#21  
Old 01-14-2020, 01:58 PM
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6T9GTO 6T9GTO is offline
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Quote:
Hi Guys,

Non A/C Car here

1 seat removed
2 Remove hoses.
3 You can..if u want suck some antifreeze out of unit, put some stuff in the pipes so when you pull it out it doesn't leak
4 pull glove box box and lid out ( screws and lift plastic parts off lid so you can remove metal cords
5 undo bracket in middle
6 undo electrical connection on top
7 remove 4 medal nuts from firewall. No issue with fender or any of that bs
8 pull tab metal tab off near gas pedal that activates one of the vents
9 - pull medal tab off near glove box
10 - pull medal tab off near middle of unit
11 - Wiggle out the whole being aware of how it fits

I decided to not go with Spectre aluminium hc, returned it. I went to local shop they wanted $250 so I decided to wait a bit and shop around.

Now I'm shopping in Canada. I'll try that Richmond manufacturing and amazon next.

Ames if I have to pay brokerage and conversion.
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Am I seeing (5) studs in pic 5? Was one of the nuts off already?

Thanks

  #22  
Old 01-14-2020, 02:11 PM
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kyle_blake kyle_blake is offline
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I recall only 4 stud's.

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  #23  
Old 01-14-2020, 04:01 PM
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Wow next shop wants $295-$350 as the "core" fins part I guess is super expensive. Maybe it's a Canada thing with sourcing it?

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  #24  
Old 01-14-2020, 04:45 PM
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Jeez, that's pricey ... Had my whole radiator done for $500.

I would certainly think you could do it with a propane torch .... have friend that's a plumber? You'd want to clean it very, very well first, and it will have to have plenty of flux on it. Basically no different that sweating copper pipes ... but not as clean.

That should be a $50 repair at a competent radiator shop ... problem is they all just replace plastic radiators now, they don't fix anything.

  #25  
Old 01-14-2020, 08:35 PM
BlueLemansMark BlueLemansMark is offline
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Try using one of the places in. Blaine that will accept your package. Once it arrives go across border and pick it up. Do a couple purchase that are cheaper there.

Even if you pay taxes GST/PST should still be cheaper. I have bought a lot of parts this way and still saved money

  #26  
Old 02-21-2020, 03:59 AM
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just to let everyone know, i ended up using a propane torch and removed all the solder, took the pipe out, wire brushed cleaned it at end. i re did the solder using some heavy duty none electrical solder and it sealed up nice and sturdy. i then shot it with some black paint just on the end, not the whole unit .... back installed and no leaks.... thanks for your help!so far ok!

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  #27  
Old 02-24-2020, 04:46 PM
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Ram Air IV Jack Ram Air IV Jack is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kyle_blake View Post
just to let everyone know, i ended up using a propane torch and removed all the solder, took the pipe out, wire brushed cleaned it at end. i re did the solder using some heavy duty none electrical solder and it sealed up nice and sturdy. i then shot it with some black paint just on the end, not the whole unit .... back installed and no leaks.... thanks for your help!so far ok!
I remember doing this a few years ago on my non ac 69 GTO. I never took out the glove box or seat but got everything out and in correctly. Never use an aluminum core, copper/brass is best like the originals. My radiator shop tested my old one and found numerous holes in it and was hopeless to repair. They found a copper/brass replacement in an old box from a supplier. Looked almost like the original. Pressured tested it and it was fine, but I needed them to adjust the lower hose fitting for it to fit correctly through the firewall. I used 3M black caulk to seal the box to the firewall under the hood. There was one bolt under the right fender that was hard to reach and I could only turn it a fraction at a time but got it tight. It was a job indeed but it worked just fine.

  #28  
Old 02-25-2020, 03:54 AM
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Greg Reid Greg Reid is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kyle_blake View Post
just to let everyone know, i ended up using a propane torch and removed all the solder, took the pipe out, wire brushed cleaned it at end. i re did the solder using some heavy duty none electrical solder and it sealed up nice and sturdy. i then shot it with some black paint just on the end, not the whole unit .... back installed and no leaks.... thanks for your help!so far ok!
Good job! It'll last near forever.
I remember that I soldered up a pinhole in my '69 el Camino radiator. I still can't believe I was able to get it hot enough with a soldering iron. Never even removed it from the car or drained the water.

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  #29  
Old 12-28-2023, 10:11 AM
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grivera grivera is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kyle_blake View Post
Hi Guys,

Non A/C Car here

1 seat removed
2 Remove hoses.
3 You can..if u want suck some antifreeze out of unit, put some stuff in the pipes so when you pull it out it doesn't leak
4 pull glove box box and lid out ( screws and lift plastic parts off lid so you can remove metal cords
5 undo bracket in middle
6 undo electrical connection on top
7 remove 4 medal nuts from firewall. No issue with fender or any of that bs
8 pull tab metal tab off near gas pedal that activates one of the vents
9 - pull medal tab off near glove box
10 - pull medal tab off near middle of unit
11 - Wiggle out the whole being aware of how it fits

I decided to not go with Spectre aluminium hc, returned it. I went to local shop they wanted $250 so I decided to wait a bit and shop around.

Now I'm shopping in Canada. I'll try that Richmond manufacturing and amazon next.

Ames if I have to pay brokerage and conversion.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 6T9GTO View Post
Am I seeing (5) studs in pic 5? Was one of the nuts off already?

Thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by kyle_blake View Post
I recall only 4 stud's.
Reviving old thread as I will be doing this job on a 69 Lemans non-AC. The pictures you posted in post #17 show five studs on the heater box one of which would be the hidden one - maybe the speed nut wasn’t replaced the last time the heater core was replaced? Would be nice if that’s the case with mine.

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'69 Firebird 400/461, 290+ E D-Ports, HR 230/236, 4l80E, 8.5 Rear, 3.55 gears
'64 LeMans 400/461, #16 Heads, HR 230/236, TKO600, 9inch Rear, 3.89 gears
'69 LeMans Vert, 350, #47 heads: Non-running project
  #30  
Old 12-29-2023, 07:43 PM
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Update - got the heater box out today - I was able to get the speed nut off the hidden stud with a ratcheting wrench- wasn’t easy but glad I did it - here is a pic of the firewall after removal.
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Will Rivera

'69 Firebird 400/461, 290+ E D-Ports, HR 230/236, 4l80E, 8.5 Rear, 3.55 gears
'64 LeMans 400/461, #16 Heads, HR 230/236, TKO600, 9inch Rear, 3.89 gears
'69 LeMans Vert, 350, #47 heads: Non-running project
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  #31  
Old 12-30-2023, 12:02 AM
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Greg Reid Greg Reid is offline
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Boy.. I really hate those meeces to pieces.

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  #32  
Old 12-30-2023, 05:08 PM
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I plan to take the heater core to radiator shop if it’s leaking- is this indicative of a leaking core?
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Will Rivera

'69 Firebird 400/461, 290+ E D-Ports, HR 230/236, 4l80E, 8.5 Rear, 3.55 gears
'64 LeMans 400/461, #16 Heads, HR 230/236, TKO600, 9inch Rear, 3.89 gears
'69 LeMans Vert, 350, #47 heads: Non-running project
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