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Old 01-28-2020, 08:30 PM
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68lemans462 68lemans462 is offline
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Default How to seal a rear differential cap

I'm about 0/3 getting the rear diff cap on the 8.5 Yukon to seal. I've tried all the normal stuff like straightening the cap out, installing dry etc. I'm wondering if using a gasket is my problem. I usually but the right stuff on each side of the gasket and smack it together. I have put right stuff on the bolts as well and they still seem to back out and/or loosen up should I be using Loctite on these bolts? What's the torque setting? I finally bought a new cap and I'm ready to put this problem to bed but would like to get it right with the new cap... Any suggestions?

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1968 Lemans. 37,000 original miles. GTO clone. 462ci/KRE 290 heads. UltraDyne 280/288 Solid/850 Qjet by Cliff/Performer RPM/TSP 9.5" in TH400/8.5" 3.42 gears/3950# Race weight/12.58@106 at Bandimere speedway high altitude
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Old 01-28-2020, 09:05 PM
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Scott Thelander Scott Thelander is offline
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when I need to use "THE RIGHT STUFF" I coat a ll 4 clean surfaces ... I will even hit the gasket with brake clean b4 also
as there can be oils on the gasket from fingers ...storage ,,, handleing ... manufacturing ...and let it sit overnite

as for the bolts backing out ... thats wierd

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Old 01-29-2020, 12:13 AM
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dataway dataway is offline
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If you have something real flat, try lapping the cover first, look for high spots on it.

Wouldn't imagine the torque would be more than about 20 ft/lbs. Stamped steel oil pan is usually about 18.

Are you sure the vent is not plugged?

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Old 01-29-2020, 10:35 PM
salem1912 salem1912 is offline
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Are your bolts bottoming out. Sealer can get inside the bolt holes and keep the bolts from tightening down.

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Old 01-31-2020, 09:57 PM
mgarblik mgarblik is offline
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I install them all the time, clean and dry with a gasket, no sealer. Use a torque wrench 22 ft. lbs. Make sure Right Stuff or other sealer is not in the bolt holes as mentioned keeping the bolts from clamping because they are bottomed out in the old sealer. Use a dental tool to clean out. As an alternative, you can apply RTV to the cover without a gasket and assemble it that way. All the Chrysler covers have come from the factory that way for 25-30 years and seldom leak. Personally, not a fan of Right Stuff sealer and I don't use it. It dries too hard, nearly impossible to remove and bends the crap out of sheet metal parts on removal. JMO. Of course, make sure the rear cover is your leak source. Other possible leaks in the cover area: 1. Broken welds between axle tube and center section, (very common), 2. Pinion seal leaking 3. Vent tube leak


Last edited by mgarblik; 01-31-2020 at 10:05 PM.
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