-2015, 05:11 PM
pknopp pknopp is offline
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I got the frame cut. I'm certainly to the point of no return now. I noted that I'm doing this at my buddies garage and I decided to put a new water pump on. He just called and had it delivered (that's pretty cool LOL). Anyway I thought the delivery guy was going to cry as we started cutting. LOL

I don't know what happened with the engine pic. Stalled waiting on a double roller timing set. Hopefully it will be here tomorrow. I hopefully will have the new rails at least tacked in tomorrow.






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  #60  
Old 01-28-2015, 08:43 PM
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Just noticed the spotlights, thats not gasser material haha.

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