[HWYSTR455]

Yeah, the new billet 700 pump is only 7.5" long, which is very compact. You would add a little length with fittings, but still, that's pretty dang small. Still a little pricey at $275ea, but they did come down some, which is helpful. And certainly less expensive than some of the alternatives. For that kind of money, the Holley billet pumps are the best deal out there.

If the pump is close to the tank, and as low as possible, usually, it will be fine. Once it's primed, it will keep pumping. I've seen a lot of installs where the pump is behind the bumper or on the rear part of the frame rail, and those are fine. With a rear facing sump, it will become a positive pressure area once you start moving anyway. With OE style pickups, it's not optimum for electric pumps, but will work fine. Since it's going from the bottom of the tank to the top, you're never going to be optimum anyway.

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[jonmachota78]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Summit Racing Inertia Switch # 890145 :

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-890145/overview/

wow a brand new inertia switch for $29.97? I think I've run out of excuses

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by jonmachota78

wow a brand new inertia switch for $29.97? I think I've run out of excuses

Yeah, cake to wire too. You can use an LED bulb to wire the third terminal on the switch, so when it trips, it grounds the LED, so you know when it's been tripped.

You can look at the switch button and tell it's tripped, but the switch isn't always mounted in a place you can readily see it.

The pigtail is only $6.

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[Firebob]

Nice thread. I'm wondering about the unprotected alum line on a street car. I guess your not worried about road trash jumping up and jabbing a hole in it? Even some of the more exposed areas of the OE lines had spring protectors on them.

[HWYSTR455]

Well, the only real exposed area is the area where it comes from out of the frame rail area in the rear, and before it passes through the front lower control arm mount (about 12" or so). That area from the factory had stone guard on it, and if one chooses, can install stone guard there. Personally, I haven't experienced any damage from debris in other installations, and for many miles. I think the risk is low to very low.

In the 60s & 70s, there probably were many more unpaved roads than there are now, so it might have been more of an issue then.

Remember some of the road tests from the 60s and early 70s? They'd show drivers taking cars on dirt roads and gravel roads, power-sliding them around turns, jumping them, you name it. Would you do that now with a classic? So they would (I hope) be less exposed as they were in the day, and the factory only put the guard on in that section. Steel, aluminum, not sure it would matter if you're going 4-wheeling.

Aluminum line is not as weak as some may think, and is pliable. If it's hit with a rock, it's going to dent, and not bust through, or at least 99+% of the time. The majority of the line runs are longitudinal, and even chaffing isn't going to be much in that direction. And I did still suggest that the adel clamps allow for a certain amount of movement, like the lines shouldn't be rigidly fixed, which would help in even some pretty extreme conditions.

Shoot, the old OE lines were more prone to breakage and leaking than the aluminum ones I installed. Those things came right apart, with little effort. Anything would be better.

And as with everything, check it occasionally. A quick glance the length of the runs will show if it's leaking or damaged.

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[HWYSTR455]

Follow up, here's a shot of the fuse and relay harness mounted, can see the wire at the bottom going to the pump for power...

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[carsmymistress]

Thanks for the great write up. After dealing with vapor lock on the past 2 power tours I am getting ready to install an electric pump with return on my 69. I have been wrestling between the aeromotive in tank set up and taking the external route. Just getting ready to post the question and came across your info. This is giving me something to consider before I move forward.
Thanks for sharing!

[HWYSTR455]

Well, as Tom pointed out on another post, the Spectre EFI ready tanks are inexpensive, you can run an OE type pump or Walbro, and the Aeromotive bypass regulator to knock it down to carb psi. Those tanks are internally baffled as well. Sure beats having to sump an OE tank, that's for sure. And if you go EFI (port or TBi) you're ready.

There's a couple other options, but they obviously are more expensive.

External pumps are nice since you don't have to drop the tank to troubleshoot/service the pump, but the mounting becomes a limitation. So it's all what you are willing to tolerate.

This car will do the first 3 legs of this year's Power Tour, glad I got the fuel system up to par.

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[HWYSTR455]

Just to toss this out there, if you sump an OE tank with one of the wedge-type sumps you tack on to the bottom of the tank, and run the pump behind the bumper or back there somewhere, you can snake some push-loc hose through the rear frame section to make the run over the rear. It would be a clean install, and you can use all the forward routing as done in this thread no problem.

You could probably even run the lines through the frame like that with even a pump mounted in front of the tank as I did.

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[gtofreek]

OK, now I'm subscribed so maybe I can keep up!

[goathead455]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Yeah, the new billet 700 pump is only 7.5" long, which is very compact. You would add a little length with fittings, but still, that's pretty dang small. Still a little pricey at $275ea, but they did come down some, which is helpful. And certainly less expensive than some of the alternatives. For that kind of money, the Holley billet pumps are the best deal out there.

If the pump is close to the tank, and as low as possible, usually, it will be fine. Once it's primed, it will keep pumping. I've seen a lot of installs where the pump is behind the bumper or on the rear part of the frame rail, and those are fine. With a rear facing sump, it will become a positive pressure area once you start moving anyway. With OE style pickups, it's not optimum for electric pumps, but will work fine. Since it's going from the bottom of the tank to the top, you're never going to be optimum anyway.

.

I run one of the billet 700 pumps.
It works great and is very quiet.
When I switched to electric,I used a HP 125 pump because a friend had one and said it worked well and was quiet.
Both of our HP pumps needed to be replaced after about 2 months of running time.
Both were being run without return lines.
I now use an Aeromotive bypass regulator and a 1/2 inch return.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by ta man

If you go to the dragstrip make sure you have over half a tank of fuel with full traction.

UPDATE:

Well, this has become the case, where between a 1/4 - 1/2 tank, it sucks air, and get a stumble/lean condition. Obviously, this isn't going to work for my daughter, being a college student, she will most likely run it down to below a 1/4 tank on a regular basis.

Soooo, I ordered a Tanks Inc EFI ready tank, and the bolt in pickup assembly PTA-G (pics attached).

http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/pa...rod/prd387.htm

Only thing is, the pickup assembly uses 3/8" lines. I ordered some individual 1/2" pickup lines, but the plates use one 1/4 NTP and one 3/8 NTP, so at best, I can only use a 1/2 pickup with a 3/8 return. (Unless I fab something). That will work, but would prefer 1/2 for both.

Dang. Told me so! Not sure how a 1/4" in depth can make such a difference, but guess it has something to do with running a return, only thing I can think of.

I'll get some pics of the progress once I get the parts. The tanks are back ordered, seems they are very popular, was hoping to get it installed before the power tour, fingers crossed...

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[HWYSTR455]

Quick update:

So in some free time, I decided to look closer at the pickup, and, it seems it is in fact 1/2 inch tubing. (see pics)

I measured the inside tubing of both aluminum 1/2 and the dual pickup, all are .80 inside, so, it's golden.

One thing. I was test fitting the AN 1/4 NTP to AN -8 fittings on the pickup, and the area that you put the wrench on the fitting to tighten contacts the plate before you can tighten it all the way. Dang. Well, you can add a short step brass fitting and make it work. Once I get the fittings and get it together will post pics.

Called today on the tank, still back order, no way it's coming and getting installed before the Power Tour. ~sigh~

.

[HWYSTR455]

Tank finally came in, they have them in stock again, if any are interested. (Tanks, Inc $225). Got the sending unit adjusted and mounted, and the pickup & return assembly. Also had to do some brass fittings since the AN adapters were bottoming on the mounting plate before they tightened. Works for me, since the fittings are very close to where the existing fittings are, and the existing lines will mate right up without doctoring them. Nice.

Should have it in by end of day Saturday, will slowly fill and run it, see how far down I can go without it sucking air, will report back. But just by the looks of things, problem solved.

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[promptcritical]

Any progress on this? Interested in the results.

[HWYSTR455]

Yes, sorry for not keeping it up to date!

So, installed the new tank, and...still had the issue of 1/4-1/2 tank fuel delivery. Not to mention, I was getting some whacky fuel gauge readings.

I dropped the tank, check the sender, and all was good. The grounds for the pump and the sender were next to each other, so I moved the ground for the pump to a new location. That solved the fuel gauge issue.

As for the delivery issue, looks like the pump motor is bad, and when it gets hot, like from running the length of time it takes to get to roughly 1/4-1/2 a tank, it drops off on delivery/pressure. Dang. Now I also have to worry if the new one will do the same thing. Maybe I got some old one off the shelf or something, because the LeMans doesn't have this problem, same pump model, been on there for years, and I've driven that thing like 3 or more tankfulls in a row before.

So my replacement pump just came in today, and will replace it after work. Stupid thing. Wish I would have left the original tank and pickup in there to see how far it would go down. I'm not that concerned with the cost aspect, since I know the new tank is much better, and allows a path to going to EFI, it's just more a time and frustration factor that makes me kick myself.

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[promptcritical]

Thanks for the update. I'm watching and learning.

[GOAT WHORE]

Have you heard any feedback about the in tank pump for that tank from Tanks Inc?

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by GOAT WHORE

Have you heard any feedback about the in tank pump for that tank from Tanks Inc?

They use Walbro pumps, which I've used many times without complaint. My father also just went with Tanks Inc fuel tank and pump setup, with the 1,000 HP pump for his 571 pontiac. No complaints.

HWYSTR455, glad to see you decided on an in tank pump for a car destined for power tour. No way I'd do a long leg trip like that with an external pump. I've been down that road, seems after 10-15,000 miles (sometimes sooner) those external pumps just get hot and wear out, (usually without much warning) and leave you stranded on the side of the road (don't ask ) Luckily a cooler full of bottled water got me home by pulling over every 5-6 miles and dumping water on the pump to cool it. Long story, lol. I've went in tank on everything since and never looked back.

External pumps are an easy way to do a fuel system, but I just don't recommend it in a car destined to be driven alot. In tank is the way to go for longevity and reliability. Hope you get er' figured out

[HWYSTR455]

Actually guys, I did a warranty replacement on the HP150 external pump, and haven't had a problem yet. I've been on several full tank cruises and not had it heat up. My plan was if this one dies to go in-tank, with the Aeromotive or Holley billet regulator.

I did like 1600 or something miles on this past power tour, and the pump was slowly giving up along the way. Once it got down to a certain level of fuel, it was hot, and psi would drop off. That level just happened to be between 1/2 and a 1/4 tank, but it was a time thing, how long the pump ran.

I still may switch to an in-tank pump, will have to see. Right now I'm starting to tear into the LeMans to get it ready for the body shop, so the clone will have to wait a while...

I did have the clone at the track a couple Fridays ago. Got 2 runs in, just under a full tank of gas, no prep, street tires, pretty hot out, ran 13.66, 2.186 60', .503 light, think it was at 104-something MPH, traction limited. I think if I worked it I could fairly easily get into high 12s. If I could cut a good light! (I suck at the tree). A set of stickies would do wonders, those all season things just don't hook. Still not bad for a mild iron head Olds 350.

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