[Tim66]

Hi guys,I have a question.Does the rear qtr. and the deck filler panel get molded together?ORRRRR is there a distinct line between them?Thank you for any help,I hope I explained it right.
Tim

[steve v]

The factory leaded the seams. They also were known for cracking due to body flex at the seams.

[tjs72lemans]

Not sure why they didn't have a seam like the hardtops and coups. I plan to do as some have. Remove the lead and weld a small patch in and skim with filler so as to not crack new paint.

[Vol]

I would remove the lead. weld the seam. Then patch over the seam. Just did this a few months ago on my 68.

[tjs72lemans]

What's the best way to remove the lead?

[Greg Reid]

I used a torch and a brass wire brush to get solder out my roof joints.

[400 4spd.]

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

I used a torch and a brass wire brush to get solder out my roof joints.

Same here. And if you want it really clean, follow with some media blasting.

You're going to find a seam similar to the one I'm posting of a '68 that we are doing. You will need to weld the overlapping edge solid before any filler goes over it, or you're going to see cracks appearing later.

[tjs72lemans]

Thanks. Does the torch warp the metal? Do you try to keep the surrounding metal/paint cool with a rag to keep from damaging the paint further?

[400 4spd.]

Two things in your favor. The layered metal is slow to soak up heat, plus lead has a low melting point and will turn to liquid with little effort. Use a brazing tip with a soft blue flame and it will puddle quickly. That said, you aren't likely to warp anything.

[tjs72lemans]

Will a hand held propane style torch do the job? That's all I have.

[Greg Reid]

That's what I used. Lead melts pretty low compared to the surrounding metal.

Sent from my moto g(6) play using Tapatalk

[tjs72lemans]

Thanks. That's great to know.