Non Pontiac Motors in Pontiacs includes factory 403,305,350 Chevy, Buick V6,
Also Pontiac Motors in non-Pontiacs!

          
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  #41  
Old 03-03-2014, 05:34 AM
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I am no pro my self but I would definitely get rid of that carter for a Q jet any day of the week if I am not running a Q jet it is a Holley 4150. I feel you will find a bit more performance with the Q jet over the carter/ E carb

  #42  
Old 03-03-2014, 09:06 PM
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Nice i'll look into it more now that i've got the front done.I was about to post WHERE THE HELL DO I START when getting torque and HP ....on a low budget for a 350? and i found i have theTH350 tranny but i can put my foot in her and only getting medium power she sounds tough but just don't have it. i have the HEI distributor not sure where to start...
i'd just like to get her to light the tires up little . so any suggestions are welcomed.

  #43  
Old 03-05-2014, 01:17 PM
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Default WHERE TO START

Start by doing some homework.
Do a web search on "how to identify a small block chevy" or something similar, and find out exactly what small block chevy you are working with. You may have to pull a valve cover off to get head numbers.
Knowing what you really have will give you a base line on where to start looking for power "IF" that's a "BIG IF" it had any to begin with.
350 gets tossed out there a lot when talking about SB chevys.
With the right information you can find out tunning specs, compression ratio, etc.

Post back when you get it and then folks can put there heads together to help you squeeze out whatever power it has.

Clay

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  #44  
Old 03-08-2014, 12:29 PM
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Nice great info my friend i'll get them and post them as soon as i can i have seen alot of 350 set ups out there just not sure yet what makes what as far as torque vs HP thanks again i'll get it up soon"" you all rock !!!""

  #45  
Old 03-13-2014, 12:07 PM
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Alright update on those sleeves in the body that are the thread in for the swaybar bushing and bracket i spoke with a guy at Ames Performance Engineering he said it's a non-replaceable part i'm gonna have to stick to my macgyver solution because they were installed direct into the body i'll see if i can get more better picks today and get them up if anyone knows about these let me know curious little F###er.....LOL

  #46  
Old 03-13-2014, 12:28 PM
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That subject has come up on Transamcountry.com before, so you could do a search for a remedy there, or just ask your question there. Here's a link to a firebird resto project there where he fixed his. Might take a little while to find the point in his resto thread where he worked on this part:
http://transamcountry.com/community/...?topic=28510.0

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  #47  
Old 03-14-2014, 10:44 PM
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Hey thanks man i briefly looked at it thats great ive had a hard time finding threads on here that are fitting what i'm into.all you guys once again come thru thanks.

  #48  
Old 03-15-2014, 09:03 AM
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Default food for thought

Those nuts are welded inside the frame rail and not meant to be replaced. You should have some kind of access hole, close by, in the side of the frame rail.

Just a thought: You could drill the hole bigger in the existing threads. Then run a piece wire through the hole and snake it out through an access hole. Use the wire to pull a piece of string back through the hole.Some kind of small diameter really strong string: like dental floss, spider wire, dacron, etc... Tie the string to the first few threads on a new bolt and wrap tape to hold the string centered on the bolt. Then use the string to pull the bolt through the frame and down through the hole.

Then use your "macgyver" skills to hold the bolt and reinstall the swaybar and bracket.

More thinking: might drill a hole in the new bolt head and drive a rollpin in it. Just something to keep the bolt from turning while you tighten the new nut from the bottom.

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  #49  
Old 03-15-2014, 12:20 PM
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Hey Quick, i have a not so good pic of it in my albums.
unfortunately i air hammered it out of the frame and just put a new nut and bolt with a lock washer i think the welds on it broke cuse when i was trying to remove it the bolt and the sleeve would just spin inside the frame i didnt have any tool that would go through the access hole in the frame to hold the sleeve so i could remove the swaybar bracket bolt. i hope it holds if not well....i'll have to try another solution. hey i also have a question i'm having a hell of a time finding my code on my block i've seen on the other sites to look on my passengerside front under the alternator there is an area that it is stampped i can't get to it or even see it i guess i have to take off the alternator unless anyone has an idea....?? i'd love to find out what carb CFM so i can look into the q-jet for it thanks man

  #50  
Old 03-18-2014, 11:27 AM
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hey does anyone have any techniques for trubleshooting sqeel in front belt area ive tryed to listen to the alternator,waterpump,etc. with my stethascope but i dont hear it in any of them but you sure can hear it,it doent do it when it is first started so i might be wrong but i feel that narrows it down to a belt? man it's just kill'in me to hear her run like that i can't take her out cuse now i'm getting looks from the sqeel not the low tone....

  #51  
Old 03-18-2014, 05:09 PM
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you can use some spray lubricant on a belt. try to use a small amount and only spray one belt at a time. If the belt runs way down in the groove the belt needs to be replaced. The alt belt in usually the cause. Check the alt pulley for severe ware.

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  #52  
Old 03-20-2014, 01:22 AM
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Thanks Blue i'll do that tomorrow and hope i find it.

  #53  
Old 03-28-2014, 09:35 PM
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Default NOW SHE HAS SOME BITE !!!

Alright guys an update,well i found out alot i do have the turbo 350.
so the carter carb ive got is a 700cfm .i also have a RV cam but can anyone tell me WTH they are?...lol.i tuned her up set the timing gonna do a rebuild on the carter found a few vacuum issues plus my kick down was rotated so it wouldn't allow them to open.so now with all that any ideas guys?Also does anyone know about my year being built in CANADA?1975 formula 400

  #54  
Old 04-01-2014, 09:22 PM
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Where did everyone go....????

  #55  
Old 04-02-2014, 10:38 AM
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melling makes a torquer cam with a small bump in duration and a 420 lift. But it could be anything.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MEL-CL-MTP-1/

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  #56  
Old 04-21-2014, 10:12 PM
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Default AHHHH.....Today was great!!!!!

Got the bird out today it was just beautiful out and man she can really stretch her legs all i have to say is it's the greatest feeling !!!!! to have almost everyones head turn when i roll by....

  #57  
Old 04-23-2014, 11:53 PM
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Hey does anyone know of any events where i can take the bird and meet new people?

  #58  
Old 04-24-2014, 12:00 AM
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Most "RV" cams are 204°/214° @ .050" on the duration. Advertised duration on those cams is usually around 282°/292°, or there about.

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  #59  
Old 09-27-2014, 04:57 PM
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Alright....Here we go after a lot of online research I've come up with this Now I have read of people doing this but anyone know WHY???LOL
First off think it's got a comp.cam I have no clue on the crank or heads right now.
Now from what I've pulled on my block code it's a V0917CFR Now from what I've found it's a 305 from the CFR in code????A TH350 I think by the pan??I've got picks up or will shortly AC/Delco HEI Dist. And last but not least my Carter AFB Comp. carb.625 CFM not sure why everyone wants to get it off me for trade for Q-jet I Know all the classic it's easier for tuning and Etc... Call me old school but the carter just talks more to me.
Now after you look at the photo just remember I've got video I hope to have up on YouTube that shows she's got bark and bite unreal ...I can't wait to pull the engine to rebuild so I can find out the Specs on the cam and crank and the heads as you can see in my photos I need new valve covers and gaskets....LMAO!! So any tuning tricks for the carter are more then appreciated since I can't get the rear to break or the kickdown right or vaccume or...or....or....LMAO so i'm gonna try a rebuild any help on the linkage repair kit's???I'll try to get up more clear pics now that I know pretty much how it all works but needs refinement so I know nothing other it's all I could find so your guys ideas and suggestions and resons for why are more then taken into regard i'll post more later thank you Oh!! and i'm constany running from 5000ft. up to 8700ft without no issues at all till now but i'll exsplain in more detail and go from there n the next response
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  #60  
Old 09-28-2014, 12:18 AM
Grand73Am Grand73Am is offline
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I suggest you don't spend money rebuilding a 305. Not worth it. Much better to get the stronger 350 if you're going to stay with a Chevy engine. All your 305 external parts will bolt to the 350, so you won't have to buy any other parts, just the 350 engine. Bolts in just like the 305, since it's all the same on the outside. Actually you could buy a new GM crate 350 engine for the same cost and possibly less than what a machine shop charges to rebuild your engine.

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