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Old 03-16-2013, 03:31 PM
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Default 62 - Direction signal switch rebuild

Hey Guys...

This is related to my previous post about my turn signal lever flopping around.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=716654

Thought it may come in handy for everyone. I'm still working on this issue, but kind of stumbled onto some other things that may prove useful.

I made a trip to the junkyard yesterday with some other great PY board guys, PerryKA (Alan) and Deadhead (Bruce). We made some decent scores on parts we were looking for. I found a few direction signal switches (Turn signal switches that mount on the steering column) while we were there. I've done some reading up on these and think they may be the cause of my tail light issues, so I wanted to grab a few and try my hand rebuilding them. The reason I got into this was an intermittant problem I've been having where one of my brake lights seem to have a life of it's own. One day, it's working. next, it's out. I've replaced all wiring and been through everything a few times in the hope of solving the trouble when I ran across a paragraph in my shop manual that almost stated my issue to the letter!

The manual states "When installing the direction signal switch it is very important that it be centered properly on the steering column. Improper positioning can result in an inoperative stop lamp." This is my issue to a T, so I'm addressing the problem from a couple directions.

This post is about the switch itself. After some other reading, Some say that the switch can go faulty simply from age. The grease first installed at the factory can go hard and dry up, making for bad movement or faulty operation.

Since I'm now armed with a few of these things, I decided to try my hand looking into them and maybe rebuilding one to replace in my car. Turns out, they're very simple to take apart and service. If you have issues, you might want to try this. Removing, disassembling, cleaning, then reasssembling is easy, but you need to be careful as the parts are small and easy to lose. I'd recommend good light and a clean space to work with.

I'll be posting some pics on this as we go along. Of course, you'll need to remove this part from your car to do the rebuild...


Last edited by mviker; 03-16-2013 at 04:08 PM.
  #2  
Old 03-16-2013, 03:39 PM
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Ok,

You've got the switch out. It's covered in crud and years of residue. first thing is to clean it off. I just used dish soap and a small scrub brush. wash it real good and dried it off.

You'll notice some metal tabs on each side that lock secure the plastic parts to the metal frame of the switch. Using a small screwdriver, gently pry those out so that they clear the stops built into the plastic switch body.Note: the sliding part of the switch is spring loaded. It would be a good idea to press down on the "leg" sticking out the back while you separate the parts to keep everything together. Be careful. There are small springs inside you don't want to lose).

One you pry the tabs out, gently lift the plastic assembly off the metal frame part while keeping the slider tight to the rest of the switch assembly. Once all is clear, you can left the switch body off the slider from above. You should have the slider in one hand and the assembly lifted off in the other exposing the contacts with the little springs underneath.

See pics.
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Last edited by mviker; 03-16-2013 at 04:25 PM.
  #3  
Old 03-16-2013, 03:43 PM
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After disassembly. Just clean everything out real good. I used dish soap then electrical contact cleaner, followed by gently burnishing all contacts with 000steel wool until all metal surfaces are bright. Once clean, just lube lightly with dielectric grease, then reassemble. Be sure those little springs are in place, then sit the brass contacts back into place on top of them on the slider part of the switch. Once assembled, apply a thin coat of the dielectric grease and finsish up with the complete assembly of the switch.
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Last edited by mviker; 03-16-2013 at 03:49 PM.
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Old 03-16-2013, 03:58 PM
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Holding the slider part of the switch with the brass contacts facing up, set the pin side of the switch down on top and hold together as you fit the metal part on and bend the tabs on the sides back in to secure the plastic part. When finished, the slider should move freely without too much effort.

At first, I was expecting to feel the stops where I imagined the signal lever might click when engaged, but that doesn't seem to be the case. The switch moves without the stops. Must be the cancel cam that makes the clicking sound. This probably will not solve any mechanical issues, such as a flopping lever, but it should allow you to service, rebuild and probably solve any lighting ghosts you may be chasing with your tail lights. Remember...as the manual says, it is critical you place this switch correctly to ensure the proper function of your brake lights. Hopefully, rebuilding your switch will play a role in proper operation also. Once finished, simply reinstall and rest easy knowing your switch is at least NOT one of the things causing any lighting issues! Oh, don't forget to clean the contacts on the plug side also!

Hope this helps!!

Kevin
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Last edited by mviker; 03-16-2013 at 04:26 PM.
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Old 03-16-2013, 04:06 PM
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On a side note...These switches are apparently getting harder to find and may run some serious moolah if you do get lucky enough to locate one. Rebuilding is very easy and only costs are a little elbow grease and time. If your switch is giving you fits, don't panic and go looking for a new one. You can clean and service your existing one with little effort and chances are, it will work like new again. The car designers back in 62 may have been rocket scientists then, but this stuff is pretty basic by today's stabndards. Give it a shot if you think it will help. I'm going to be installing my rebuilt switch in the next couple days. I think it will do just fine once it's in there. Now, on to the flopping lever again. Ugh!!!

PS...It sure looks like the same can be done with the reverse light, reverse lockout switch on the column as well. It's very similar and nowhere near as complicated. I really recomment trying this before you run off spending possible big bucks on some NOS switch out there. That is, if you're lucky enough to find one.

Kevin


Last edited by mviker; 03-16-2013 at 04:13 PM.
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Old 03-16-2013, 04:20 PM
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One last thing...

It appears this switch is in a few different year cars. I pulled the ones I found from a couple 62's and a 64 big car. I'd think they'd be found in any buig Pontiac from 60 to 64 at least. Maybe othert years as well. Maybe someone here can chime in with the parts/years interchange if anyone needs more specific info.

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Old 03-16-2013, 05:39 PM
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Nice, exactly how I rebuilt mine. The original grease was like clay inside. Now it moves like a Rolex...

Well Done Kevin!

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Old 03-16-2013, 06:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Derbs24 View Post
Nice, exactly how I rebuilt mine. The original grease was like clay inside. Now it moves like a Rolex...

Well Done Kevin!
Thanks Jason!

Yep. The switches I've played with all have little to no grease in them and they're all very choppy to operate. Once redone, they're smooth as silk! This is something that's fast and easy to do. Took maybe 15 minutes to get it done.

Can't wait to put it in the car!

  #9  
Old 03-16-2013, 10:08 PM
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Good tech, mister. Thank you!

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Old 03-17-2013, 05:31 AM
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Very interesting thread. My switch is very stiff so might tackle this job some time. Thanks for sharing.

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Old 03-17-2013, 11:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alf ista View Post
Very interesting thread. My switch is very stiff so might tackle this job some time. Thanks for sharing.
Hugh!

Yes. This is a simple and fast thing to do that should extend the life of your turn signal switch. I see from your other posts that you're still playing under your dash, so yeah...A few minutes spent on this switch may save you having to crawl around under there later. You just unplug the connector, then two 5/16 screws and it's out. Another 10 or so minutes cleaning and you can have it back in there. Thee's a reverse lockout/backup light switch nearby. If you're feeling really productive, that one shouldn't be too difficult to clean up also. I have a couple of those too. Haven't gotten around to playing with them, but they look just as easy to refurb.

Hay....Happy St. Patrick's day!

Kevin

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Old 09-05-2019, 07:30 AM
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This needs brought back around.. Very good tech write up..

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Old 09-09-2019, 01:36 AM
Goatracer1 Goatracer1 is offline
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Out of necessity (could never find a good switch when I need one) I've been doing that for years with good results. Nice pictures and write up.

  #14  
Old 02-11-2020, 08:55 PM
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Just pulled apart the switch on my 64 to clean it up. It looks basically the same as the pics except I have 3 tiny little metal bearings that fell out. Anyone know exactly where they go back?

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