[boltbuster]

I just finished painting the metal bucket seat backs and bottom skirts of my 67 GTO with Ful-Cryll 2KL acrylic enamel in metallic turquoise. I pre-sprayed all of pieces with SEM Adhesion Promoter. Then, per the online instructions, I sprayed on two medium coats of paint, waiting 5-10 minutes between coats. I used custom mixed paint that was put into rattle cans at a local Lee Auto Parts store. The paint looks great.

My problem is that the paint surface is still just the slightest bit tacky after about 4 days of drying time. The website directions suggest that you should do a final buffing with very fine compound. I would have to do that by hand... no buffing machine. Would that help my tacky surface? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Kerm

[eric65]

Did you use a hardener with the enamel?
Most 2K's need hardener

[boltbuster]

Thanks for your reply, Eric. This is a single-stage paint. The hardener is a part of the mix, as I understand it.

[MUSLCAH]

Throw the painted pieces out in the sun for a day...Did the rattle can have a bottom section of hardener ..that should have been introduced into the enamel....and then shaken ?

[400 4spd.]

Those parts should be textured steel and are not meant to be glossy, plus you shot them with a single stage metallic paint. All three are reasons that you should not buff them. And being steel, I don't understand why adhesion promoter was used.
MUSLCAH has the rest covered.

[boltbuster]

Originally Posted by MUSLCAH

Throw the painted pieces out in the sun for a day...Did the rattle can have a bottom section of hardener ..that should have been introduced into the enamel....and then shaken ?

No... no hardener to add in. Tomorrow is supposed to be a sunny day in the mid-70's. Should be perfect for the task. Thanks for your suggestion.

[boltbuster]

Originally Posted by 400 4spd.

Those parts should be textured steel and are not meant to be glossy, plus you shot them with a single stage metallic paint. All three are reasons that you should not buff them. And being steel, I don't understand why adhesion promoter was used.
MUSLCAH has the rest covered.

There was some bad staining in the original paint. I went over all the pieces lightly with a very fine abrasive pad... think Scotch-brite. I didn't want to use a primer, and I had good luck using the SEM product on another project. The label stated that it was good for use with metal. The first coat of paint took to it very nicely. I went with a satin finish paint to match the original look. Here are a couple of pictures ... one with flash, one without. I'll get a couple of the seat backs in the sun tomorrow. That will give you guys a different look. Thanks to you, as well, 400.

[Mike Davis]

Use a heat gun and get them very warm but be careful not to bubble the paint. Then set them outside for a few days in the sun. Paint thickness and VOC's have allot to do with how fast it dries.

[boltbuster]

Thanks for the suggestion, Mike. They are much better this evening after a day in the sun. I think I'll repeat the process tomorrow. If they're still not done, I'll try some heat.
Kerm