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Old 02-17-2020, 09:40 AM
panhead59 panhead59 is offline
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Default Bypass oil filter

Anybody know of advantages of a bypass oil filter ? It looks like its just an adapter to relocate filter. Am i missing something ?

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Old 02-17-2020, 10:28 AM
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Sirrotica and a few others here highly recommend.
Filters better. smaller particles. someone will explain better than me lol

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Old 02-17-2020, 10:42 AM
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You can run a 2 Qt filter on them which drastically reduces restriction at high flow rates and you get a partial oil cooler effect, both of which are great pluses!

If your motor is out of the car it pays to just drill and tap the oil filter adapter pad for 1/2" pipe, but it is a bit of a job, especially if the motor is assembled since you need to keep the metal shavings out from the oil passages which can be done with paper towels packed in the block holes.

Also be sure to run 1/2" ID lines to and from.

If you can't drill & tap the block then be sure to not over tighten the lines in the block adapter as even with Telfon sealer they will bend out of shape and leak.
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Old 02-17-2020, 01:54 PM
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I am using the bypass system from Amsoil, which consists of a valved adaptor block supporting a full flow filter and a bypass filter. The system ensures that ALL oil is running through the full flow filter, and something like 20% of oil is going through the fine bypass filter at any time. This system eliminates the oem bypass valve the way I have it hooked up.

The 1/2" hoses simply feed into an adapter block that replaces the OEM filter adapter. I like the reasons to have the system in place as Steve mentioned, but for my use, it is probably a little overkill. Since I do race, the system expands my 7qt pan to about 9qt, which cannot hurt.

My oil pressure did drop using the system, but still in an acceptable range.

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Old 02-17-2020, 09:09 PM
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Maybe I'm wrong here....but I would not recommend blocking the OE oil filter bypass. At least have some kind of filter bypass. The filter media will not be able to handle full flow of the oil pump. Something has to give somewhere. I suppose you can find a filter with a internal bypass. Sure would be interesting to know how much oil is actually bypassed cold or at higher RPM's

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Old 02-18-2020, 01:37 AM
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First of all the by pass filter system will filter particles roughly 20 times smaller than any full flow filter will. Oil changes can be extended a minimum 3-4 times longer than with a full flow system because of the much better filtration with a by pass system. You can add an extra quart of oil just by using a by pass system.

Below is a schematic to show how a by pass system is plumbed:



The factory filter system is left intact and the by pass system is plumbed separately independent of the original full flow system. The by pass system runs through a 1/8" inch restrictor orifice and doesn't supply any oil to internally oiled engine parts. It runs a closed loop from a pressure source and returns oil right back to the oil pan. It cleans roughly 1 quart in a minute.

I personally have been using the system in my 05 GTO, and my 93 6.5 diesel dually for about 9 years and have actually paid for the system in just saving on oil and filters in 4 years. It also saves my a lot of time by not having to climb under the vehicles to change oil all the time. I can change my by pass filter from the top without getting under the vehicle, and just add 1 quart of makeup oil. I also don't have to worry about running over the oil change intervals, and damaging the engine.

Face it, the real only reason to do frequent oil changes is because your factory system allows the oil to be filled with particles that the filter lets pass through it. The average filter only filters to between 20-40 microns, a by pass system filters to 1-2 microns. GM and other engine manufacturers have tested and proven that the abrasives between 5-10 microns cause the majority of engine wear and can easily pass through the media in a factory designed system. If you use a finer media those particles are removed from the oil, you just change filters and leave the oil in the engine. Filtering to the much better standard can extend the life of any I/C engine by roughly three times. My LS2 GTO has 140,000 miles, my 6.5 diesel has 270,000 miles, both are in excellent condition, I normally run my oil for 3-4 years. 30-35,000 miles

The factory designed system is better than nothing, but leaves a lot of room for improvement. The improvement is a by pass filter system.

I used to be a dealer for Frantz by pass oil filters, but the company was sold and I'm no longer recognized as a dealer by the current owners.

That's a brief rundown of how and why the filters are used, ask away if you have any further concerns.

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Last edited by Sirrotica; 02-18-2020 at 01:44 AM.
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Old 02-18-2020, 09:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TedRamAirII View Post
Maybe I'm wrong here....but I would not recommend blocking the OE oil filter bypass. At least have some kind of filter bypass. The filter media will not be able to handle full flow of the oil pump. Something has to give somewhere. I suppose you can find a filter with a internal bypass. Sure would be interesting to know how much oil is actually bypassed cold or at higher RPM's
From what I have read, the larger full flow filters such as this will handke full flow without a bypass. The system has been working for me so far, but I am not starting the car up at below zero temps either...
https://www.amazon.com/WIX-Filters-5...47925914&psc=1

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Old 02-18-2020, 09:32 AM
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I'm curious about the application of a bypass filter to synthetic oils. One of the great advantages of synthetics is the long chain polymer construction and the lubrication advantages they provide. One of the short comings is that the long chain polymers eventually get progressively "chopped" up by extreme pressure events .... HFT engines, gear oil pumps, cam chains etc. Normally it's not an issue in an engine, but it can be in gearboxes, differentials if not changed at the recommended frequency.

My point being, particulate contamination is not the only consideration when it comes to oil change frequency. There is heat break down (thermal scission), chemical combustion by-product contamination, the above mentioned mechanical breakdown in the molecular structure of the oil, some fuel contamination, and even free-radical scission of the long chains with extended use.

I know in high performance motorcycle gearboxes that usually share the same oil as the engine, they recommend oil change frequency taking into consideration the destruction of the long chain polymers by the constant high contact pressures found in gear sets. Not a huge issue for automotive engines, but there would be limits to longevity even in automotive engines.

To be honest, I have no idea if these issues would be a factor in a street driven vehicle. Specially with a quart of make-up oil now and then. Most probably it would be far less of an issue than particulate contamination would be ... clean old oil is most definitely better than dirty new oil

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Old 02-18-2020, 11:35 AM
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I run synthetic in both of my vehicles currently, when I first installed the filter on my diesel dually I was running regular Rotella, and switched to full synthetic Rotella about 4 years ago, as a matter of fact that oil is now 4 years old . As you say the quart of makeup oil will fortify the oil as you add more miles to the original oil.

The people that currently sell and own the Frantz by pass oil filters, are the same people that own "Hot Shots Sercret". They sell synthetic oil as well as additives and recommend that with their oil supplemented with the Frantz oil filter can be left in the engine for 60,000 miles safely. I have no reason to not believe that claim.

Back when the Frantz oil filter was first put into use (50s) there were people that never changed their oil, they just added the makeup oil, and changed the media. The media is a roll of tightly wrapped, coarse, janitorial grade, toilet paper. When I was actively selling the Frantz filter I heard many testimonials of the virtues of using them from users.

There are also manufacturers of larger filters (Semis etc.) that use rolls of paper towel for their media, which work on the same principle as the smaller Frantz filter does. Gulf Coast is one of the best known for people that want to used rolled paper media in large engines such as OTR trucks, and stationary engines, such as those used on oil rigs:

http://www.gulfcoastfilters.com/

The current owners of Frantz currently have a packaged media (same thing as the old cellulose toilet paper media) available, and they now have a synthetic made media which is supposed to be better than the cellulose media is. I'm still using the toilet paper media in both of my own vehicles as it works very well, is easily available, and there is no down side to using it. I believe the new owners wanted to get away from the adage of using toilet paper as a media, and all the BS stories it spawned, tons of toilet paper filter stories on the net, some good, some totally bull, and not good.

For purists that want a spin on can filter there are companies such as Amsoil that offer their media encased in a can, but I have seen cutaways of some of these cans and the media is pretty damn close to the same TP that the Frantz filter uses. Some of the newer designs have synthetic media in the can so not all are the same. Wix and Baldwin also offer filter cartridges for by pass oil filters if you decide you would rather have the media contained in a can. You can build your own system if you prefer using a commercially available filter and base and then makeup your own plumbing for your application.

Here are a couple sites of sellers of the Frantz style filters if anyone cares to read up on their products and they have FAQ sections that people ask them about their concerns.

https://www.toiletpaperoilfilter.com...ercompany.html

https://www.frantzfilters.com/

There are many pictures of the insides of engines on the net that have used by pass filters compared to engines that have used only the factory designed system full flow filters. In all cases there is no varnish or discoloration of the internal engine parts due to oil that was left to accumulate the small particulate that easily flows through the standard filter. The only way you will duplicate those conditions with a standard filter system is to keep changing oil very frequently before the solids are allowed to build up in the low spots in the engine.

Since I've been a mechanic all my life I have seen the inside of engines that are spotless inside, but you know the owners never neglected their oil and filter changes during the whole life of the engine. I have also seen the other end of the spectrum where the internal engine parts are covered with black slimy sludge due to neglect of oil and filter changes. Not only have the allowed the insides of the engine to become full of the impurities that their standard oil filter is incapable of removing, they have cut thousands of miles off the life of their engines.

FWIW, a neglected engine that has sludge in it, can be easily cleaned up inside just by installing a by pass filter and continuing to run it with higher quality filtration. It will remove the accumulated varnish and sludge slowly without endangering the engine by using harsh oil flush products, possibly causing the oil pump pickup to plug and starve the oil supply.

There are many reasons that the by pass system will save you money and extend the life of the engine. It's not possible to cover them all in a post, so if you're curious about the benefits I suggest you investigate the online by pass oil filter information available. By all means, please disregard the so called experts, that want to spew that their wifes, uncles, cousin, had a neighbor that used a TP oil filter that disintegrated, and it clogged up the oil galleys, leading to engine damage. It ain't so, but the myth is still out there. If you do any real investigation you will see it in print somewhere on the net.

In the end there is no downside to using a superior filter on any I/C engine, same as there is no downside to keeping the oil as clean as possible in an engine. My only regret is that I wished I had found out the advantages of by pass oil filters years ago, and started using the superior system in my own vehicles. It does nothing but benefit the owner by extending the useful life of the engine and save money by not throwing out perfectly good oil that would be just fine for extended use, had it been filtered to higher standard.

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Old 02-18-2020, 08:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve25 View Post
You can run a 2 Qt filter on them which drastically reduces restriction at high flow rates and you get a partial oil cooler effect, both of which are great pluses!

If your motor is out of the car it pays to just drill and tap the oil filter adapter pad for 1/2" pipe, but it is a bit of a job, especially if the motor is assembled since you need to keep the metal shavings out from the oil passages which can be done with paper towels packed in the block holes.

Also be sure to run 1/2" ID lines to and from.

If you can't drill & tap the block then be sure to not over tighten the lines in the block adapter as even with Telfon sealer they will bend out of shape and leak.
Ask me how I know this, lol!
NO!

You are confusing a "remote" oil filter with a "bypass" oil filter. They are not the same.

A remote, full-flow oil filter would need 1/2" plumbing or larger. All the oil going to the bearings and lifters and such goes through the full-flow filter first.

A bypass filter gets by just fine with "Dash 4" hose, essentially the equivalent to 1/4" OD tubing. (Smaller than 1/4" ID) Only a fraction of the oil is filtered, but it's filtered so well that it's essentially "pure" again; at least from particles. The bypass filter doesn't remove gasoline, or other liquid contamination.

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Old 02-19-2020, 11:06 AM
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I run this AMSoil setup, houses the full flow (EAO15) with the bypass (EaBP90) in one housing:

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...?code=BMK23-EA

I also run an oil thermostat and cooler w/fans.

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Last edited by 92GTA; 02-19-2020 at 11:12 AM.
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Old 02-19-2020, 12:19 PM
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One of the best demos of what a by pass system does over a conventional full flow filter. It removes the minute small particles that a conventional filter lets through and in a dense cellulose filter. It will also remove water/condensation from the oil that is used to form acids in the oil, absence of water stops acids from forming. Watching these videos are probably much better than just reading some of the points I touched upon in my posts:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AaBuV9pOcrU

Another good video from Kleenoil that further explains the benefits of a by pass filter system:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H9IVcZ8cqTg


Many of the canister by pass filters use synthetic media, one of the downsides of the synthetic media is that it cannot remove water from the oil that cellulose media will.

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Old 02-19-2020, 12:30 PM
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One thing I was curious about... the amsoil E026 full flow filter advertises filtration down to 10 micron, while the cross referenced wix 51773 is rated at 30 micron.

Since I do lose a few pounds of oil pressure running the bypass system with the E026, would the Wix promote more flow through the primary filter, with the bypass filter eventually picking up the slack gathering the small particles?

Probably splitting hairs- or in this case microns...

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Old 02-19-2020, 12:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leeklm View Post
One thing I was curious about... the amsoil E026 full flow filter advertises filtration down to 10 micron, while the cross referenced wix 51773 is rated at 30 micron.

Since I do lose a few pounds of oil pressure running the bypass system with the E026, would the Wix promote more flow through the primary filter, with the bypass filter eventually picking up the slack gathering the small particles?

Probably splitting hairs- or in this case microns...

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Watch both of the Kleenoil videos, it should answer most every question you have about by pass oil filters.

30 Microns is right in the area of full flow factory filters limits, The particulates that do the most wear on engines is 15 microns and below. The only way to eliminate the sub 15 micron particulate from a conventional full flow system is to drain the oil frequently, which costs money. It's more economical to filter those particles out with a better quality filter than to keep draining the oil to keep the concentration of those particles low. Millions of gallons of oil annually are drained and thrown out because of inefficient filtering.

The typical full flow filter is capable of passing around 80 quarts of oil a minute to keep internal engine parts adequately supplied. In contrast a by pass filter filters about 1 quart a minute, which filter would you think does a better job of removing abrasives from the oil? FWIW, most all by pass filters are below 5 microns, the Frantz I used to sell, and currently use filter down to 1-2 microns. Since the by pass systems don't supply any oil directly to internal engine parts they can be very restrictive to the standard of how much, and how fine they're capable of filtering down to.

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Last edited by Sirrotica; 02-19-2020 at 01:05 PM.
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Old 02-19-2020, 01:05 PM
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I agree with what you are saying and will watch the videos. My main question is does a person benefit from 10 micron full flow filter when running a 2 micron bypass with it- or could you be better served with more oil pressure running a typical 30 micron full flow WITH the 2 micron bypass?

Again, probably splitting hairs

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Old 02-19-2020, 01:19 PM
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A full flow can't efficiently filter to 10 microns, most full flows bottom limit is 20 microns most are larger yet 20-40 microns. If you have a full flow filtering to 10 microns it's going to be pushing the by pass valve open a good portion of the time and allowing unfiltered oil to go directly to the internal parts. As the media gets plugged, the by pass will open even more of the time. Full flow systems have to strike a balance between flow and efficiency, too fine of a filter is going to be very inefficient as to how much volume it can filter and how much goes around the filter.

What it comes down to is the way the system is designed is inefficient, oil should not be filtered on the pressure side of the pump. I worked on hydraulic equipment for 15 years and none of those systems filter oil on the pressure side of the pump. The most efficient filter is not going to be between the pump and the working parts being lubricated. It will be on the return side of the lubricated parts, or a by pass system that filters oil and returns it to tank.

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Old 02-19-2020, 01:25 PM
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Oops, mistake on my part, the amsoil e026 advertises 20 micron, not 10!

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Old 02-19-2020, 04:27 PM
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it really makes little difference if it's 10 or 20, as soon as the pressure differential becomes too great the by pass valve opens, and a portion of the oil is not filtered. A by pass filter will filter every ounce of oil that is put into it until, if neglected, the filter becomes completely plugged. if the owner doesn't then change the filter, there is no harm, no foul because in that scenario the by pass system is rendered ineffective, and you just have the full flow system as a backup. You will give up the better filtering and it just reverts back to a full flow scenario.

Ideally the owner will change filters timely, and not neglect the by pass system. The by pass system is really easy to tell if it has become plugged because the outside of the canister will become cold to the touch as there is no oil flowing through it. It's a pretty simple foolproof system, but to be effective it can't be neglected indefinitely.

In summary no damage will occur if the by pass is neglected, you just loose the ability to filter oil down to 1-5 microns depending upon which filter media you decide on. The thing is the by pass system works as described, it will pay for itself by saving on frequent oil changes and the hidden element of engine component longevity, hard to put a dollar figure on that because you don't frequently disassemble an engine to measure wear.

At 67 I really don't enjoy laying on a creeper to change oil and filter every 3-5,000 miles, plus buying 6-8 quarts of oil that still has lots of life left in it still. But I have to change it with a full flow system because it's contaminated, and the longer it's in the engine the more damage it does to the internal parts. Really the better filtration is a win, win situation, no drawbacks that I've ever seen.

I need to add this, I had to replace the waterpump in my 6.5 diesel about 3 years ago. To remove the waterpump you need to remove a portion of the timing cover so the timing chain is exposed. That timing chain was still very tight and there was none of those black deposits normally found when you remove the timing cover on most engines, especially with 270,000 miles on them.

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Old 02-19-2020, 10:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leeklm View Post
From what I have read, the larger full flow filters such as this will handke full flow without a bypass. The system has been working for me so far, but I am not starting the car up at below zero temps either...
https://www.amazon.com/WIX-Filters-5...47925914&psc=1

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That filter has a Bypass Valve. Filter Flows 9-13 GPM. What is the Volume of a Pontiac oil pump? Maybe up to 18-20 GPM at 3000 rpm (6000 Engine RPM) That bypass will be open a lot! If I am reading this right?
https://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/Pa...px?Part=137336

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Old 02-23-2020, 07:52 AM
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This the set up I've used on my motors.

With the flow rate of two 2 Qt filters you can can just plumb the lines right to the block and do away with the bypass .
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The PY Online Forums is the largest online gathering of Pontiac enthusiasts anywhere in the world. Founded in 1991, it was also the first online forum for people to gather and talk about their Pontiacs. Since then, it has become the mecca of Pontiac technical data and knowledge that no other place can surpass.

 




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