[scott70]

Just went and had the nose glass beaded. The only cracks I really had we're on the edge where people leaned on it before and crack the paint which I was hoping was only in the paint. You can see in the pictures the same cracking but if you flex it with your finger the cracks don't open up and I can't get a fingernail to hang up on them anywhere. Kind of weird that the lines are still there.but overall I think the nose is in good shape.

[scott70]

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[scott70]

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[Greg Reid]

I think those cracks may show after priming/painting if you don't fill them and you won't be able to fill them because the voids are too tight. If that's the case, you may have to open them up and vee them out to get them filled.

[eric65]

it looks to be in good shape
Next step a coat of SPI epoxy wait an hour or two then another coat of SPI epoxy wait 30 minutes and another coat of SPI epoxy
Sand with 80 or 180 depending then can go 220 to 320
More coats of SPI epoxy sand 320 then start wet sanding SPI epoxy as many coats as needed

Did you test fit the bumper to the fenders to see if it shrunk or needs material to match the fender fit for front alignment? The bumper may need material added for which you can use the 3M flex bumper filler then start the SPI epoxy

[scott70]

Originally Posted by eric65

it looks to be in good shape
Next step a coat of SPI epoxy wait an hour or two then another coat of SPI epoxy wait 30 minutes and another coat of SPI epoxy
Sand with 80 or 180 depending then can go 220 to 320
More coats of SPI epoxy sand 320 then start wet sanding SPI epoxy as many coats as needed

Did you test fit the bumper to the fenders to see if it shrunk or needs material to match the fender fit for front alignment? The bumper may need material added for which you can use the 3M flex bumper filler then start the SPI epoxy

Yes we had the nose on and after new core support bushings and a repair of the metal. Got the fender to door gaps the best we could. The nose is a little shy on length because of shrinkage...the hood width won't allow us to move the fenders any closer. It would take quite a bit of bumper filler on the ends to get it out to the fenders. I've seen a number of restored cars that the fenders aren't flush with the sides of the nose. The hood is also slightly higher than the nose when the hood is closed,, only in the center though. Also seen a number of 70 GTO with the same issue.

[scott70]

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

I think those cracks may show after priming/painting if you don't fill them and you won't be able to fill them because the voids are too tight. If that's the case, you may have to open them up and vee them out to get them filled.

The weird part is it doesn't feel like a void. That's the thin edge of the bumper and when I bend it some I can't feel the edge at all with my fingernail. Even bending it and trying to feel I can't.

[scott70]

So reading the other thread should I put a thin layer of 3M over the fine crack areas? Or put on multiple layers of the epoxy primer and that should fill the cracks in? Like I said you can't spread these cracks apart.

[eric65]

Your cracks are so fine you dont need the 3M I think
The SPI will fill them if done in the process 3 coats to start with sand and re-coat as needed
The SPI will fill those small cracks fine Will take a fair amount but works like a champ

[6804gto]

Originally Posted by eric65

Your cracks are so fine you dont need the 3M I think
The SPI will fill them if done in the process 3 coats to start with sand and re-coat as needed
The SPI will fill those small cracks fine Will take a fair amount but works like a champ

X2, I just did a 70 nose with all spi epoxy. Excellent primer for these endura bumpers. Great adhesion /good build and sands excellent after proper drying time

[scott70]

Ill probably have to order the spi epoxy,,,,any activator or adhesion promoter? Probably dont need a gallon just for the nose?

[mrennie]

No adhesion promoter.

I would order a gallon, as well as a quart of reducer, then you will have some epoxy left over to mix as a sealer before paint.