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Old 02-10-2018, 12:27 PM
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Is the parking brake cable mechanism supposed to have a spring on it or does it just spring back from the stretch of the cable

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468/TKO600 Ford thru bolt equipped 64 Tempest Custom. Custom Nocturne Blue with black interior.
  #22  
Old 02-10-2018, 12:44 PM
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Love 64s and it looks like your going to have a fun one however I would advise relocating your build thread to the 64-65 section especially if your reassembling and and will have many question regarding all the little pieces. Lots of smart and experienced people in the dedicated sections that don't venture over here often

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Old 02-13-2018, 01:01 PM
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Subscribing!

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1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624
1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger
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Old 02-15-2018, 02:29 AM
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Well I have stirred up a hornets nest about Maaco in the body shop section. Long story short all the estimates for paint and final prep are high. Like REALLY high. I only want a factory paint job and I only have a few minor dents left to pull and a tiny bit of rust so I went by Maaco. Talked to the manager for a long time, explained what I wanted and my concerns and he showed me a 77 Blazer they had just done a repaint for that looked fine to me. Everything is off the car as far as trim goes. He said the would take it to metal skim and block prime seal and paint base clear for around 6000 give or take since I had already removed all the body trim and moldings. I think I’m gonna do it. The manager was knowledgeable was understanding of my apprehension of a Maaco paint job etc. the paint will be PPG which he had the codes for. That will be the next big step.

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Old 02-15-2018, 06:21 AM
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Hi 64 I am one of the skeptical ones in the Maaco thread. My only advice as to getting it done at Maaco would be to get every detail you discussed with the manager on paper. If things go sour at least you have a written guarantee. You seem to be enjoying this project and after all is done you want to be able to look at the car with a smile of satisfaction not regret.
My first project was going to be a 67 Tempest that I was going to clone. It would have needed 10k plus in sheet metal. I decided to part ways with the Tempest and find a true gto as my project. After all was I figured if I was going to spend that kind of coin I wanted to have #'s matching car. But that's just me. My big mistakes have been when it came to paint and I lost time and money because of it. You know what you want as far a finish product just make sure the shop does and backs it up!

Best of luck with the Tempest!

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Old 02-15-2018, 06:44 AM
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Old 02-17-2018, 12:33 AM
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It’s gonna take me a long time to save up the money to do my chrome and paint since this last batch of bodywork depleted my funds. In the meantime I have several things I’m gonna do and one of them is rebuild my front end. Anybody got any tips or techniques for doing the springs without the weight of the engine? I want to do as much as I can while everything is off the front end. The reason I am retired from the military and police so young is because of rheumatism and I can only do so much bending leaning and stooping before I start hurting.

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Old 02-17-2018, 12:41 AM
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Took my car to Maaco for a full estimate today because I wanted to know how much to save and show the manager more than pictures. He said he saw no reason why it couldn’t be finished out for 6000 or less. Shot in base/clear with my exact specs on gloss % for the dash and all the extras I want. Paint will be PPG and he said after the strip it I will come down and mark anything I find and they will fix it. Weld in new metal where appropriate etc. I know a lot of people think I am foolish for even considering Maaco but I really can’t stomach the estimates I got and this car is going to be driven. I don’t want to fear a scratch on a paint job that cost 2 or 3 times the cost of my panel replacement

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Old 02-20-2018, 12:15 AM
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In my attempt to either build the worlds nicest 64 Tempest or light cash on fire depending who you ask I have stumbled across the rockland standard gear t56 magnum. Basically after talking to the head of the aftermarket sales division he told me that nothing I could ever do to it would break it and he would warranty it for life against everything except an improperly setup (engaging/disengaging) clutch.
It’s basically a blueprinted T56 magnum with even more robust parts installed and the shifter mechanism reworked to make it shift like glass. It’s exactly 900 bucks higher than SST just for the transmission. SST wants 3200 for their magnum and they want 4100 for Tranzilla. Thoughts?

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Old 02-20-2018, 08:58 AM
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I know a few people who have that trans in high HP cars and they are surviving abuse. The one is a Stage 1 70 GS, and has a professionally built 455 in that 10 sec car. Another is a 2006 Z06 with a pro built engine with a supercharger, just a hair below 1000HP.

I don't agree with the clutch setups Rockland recommends, but they are fairly indestructible. Neither of those folks have issues with their' setup, and have been driving them for over a year.

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1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624
1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger
Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be
  #31  
Old 02-20-2018, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 64speed View Post
It’s gonna take me a long time to save up the money to do my chrome and paint since this last batch of bodywork depleted my funds. In the meantime I have several things I’m gonna do and one of them is rebuild my front end. Anybody got any tips or techniques for doing the springs without the weight of the engine? I want to do as much as I can while everything is off the front end. The reason I am retired from the military and police so young is because of rheumatism and I can only do so much bending leaning and stooping before I start hurting.
I feel your pain. I was medically retired on disability at age 47 ( bilateral foraminal stenosis). That is why I put anything I do on sawhorses. That way I don’t have to bend or stoop. Both Lowes and Home Depot sell sawhorses rated for 1,000lbs each(2,000lbs per pair). When I finally get the Cat’s frame home( hopefully this fall), it will be going on two sets.

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Old 02-20-2018, 09:50 PM
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Just installed my 9 inch and it was really easy but I am kind of bummed because my UMI shock tower brace won’t clear the trunk floor and frame. Called tech support and they told me they run into that from time to time and to loosen the bushings up and jack the body up. Already done that once so I guess I will just go without. If anyone is interested I will take 100 bucks and pay for the ride

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  #33  
Old 02-25-2018, 09:32 PM
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I got all my wiring harnesses for my car and was looking them over but I don’t see a lead for the dome light. Does anyone know where it hooks up and how to hide the wire? Is this something the average upholsterer can do for me? I want it to work but electricity and hiding wires is not my thing that’s why I bought the M&H harnesses. Plug and play

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Old 02-26-2018, 10:26 AM
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The dome leads run from the intermediate harness that runs from the fuse box to the trunk. It goes up the C area in the quarter panel on the driver's side. Orange and white wires I believe, and has to be installed before the headliner goes in.

I suggest a service manual and an assembly manual, both are valuable references and worth every penny spent.

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1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624
1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger
Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be
  #35  
Old 02-26-2018, 02:04 PM
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"It’s gonna take me a long time to save up the money to do my chrome and paint since this last batch of bodywork depleted my funds. In the meantime I have several things I’m gonna do and one of them is rebuild my front end. Anybody got any tips or techniques for doing the springs without the weight of the engine? I want to do as much as I can while everything is off the front end. The reason I am retired from the military and police so young is because of rheumatism and I can only do so much bending leaning and stooping before I start hurting."


Get an INTERNAL spring compressor- there is only one screw for this tool; the two screw, twin hook compressors are for external strut springs- and unthread the hook. Then remove the lower hook (the one that slide along the screw shaft). Get a washer that the screw shaft will fit through. put some grease on the washer, then slip the screw shaft through the washer and into the UPPER shock mount from above- it is now hanging down into the cavity where the coil spring resides.
Thread the first hook back onto the screw shaft, then seat the coil spring in the upper helix mount of the frame. Tighten the compressor enough to hold the spring up to the frame.
hang the lower control arm from its frame mounts, then gauge where the lower spring pigtail needs to be so it lines up with the pocket in the lower control arm (the end of the spring needs to cover one hole, but not the next hole), then adjust the spring so the pigtail falls into this location.
Tight then spring (not a bad idea to put a cable or chain through it- just in case), then move the lower control arm into place with a floor jack.
Assemble the control arms, spindle, and balljoints, then loosen the spring compressor.
Torque the balljoints and cotter pin them in place.
After the weight of the vehicle is loading the control arms, torque them.... Or use Global West Del-A-Lum bushing and just tighten everything up when you install the springs.

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  #36  
Old 02-27-2018, 09:45 PM
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I have the global West knockoffs which look to be really quality pieces. I have tall ball joints upper and lower and factory ac delco shocks and springs. I am anxious to see if the back comes down any once the back glass bumper and gas tank at installed cause right now it’s sitting level and high with no weight on the front end. All I know is those hotchkiss springs rode like a buggy. If I have to lower the car after I get the engine in I will use UMI cause they have a set that takes into account for aluminum heads and intake. Plus isn’t the tall ball joint supposed to give you a half an inch drop too?

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Old 02-27-2018, 10:05 PM
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Also there is a thread in the 64-65 section about LED taillights. Can you just plug them in or do you need a special flasher to get your turn signals etc to work

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Old 02-28-2018, 09:08 AM
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If a set of springs 'rode like a buggy', then there was some other factor than the springs, most likely. 2 most common factors, incorrect installation (OE bushings tightened incorrectly) and shocks.

I know not many would run as much spring rate as I do, and it doesn't have a bad ride quality.

LEDs, yes, you need to run the correct flasher unit. Not a big deal though. It's best to not mix LEDs with incandescent bulbs, and I can't say for sure what the impact would be if you do.

I will have more first hand knowledge within the next couple months though, will share.

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1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624
1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger
Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be
  #39  
Old 02-28-2018, 11:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HWYSTR455 View Post
LEDs, yes, you need to run the correct flasher unit. Not a big deal though. It's best to not mix LEDs with incandescent bulbs, and I can't say for sure what the impact would be if you do.


.
Haven't found an issue with that, at least on one vehicle anyway. My father runs LED's in his GTO. All the tail lights and side markers etc... But when he installed yellow LED bulbs in the front lower running/turn signal lights, something wonky happened and signals wouldn't flash, some of the lights would stay on and some wouldn't.

I had a feeling a ground wasn't being completed somewhere. However once he reinstalled standard yellow incandescent bulbs just in the front signal lights only, everything returned to normal and works as it should. So he just left it that way, still running LED's in the tail lights. He does use a different flasher in it to work with the LED's.

Kind of weird but his car didn't like LED's in the front market lights.

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Old 02-28-2018, 11:38 AM
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Something was definitely off on your Hotchkis spring deal-- I ALWAYS run them on street driven cars, and, to me, their ride is smooth, taught, and controlled.
I have Hotchkis in my 74 Formula, and already put them in the rear of my 64 Tempest. I'm getting them for the front of the Tempest too, but I have to wait until I get the control arms situated- If I use a lower with a spring pocket, that may lower the car an additional inch, so I'd only need 1" drop vs. 2" like I have in the rear.
I previously had Hotchkis springs in my 68 LeMans, and that thing rode and handled fantastically!

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