#21  
Old 09-11-2019, 10:52 AM
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I'll take the donations of these 2-4 year old plug wires off classic cars, seldom driven, stored indoors, many times climate controlled...
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  #22  
Old 09-11-2019, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott65 View Post
I'll take the donations of these 2-4 year old plug wires off classic cars, seldom driven, stored indoors, many times climate controlled...
You pay shipping, sure, I will send you mine. Are you the same type that is OK with driving on 15 year old tires too?

If you handle plug wires too much, the inner, as well as sometimes outer jackets, can break, and leak. Cross fire and arching out are symptoms, sometimes not noticeable at idle, but if you do notice it at idle, they have been bad for a long time.

Ever chase an elusive intermittent miss? 9 times out of 10, it's wires, or a cap.

I have run cast aluminum M/T valve covers for years. I've had plug wires leak so bad that they make burn holes in the fins. That gives you an idea of how bad it can be. And I have never run wires more than 5 years.

I just don't understand why people don't do proper periodic maintenance, it just makes sense, especially on a performance car.

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  #23  
Old 09-11-2019, 12:53 PM
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For me, I've had vastly different experience than the things you're talking about. Probably due to the fact my car is maybe driven 10 times a year some years, and stored indoors. I haven't experienced the kind of degradation you mention. There are ways to check the condition, and I do. And when they go bad I'll replace them. But the last set I removed, someone else could still get perfectly good use from. I changed simply because I don't use a distributor anymore. Different strokes.
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  #24  
Old 09-11-2019, 01:34 PM
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Nah, I get it, sorry if I came across wrong, meant no harm. And yeah, you can probably get away with plug wires for more than 5 years, but like I said, silicone flat breaks down over time, just like rubber. Faster I think. It's just easier to pick an interval to change at, then there's no question.

It's a matter of how long items are exposed to oxygen. That's what breaks things down, managing temp and humidity helps, but you can't really create a vacuum every time you park a car.

The shorter the wires the better. COP is good, no plug wires. Caddys and others have a 10 year/100k service interval, other than normal 'wear' items, or used to. But I know many that have had to replace stuff that failed, and in like a 4-5 year range.

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Old 09-11-2019, 08:28 PM
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It helps to hear different viewpoints. In my case, limited time, skill, and with those wires being 25 years old, I'll replace them.

I admit, I sometimes throw parts at a problem, as opposed to doing proper diagnostic work. Lack of skill

I've ordered pretty much everything. I'm hoping to have it all by Friday and be able to do/break something this weekend. I'll keep the thread updated.
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Old 09-12-2019, 11:31 PM
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Update... I received the spark plug wires, cap, and rotor today. The spark plug wires are for a 4 cylinder. So I need to return them to Summit.

I really wanted to do this over the weekend, so I think I'll try Napa tomorrow.

Can you guys recommend a MSD set that works with Pontiac and my MSD Dizzy 8563 and MSD 6AL 6420?

Thank you.
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Old 09-13-2019, 08:38 AM
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I just called Summit, and they will overnight the correct set and eat both the overnight freight as well as the price difference. That's a win! I should be ass deep in this sometime tomorrow.
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  #28  
Old 09-13-2019, 08:41 AM
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These are my go-to wires, MSD super conductor, multi-angle boots, universal:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-31193

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Old 09-13-2019, 08:44 AM
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They set me up with a different MSD, https://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-31363

Thought?
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Old 09-13-2019, 08:48 AM
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I'm calling them back... The kit they suggested doesn't come with a coil wire.
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  #31  
Old 09-13-2019, 08:57 AM
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I don't use the pre-assembled wires, they are never the right lengths, and you end up with 2 that are very short, if they reach.

If you take your time with the cutter and crimper that come with the unassembled wires it works fine.

Interesting the pre-assembled sets don't come with a coil wire. I think that's a mis-print, I know the unassembled ones do.


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  #32  
Old Yesterday, 12:49 AM
wbnapier wbnapier is offline
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Update:

I Removed the spark plug wires, cap, and rotor. I've added a new cap and rotor, as well as laid out the spark plug new wires. Tomorrow I'll cut, crimp, test ohms, install and start the car. Then on to the wiring.

I was disappointed to find a fair bit of corrosion inside the distributor. Photos attached. What do you think?

Any opinions on dual crimp vs. traditional crimp spark plug wire terminals?

Also, this morning I checked out the M&H engine harness and compared it with my wiring diagram from www.classiccarwiring.com. I was confused to see a black wire in the #6 terminal location of the engine harness bulkhead connector, as this is shown as empty on the wiring diagram. See attached photo.

When I checked the wiring diagram from the manual, this black wire is for the heater motor. But, on the www.classiccarwiring.com diagram, the heater motor is run somewhere else through a relay. My heater does work and there is nothing in the #6 terminal location. Any comments?
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  #33  
Old Yesterday, 10:16 AM
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You have one of the early MSD distributors before they started zinc coating them. I believe you can call support, and they will replace it for you. That causes ignition issues and is a known problem.

You could disassemble the distributor and clean it up, shoot it with a coating, but it could effect the reluctor and pickup. (Don't spray the pickup). I still think they will replace it though.

Not sure I would trust those wire diagrams from that website, I would be looking at the factory diagrams, which are available, the factory service manual does have diagrams, and is basically a very good reference, pays for itself in time.

I wouldn't worry about the diagram, since everything is working. They probably used a generic or 'chevy' diagram.

The 'dual crimp' wire ends are fine, and prevent the core from breaking during installation. If you're making them yourself, push down on the core with a needle or something so it is captured during the crimp, and you will be fine.

.
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Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be
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