[Sirrotica]

Originally Posted by 68ragtop

Thanks!

I just looked up the MSDS of both greases that I have, & both are silicone based, which I believe can't be mixed with DOT3. I wouldn't think anything could get into the cylinders., especially if I use it lightly, But I suppose there is a chance. maybe I should just use std wheel bearing grease.

Which is just as bad as silicone, neither should be in a system with DOT 3 fluid.

If it were me I would use a piece of clear tubing that fits tight on the bleed screw and let it gravity bleed into a container until there are no bubbles in the tubing. Done without any fluid getting on your fresh paint. Feel free to reject any of my suggestions if you feel the fluid may ruin your paint.

[68ragtop]

thats my plan, I have the clear tubing & it fits very tightly to the nipple of the bleeders. Going to start the bleeding with vacuum & let it gravity drip. I just didn't want any fluid to squeak past the threads of the bleeder. The grease idea was just a little insurance so it would only go out the bleeder tip, & none around the threads.

I wonder what they used on those "self bleeders" with the check valve. those must have had some sort of thread sealant. I Never really saw the point in those things...

I did this same process with a car I restored about 10 years ago & had no fluid get past the threads, with nothing on them. At that time I never even thought about it. But I have had some bad luck on this car. Trying to minimize potential problems as I am so close to finished.


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[Sirrotica]

A single wrap of teflon tape on the threaded part of the screws and just leave it on them after your done. Make certain the bleed hole is uncovered, if any shows on the outside of the threads you can rip it off with a pick tool for judging.

[b-man]

Gravity bleeder here.

Quick and easy. Worked great on my ‘56 VW bus with the master under the floor, I just let all of the wheels hang down with the chassis supported on jack stands.

If any DOT 3 fluid gets on your paint quickly rinse with water and no damage will be done to the paint.

[68ragtop]

So as long as we are talking about all of this, how often does a small air pocket get trapped in the distribution block? Sure its a small area, but there is a space for air to get trapped given its tilted position on the frame. Unless the piston could initially be positioned off center & towards the rear, & then bleed the rear first, air has to get trapped in there when the plunger is in a neutral position. maybe it bubbles upwards towards the master & works its way out over time, as the fluid on the front side compresses & moves that cylinder rearward over time? Never really thought about it before, but I don't see how it would come out otherwise.

[68ragtop]

So my curiosity was getting the best of me & I decided to mock up an extra distribution block at the same angle as its mounted on the frame like my picture shows above. I bled brake fluid through it by gravity & by vacuum. In both cases air was trapped in the distribution block. All I had to do is tip it horizontal & air would run into the lines. Easy to get all the air bled out that way, but thats not possible when its installed on the frame.

Unless that pocket of air gets squeezed into the lines by cylinder sliding in the circled area of the block, I don't see how that would ever come out.

While I find it hard to believe that every car has a bit of air trapped in there, I also don't see a way that its getting out either.