[grivera]

Originally Posted by panhead59

Cam was already broken in. Reused old cam that only had 1500 miles on it. Machinist looked it over, and said it looked fine.

Are you also reusing the old lifters maintaining the original lobe positions? Or new lifters needing break-in?

[panhead59]

Old lifters kept in order

[mchell]

So it’s not acting like it wants to start as stated in your post #40?....thought you found some wiring issue?

[Joe's Garage]

If the plugs are REALLY wet, you might need to pull the plugs and dry them off with brake cleaner or compressed air.

Then, with the plugs OUT, turn the engine over by hand until you are on the compression stroke on #1. Bring it up slowly and line the timing mark up with the 12* BTDC mark.

Reinstall the plugs. Keep the plug wire for #1 off.

Then slightly loosen the distributor hold-down. Not falling out loose, but so the you can rotate the distributor by hand but with a fair amount of resistance.

Turn it BY HAND in a COUNTER-CLOCKWISE direction about the distance between two side-by-side terminals.

Stick the metal end of a phillips screwdriver with a PLASTIC handle into the plug wire so that you can hold or lay the metal part of the screwdriver close (but not touching) to the block or any part of the vehicle that is grounded (block / frame / inner fender).

Turn the ignition key to ON. I'm presuming you have the battery fully charged.

With the key ON, slowly rotate the distributor CLOCKWISE until you get a spark at the screwdriver.

Tighten the distributor hold-down and reinstall the #1 plug wire.

Now the engine SHOULD start, so long as you have gas and spark.

If you DON'T get a spark within that amount of rotation, try doing the same thing using the #6 plug wire. If you DO get spark there, then your distributor is 180* out.

It might take a couple tries to get the distributor right to the point where the coil fires, but remember that it doesn't have to be 100% perfect. It will be close enough to start and then you can use your timing light to get it where you want it to be.

GOOD LUCK!

[panhead59]

The wiring issue was the blk/red wire going to ign. I had it hooked up to petronix blk when it should ve been to red. When i changed it i got some action, some fire. I did exaggerate though in post 40. I was being rushed to quit for the day and didn't really pursue it any further at that time. I really thought i had found the problem. Today i go out and get an occasional pop, but thats it. Changed rotor,cap, petronix. No change. Only test i know of yet to do is checking spark in run, not start position.

[panhead59]

Joe's garage- so u r static timing engine. I will try that method in the morning. That will also tell me if i have spark with key in "run" position. Tks

[tom s]

If all else fails read post #28!Tom

[Old Goat 67]

Put the points back in.

[dmac]

Originally Posted by panhead59

Yes firing order correct. And counter clockwise. Ok i have some progress FINALLY. When hooking up wires to dizzy the tape fell off that was marking location. There's 3 wires. Red and black go directly to coil, and to petronix (dizzy).Then there was/is a black with red stripe wire. I didn't really know where it went since my tape marking it had fallen off. I put it to black or ground. Tracing it leads me to the wire plug/connector on firewall. Most likely going to ign. Switch. So i switched it to red wire spot going into dizzy. Bingo ! Shes not started yet but shes raising hell ! Popping, spittin' buckin' ! Gotta quit for today ( 3 yr. Old "princess" time ) but at this point, i feel like she'll be running tomorrow. Lets hope ! Tks for all the interest and help. I'll let ya know how it runs tomorrow !

That sounds like the wire that provides full voltage to the coil when cranking.

[Bentwheelbob]

Originally Posted by Old Goat 67

Put the points back in.

Yeah, I think I would find a known distributor that works and give that a whirl. Eliminate this from the equation.

[mgarblik]

Post 28 and 64 are basically saying the same type of procedure. Both excellent. I would do that next. I guess if after that, you verify spark but still won't try and start, you could sacrifice an old spark plug and break or cut off the ground electrode. Repeat test. Or better yet use a spark tester. This would verify you have enough spark energy to fire the plug under compression. It only takes about 2K volts to jump a gap in the open air. With ground electrode off, 5-6K volts. A spark tester, typically 10-15K. It's possible something is wrong with the Pertonix or the coil, but not likely. This would help verify.

[Greg Reid]

Also, verify voltage to the distributor in both Start and Run positions of the switch. That sputtering and popping sounds a lot like what it does when it tries to start but only when the starter is engaged.....and as soon as you release the key, it loses ignition voltage.

[Jim Scites]

Hook a wire from the plus side of the battery to the plus side of the coil and crank it over to see if it starts. Only thing is it won't shut off with the key if it does start, you will have to remove the wire to get it to shut off. It's an easy way to test if there is enough voltage to the pertronix ignition.

[steve25]

Please check your Cam/ distributor setting again.

With the rotor at number 1 pull the passenger side valve cover and the Exh valve for number 6 should be open if you have this relationship right.

[panhead59]

I'll check all that is mentioned. Tks for hanging in there. If all this fails, i'll put points back in and try it. Tks again.

[steve25]

And also confirm TDC on 1 again just for S its and giggles!

[hobbygto65]

It sounds like you've tried everything except pulling the timing cover and checking the alignment of the timing gears. I think at this point it would be worth it. At that point I would set my cam gear at 6 and crank gear at 12 and start over.

[johnta1]

Is this a hydraulic cam?

Either way how do you adjust valves?

As it sits now, I'd back the adjusting nut off 1 turn if hydraulic. Then try starting the engine.
If solid, back off 1/4 turn.

With all the other stuff being posted hard to say what is wrong now?

[64speed]

Proper distributor wiring? Remember Pontiacs spin the opposite direction from Chevrolet

[steve25]

John in post 78 could be on to something for sure, in which case try this.

Pull all the plugs out so that the motor is easy to bar over by Hand.

Next when the valves on each cylinder are closed ( on the base circle of the Cam) back off each rocker nut until the push rod is easy to spin and has just a hair of play.

Next pop the plugs and wires back on and hopefully she will atleast kick pretty good for you if you had some valves set too tight.