[OG68]

You may want to put spacers under the frame mounts while the engine is out.

[dataway]

Curious ... why spacers?

[PontiacJim1959]

Originally Posted by dataway

Curious ... why spacers?

Some will say that the engine cradle can develop some sag to it over the years.

It could also be the engine mounts as reproduction, like many items, are close, but not 100% accurate and drop the engine a little lower.

It could be the angle of the engine. The trans mounts could be too high/low tipping the engine into the crosslink, or it could be that someone pulled the trans and did not correctly install the cross member ears into the rubber isolators on the frame and instead set them on top of the rubber isolators and then bolted things together.

It may also be a suspension issue, again repop parts, or even previous damages.


So just a few reasons, but putting shims under the frame engine mounts seems to be the most common cure I see when the pan is rubbing in front. Depending on how much rubbing, with the pan off, I'd just dimple that area in a bit. I would still check all possible causes before adding shims and would first try another brand of engine mounts.

[supersport#69]

The pan wasn’t dented but touching enough to scrape paint off frame and pan in about a 2 inch width or so.

The mounts on there were about $10 each so I can’t imagine very good. I didn’t think it would be a big deal but I was wrong.

The Butler mounts are about 5x more costly so hoping that fixes it but for insurance maybe some 1/8 spacers?

While out I’m taking care of a stripped hole on aluminum timing cover so heli I-coil there. I also got to double check the timing chain had been replaced and tight.
For pan replacement I bought the Moroso stock pan clear zinc coated steel but I’ll paint it blue I think when it gets here. Also replacing pilot bushing in Muncie since exposed. It wasn’t replaced when the clutch was done in the summer.
I’m repainting the exhaust manifolds since I didn’t use a high enough temp paint in summer so it cooked off. I don’t care for the color I bought but it’s 1300-2000 supposedly.
Anyway, I’m trying to do what needs attention while it’s out the next few days. My hope is running by Next weekend.

I

[geeteeohguy]

Tony, sorry about the mishap, but you got good advice on the oil pump, etc. When I pulled the engine apart for it's first overhaul in my '67 GTO in 1988, the original head gaskets were Victor Reinz gaskets, so I'd bet yours were original to the car. I have had great results with stove/furnace paint on my exhaust manifolds. I painted the ones on my '67 10 years ago and they still look perfect. Be advised that the engine paint on ANY running Pontiac will burn to a silver/gold color at the intake runners and more so on the exhaust ports of the heads. Nature of the beast. Also, Pontiacs used a pilot BEARING, not a bronze bushing, although you can use a bushing if you want. Just make sure the inside diameter doesn't decrease after its pressed into place. (check with your pilot tool after install).

[supersport#69]

I may have called it the wrong name. I don’t think it was bronze color so may have been bearing, not bushing.
I already painted the manifolds but is a silver color that I hope looks ok mounted.

[69 Limelight]

Contact MrGTO69 on this forum 99 (and a member of of the Pypes Tech staff). He makes these spacers and will sell you a set.

[supersport#69]

Well I thought I was lucky because all my parts came today. However, the Moroso stock replacement pan I bought was .5 inch deeper than the one that was already rubbing the frame . So I just ordered a pan from BOP to get it back together.
I bought motor mounts from Butler which we measured 1/4 inch bigger than the Low priced ones I had on there. I don’t know if that is because the ones on there for 5 mos smashed a bit or not though.
I’m thinking the mounts might give me that 1/8 space above the frame so it won’t rub.