[68ragtop]

Anyone know if the original tie rod ends were smaller than most aftermarkets are? I bought the GM re-pop dust boots & they are a lot smaller than the ones that came with the Moogs I originally installed. I can make them fit, but are awfully snug. Seems to me they would split apart at some point.

[gto4evr]

it depends what's going on with your parts. original 68 tie rod ends were smaller diameters than the later 70-72 stuff so not interchangeable piece by piece, but if you change out the entire inner/outer/sleeve, then you're better off with the beefier later setups. I started changing out all mine back when I first got into this game centuries ago when I first tried to change a tie rod on my 68 and found the sleeve bent. setup on my 71 was thicker and looked much more heavy duty.

The numbers on the earlier small diameter stuff is ES681N, ES633RL and ES2032S. complete swap to the heavier ones of ES406L, ES406R and ES2004S I'm usually a stickler for originality, but when it comes to the tie rods, I don't like the pencil thin originals of the earlier ones. GM changed that to a bigger diameter for a reason!

okay, that was a tangent from your original question, the original GM boots had a flat on the top where it rides under the steering arm. I've never seen an aftermarket that looked the same but they seem to do the job.

[68ragtop]

I just have Moog replacements from years back when I started my restoration. The boots split & when I was over other things to order I saw the original style boots so I ordered 4 of those. I can get them over the Moogs, but they are snug.

I'll post a picture or two

[68ragtop]

A couple picts:

[gto4evr]

okay, I thought you were talking about the socket end, but I think you're referring to the shaft itself so the rubber isn't sliding easy over the tapered shaft that goes up into the steering knuckle. That diameter and taper is the same aftermarket as original (has to be to fit) and is the same shaft diameter for the 68/69 as well as the 70-72 thicker ones (thicker in the tie rod body, but same tapered shaft that goes into the knuckle.

You should be fine, the tighter the better (within reason) because that way, the rubber only pushes down as deep as it needs for the tapered shaft to seat in the knuckle when you tighten it. That will keep a tighter seal with the bottom. Don't forget to rub a little grease on that flat section. The cup versions don't need it but the flat top does so when you're turning the steering you don't rub and rip up the rubber as the tie rods move through the arc of the wheel turn.

[68ragtop]

Sorry, I should have explained myself a lot better. I was only concerned with the width being wider & stretching the boot too much. Thinking maybe the originals where smaller & thats why the boots where so small? I added an arrow to the area in question.

Should have done that on the first post. Sorry

[gto4evr]

ah, okay, I was still wrong. Here's an ebay link to an NOS boot. It does look like it won't cover down over the edge as well as I remember the originals, but It'll be no worse than the millions of TRW and Moog tie rod ends sold in the past 50 years that barely fit over the edge either. The edges will kinda seat themselves once you pump it full of grease and the rubber is allowed to find it's home over the top. I think you're fine. I found an NOS tie rod. does appear that the socket was more rounded to help the rubber seat down deeper.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-67-68-6...oAAOSwpQ1awriK

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-1970-C...p2047675.l2557

[68ragtop]

Check out those NOS prices. Ouchy. Glad I am not making my car that correct. Yikes.

[north]

Yup, a total of $300 for only one of four tie rod ends you need on a car!

[68ragtop]

Here's a NOS boot for $75 & it comes with a free NOS H body tie rod. I did a nut & bolt restoration on a Monza Spyder 10 years ago. Some parts were cheap & some very expensive.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/163050857148?ul_noapp=true


I installed the boots over my aftermarket tire rods. The stretched over & look fine. I'm guessing they will probably split eventually depending on what type of "rubber" they are made out of. Time will tell.

[68ragtop]

For the record, the replacements I showed above didn't hold up. 18 months & they are loaded with cracks. The car never driven, just the boots stretched over the aftermarket rods.

Glad I didn't buy the Crazy priced NOS ones.

I wonder what will hold up?

[dataway]

Most of my suspension components are about five years old, some less ... pretty much all of them starting to crack. Just went back to Moog sway bar struts from the re-pop type ... noticed the Moog rubber spacers say "made in USA" on them and appear to be a much different material ... harder, shinier ... almost poly hard in your hand but they compress nicely when installed. The re-pop rubber spacers were all cracking after a couple years in the garage.

All my tie rod boots look smushed too much. I've got Moog outsides and re-pop inners (to get the grease fitting in the right place)

[68ragtop]

Here's a picture. Its not from stretching a bit more, both sides are bad. These are the boots from above.
Crazy they didn't last much more than a year & never used. installed and thats it.

Haven't even driven the car yet.

.

[dataway]

Yepper ... that is exactly what mine look like.

[68ragtop]

Originally Posted by dataway

Yepper ... that is exactly what mine look like.

I guess when I made my first post above I didn't think it would be so quick. Its not just the fact that they are stretched to the larger joints, even the small side is cracking up.

Are the other suppliers all made from the same material?
Assuming there are multiple sources for these?

[dataway]

BTW ... what did you paint your tie-rods with? Looks better than the "spray gray" that I used ... which really isn't the right color anyway.

Probably multiple suppliers all using the same crap .. except if you go to something like the blue ones. Why the freak they would make them blue I don't know.