[Gator67]

Originally Posted by lrosen

The repros are polished stainless like original. If your original on the other side is heavily scratched/dull you can use stainless polish on them and get them mirror-like again.

I have used Meguiars metal polish by hand with great results.

Thanks for the info! Glad to hear that they're stainless rather than chrome. Another question, are the Camaro pillar post moldings the same?

On another note. My wife gave me a Flex 3401 for Father's day. What a fantastic tool!

[Gator67]

The next small project on my list is the cruise control. Most of the components were on the car when I purchased it. I only needed to find a correct servo, a ball chain, and ball chain clip secures the chain to the special carburetor bracket.

The servo consists of two end plates, a 4-inch compression spring, and bellows. I couldn't find a complete unit but I was able to piece one together. A member here gave me the end plates and spring—thank you very much pmdtech! I sent the endplates to Steve Gregori for plating in yellow zinc. I bought the bellows from OPGI. The ball chain came from ACE hardware. Finally, I bought a ball chain clip from Pete Serio. Photo 1 shows the servo assembled and installed prior to the plating and photo 2 shows the pieces after being plated along with the ball chain clip.

I installed everything, took it for a test drive, but unfortunately it didn’t work. When I hit the cruise button, nothing happened--and it didn't matter what speed I was traveling. I tested the servo by connecting it to the vacuum source directly, and it appeared to function correctly (important safety tip, remove the ball chain from the servo when you do this or the servo will pull the carb wide open—man, that was scary).

I rechecked the connections, and everything appeared to be in order, except for one thing. I believe the vacuum line to the bellows should have a tee in it with another vacuum line coming through the firewall to the brake release switch (hard to tell from the figure in the Service Manual).

Here’s my question, does this vacuum line connection from the brake switch need to be made in order for the cruise to engage (in which case, this may be the problem), or is this vacuum connection only needed to disengage the cruise (in which case, my problem is elsewhere in the system)?

Any other tips are welcome!

[Gator67]

I haven't made much progress lately. I've been traveling quite a bit this summer, and when I've been home, it's been too dang hot in the garage to do much of anything.

I did take the car for a long drive this morning. Part of the trip (about 50 miles) was on the interstate, and although the car seemed to run perfectly fine at 70mph, I couldn't help but think that 3400rpm was taxing the old girl. Although at some point, I will have the gears changed out, the first order of business will be to replace the short tires that are on the car now--205 60 14 Goodyear ST. Of course, this opens up the question of what to go with.

My first inclination is to order a set of 225 70 14 redlines for the 14x6 Rally 2s that are on the car now. However, I'm having trouble making a decision because I really like how the car looks with RWLs and I don't know how it will look with redlines. I also have a nice set of 15X7 Rally 2s in my garage, and these open the door to even more possibilities. decisions decisions....

[Greg Reid]

What gears are in it now? 3:55s?

[Gator67]

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

What gears are in it now? 3:55s?

Yes, I believe they are 3.55.

I plan to change them out because the taller tires will only reduce rpms by 150-200 when cruising..In fact, I recently purchased what I think is a correct 3.08 ring and pinion set from a member here (I know I'll have to find an appropriate posi carrier too), but something puzzles me. The ring measure 8.2 inches across, there are 27 splines on the pinion, and I counted 40 teeth on the ring and 13 teeth on the pinion. I though I was good to go until I saw what seems to be an inconsistency in the stamped codes on the ring and pinion. The stamp on the ring is 40 13 GM 4 66 LO, and the stamp on pinion is 39 14 GM 4 66 TA. From my understanding 39 14 is a 2.78 gear set, and this wasn't available until 67, and besides, there are definitely 13 teeth on the pinion not 14. Either the pinion has the wrong stamp, or I'm not reading the codes correctly. Anyone have any insight into this?

[Gator67]

We decided not to change out the rear gears. Instead, we're going with an overdrive transmission...specifically, an 200-4r that's been upgraded/strengthened. This will give the car the ability to cruise on the highway like it has better than 2.56 gears while at the same time increasing acceleration off the line. It will certainly take away from the car's originality, but it's an acceptable trade-off to us given how much we drive it. Also, except for the dip stick tube and TV cable, the change won't be very visible.

[Cammer-6]

wise choice
I did the 200-4r up grade to my 67 Sprint in the 80s and never looked back

[Gator67]

we decided to pull the motor. 70k, and other than the timing chain cover, it doesn't look to have been cracked open. Kind of feel bad about doing this, but it's time. Initially was just going to reseal to take care of leaks, but now will have it rebuilt to make it pump gas friendly. The car had enough timing pulled out of it so that it didn't ping, but was pretty lazy. It was remarkably stronger with timing in it, but the engine would't last without race gas. Haven't settled on what will go into the rebuild, but will maintain factory stock appearance...kind of on the fence between a relatively stock rebuild (dished pistons, 068 cam, refurbished rods & crank) and something with a bit more performance (stroker crank, mild H roller cam, forged rods, etc.). Either way, the car will be a joy to drive with the 200-4r...

[Gator67]

Engine is now at the machine shop. The 200-4r with beefed up internals has been ordered and I sent a very nice correctly dated 7028264 XE to Cliff Ruggles to be set-up for the engine. I haven't made a decision about which way to go with the engine rebuild yet.

In the mean time, I also have to decide whether to go with paint or powder coat on the the subframe, suspension pieces, inner fenders, etc..thoughts?

[67GP428]

Hi, Just thought I would chime in. I bought my '68 FB 6 months ago from my neighbor. He had sub frame, core support and everything else powder coated. They do look nice. Had them dipped/stripped, then powder coated. Scott

[keith k]

Originally Posted by Gator67

Engine is now at the machine shop. The 200-4r with beefed up internals has been ordered and I sent a very nice correctly dated 7028264 XE to Cliff Ruggles to be set-up for the engine. I haven't made a decision about which way to go with the engine rebuild yet.

In the mean time, I also have to decide whether to go with paint or powder coat on the the subframe, suspension pieces, inner fenders, etc..thoughts?

On subframes, I like to have them dip stripped and then electrocoat primer dipped. That way the coating gets everywhere on the inside of the frame, too. There are not too many places to have that done, though...

[Gator67]

Will have to look into the dip strip and electrocoat primer dip...can't believe that it wouldn't be available here...

On another note, with the high temperature today in Phoenix forecasted to be 86, it's officially the first day of convertible season! Why did I have to go and start this project now? The plan is to have everything back together by the end of February (before convertible season ends).

[Gator67]

Not much news to report. I'm still on the fence with regard to the the motor...though now I'm leaning heavily towards a pump-gas friendly mild stroker type of combo.

I received an email from UPS that a package from PY is on the way...I'm thinking it's the wood wheel I sent for remolding/refinishing in the spring. Looking forward to seeing how it turned out!

I also picked up a correct '68 timing chain cover from a member...now I need to find a good water pump.

I'll also be switching out the original dummy-light gauges with a minty set of Rally gauges I found...which means that some wiring harnesses will need to be replaced too...

[rohrt]

Love the build thread.

I think you should have DCI open the chambers on the heads you have and put a 428 stroker crank in it if there any left.

[keith k]

Originally Posted by Gator67

Not much news to report. I'm still on the fence with regard to the the motor...though now I'm leaning heavily towards a pump-gas friendly mild stroker type of combo.

I'd do the stroker, Jeff, if you're pulling the whole motor apart anyway. By it's a nature the car is a cruiser, not a racer... so big low end torque is the ticket. Plus it's a heavy car -- cubes will be its friend! And they're invisible.

[Gator67]

Originally Posted by rohrt

Love the build thread.

I think you should have DCI open the chambers on the heads you have and put a 428 stroker crank in it if there any left.

Thanks rohrt, but it wasn't intended as a build thread. I had a several relatively small stand-alone projects that I thought would be good to document here...but as noted by The Fixx, one thing leads to another!

Originally Posted by keith k

I'd do the stroker, Jeff, if you're pulling the whole motor apart anyway. By it's a nature the car is a cruiser, not a racer... so big low end torque is the ticket. Plus it's a heavy car -- cubes will be its friend! And they're invisible.

I agree Keith...that's the logic that has us moving towards a mild stroker...we'll be giving up a point of compression, but the cubes will more than make up for it. The only trouble is the slippery slope that follows this decision...RA manifolds (mini-starter), exhaust, bigger cam, fuel supply, etc...I just have to keep telling myself to keep things simple and factory appearing...the 200-4r is a deviation for sure, but the only obvious evidence from the engine bay will be the TV cable and dip stick tube...

[Gator67]

The steering wheel arrived today, and it turned out really nice. Well worth the time and $$$.

[rohrt]

looks like brand new!

[A Schab]

Do they refinish the spokes and plastic or just the plastic? I need to get one done but the spokes are pitted.

[Gator67]

The service only includes re-molding & finishing the plastic. Your best bet is to start with a straight wheel with nice looking spokes--I see them on eBay on a fairly regular basis...