[MidnightAuto]

Well it’s a dumb question, but I can’t figure it out. Choke was not all that important in Fla growing up. Now in ny, I guess I need to better understand it.

As it stands my choke is running lean- car runs rough until warmed up, and it’s not even cold yet. I played with setting the electric choke dial, but I came to realize that is not my issue. The issue is on the other side of the carb. The tang at the top of the fast idle rod is bumping against that stop as you can see in one pic, and you can see the choke blade is 75% open. So blade will not close any further. The tang has an oblong hole so it does not seem like you can adjust that. What am I missing here? How do I get that tang more clearance so the blade will be closed on cold start?

Sorry for stupid question. Embarrassed to ask such a trivial thing, but I can’t figure it out. Thanks for any help.

[GtoFM]

It doesn't look like the fast idle cam has released. Not familiar with electric choke ops but on a cold engine, the choke should put pressure to close the choke. Depress and release the accelerator to allow the fast idle cam to rotate to the fastest step. Do you have a pic of where the idle adj screw is touching the fast idle cam?

[MidnightAuto]

I studied this a bit more and see what you are saying. The throttle screw is on the first step and will not go to the second step. I lifted the throttle and put the screw on the second step. The tang now has enough clearance for the blade to be mostly closed.

I head to come in before I could start car and evaluate, but I presume I need to understand why it was hung on the first step. Will report back tmrw. Thanks for your help

[Kenth]

With idle speed screw on second step of fast idle cam, next to high step, adjust tang on drivers side for about .095" opening at rear of choke blade.
HTH

[MidnightAuto]

Well I am failing at this. Here is a recap with a bit more questioning.

Throttle screw was on top ramp, and therefore the choke blade would not close as the tang/stop on the rod prevented it from getting anywhere near closed.

I manually put screw on the second ramp, but as soon as you press the throttle, the ramp bracket immediately drops to the first ramp due to gravity.

With that said, when the screw is on the 2nd ramp, I can manually press the choke blade and it will close fully due to the tang/stop having more clearance on the 2nd ramp. BUT, the blade does not stay closed, there is some spring force which I presume is coming from the electric choke that keeps it 90% open- including when the car is cold.

My questions/observations:

(1) shouldn’t the choke blade be 95% closed when motor is cold? And then as the car (and electric choke) heat up, the spring opens the blade?


(2) Having me lift the throttle and drop it on the 2nd ramp is fine for understanding the mechanics, but shouldn’t a cold car be on the 2nd ramp to start and then it drops to 1st ramp after it’s warm? I don’t see how that is accomplished with what I mentioned above

Thoughts welcome.

[Goatracer1]

With the outside air temp below 70 degrees the choke blade should be fully closed. Hold open the throttle slightly and see if the choke blade closes completely. If not turn the choke thermostat (black cap) slowly until it is closed. When you release the throttle the idle screw should be on the high step of the fast idle cam.

[MidnightAuto]

Goatracer that got me over the dumbness. All makes sense now. I did what u said and that got everything in line. Bottom line, my choke was set to extremely lean- basically it was inoperable. Doing what it should now and cam is on the right step.

Thanks

[Goatracer1]

Good luck and have fun.