[Dragncar]

I know most of the guys who make that kind of power run aluminum. Is there a consensus where the safe steel rod limit in a Pontiac is ? Exactly why. Oiling ? RPMs ?
The other thread is about the heads. I am interested in which rod and why ?
Is it 850 HP ? Seen some of them. Not sure how far you can push it.
Plenty of Mopars and Chevy,s do it with steel. Why are we different ?

[John Langer]

Detonation. The aluminum rod works like a shock absorber in high compression high rpm Pontiacs. It isn’t 1972. We don’t necessarily have an oiling issue. I’ve had my short block live to 9200rpm with a 60psi Mellings oil pump. We have resolved all of the oiling issues. I have seen people throw steel rods out the side of an oil pan and bend them like a pretzel and swear it was an oiling issue so they put a dry sump on their motor to fix the “issue” just to kick them out again. Me, under 800hp, I would use a good quality steel rod. Over that, only aluminum. Take this information for what it is worth. I read it on the internet somewhere.

[RAIV-Z]

Well over 1000hp here with Callies Ultra 6.7 steel rods on a 4.5 crank 9.1:1 boosted engine in the 7700-7800 rpm range. Mains and rod rearing look great after 1.5 seasons. Wet sump using a titan oil pump.
I am planning on changing to an aluminum rod during the refresh.

[steve25]

If your going for over 900 hp and want to run steel rods and not have to give things a second thought, then Oliver big buck Billet Rods would be my pick.

[GTOGEORGE]

Boosted applications aluminum rods are the best, I’ve run/ran both!


GTO George

[Half-Inch Stud]

...need 1 aluminum rod with a 2.2" big end. helps to have a .927" little end.

6.625" or real darn close

[mgarblik]

Originally Posted by RAIV-Z

Well over 1000hp here with Callies Ultra 6.7 steel rods on a 4.5 crank 9.1:1 boosted engine in the 7700-7800 rpm range. Mains and rod rearing look great after 1.5 seasons. Wet sump using a titan oil pump.
I am planning on changing to an aluminum rod during the refresh.

With the level of success you have had with these rods, why the change? I am just curious. We have always run BME aluminum rods since 1996 with great success over 900 HP, but as John mentioned, detonation was our concern.

[mgarblik]

Curious of the choice of the SBC wrist pin choice? Is it the ability to move the pin out of the ring pack? We run a 2.200 big end and a 1.094 small end. We were consistently bending that size wrist pin, thick taper wall made from Vasco-Jet material. Some bent .009-.011! We have now switched to some sort of "super alloy" material and they are doing much better. I can't imagine a .927 pin living in a real high HP application.

[RAIV-Z]

Originally Posted by mgarblik

With the level of success you have had with these rods, why the change? I am just curious. We have always run BME aluminum rods since 1996 with great success over 900 HP, but as John mentioned, detonation was our concern.

The Callies Ultra are working well, but we are planning on adding another 400-500hp this year. Shorter stroke, new pistons, higher rpm, seems like a good time to move to aluminum rods.

[Mark G]

Oliver billet connecting rods the only rods I will buy.

[GTOGEORGE]

Originally Posted by Mark G

Oliver billet connecting rods the only rods I will buy.

Been there done that.........I switched to aluminum but I’m running more power and put more laps on my engine.



GTO George

[Stan Weiss]

It depends. NHRA 500 ci N/A Pro Stock engine turn 10,500 RPM make almost 1500 HP and run steel rods. Don't ask the $$$$. LOL

Stan

[PAUL K]

Originally Posted by Mark G

Oliver billet connecting rods the only rods I will buy.

Has Oliver been fixed? Last two times I dealt with them they were in bad shape.

[John Langer]

Originally Posted by Stan Weiss

It depends. NHRA 500 ci N/A Pro Stock engine turn 10,500 RPM make almost 1500 HP and run steel rods. Don't ask the $$$$. LOL

Stan

I read somewhere on the Internet that many of the teams have gone back to aluminum Since they have the minimum bob weight rule. What works in pro stock doesn’t necessarily work with the Pontiac.

[Stan Weiss]

Originally Posted by John Langer

I read somewhere on the Internet that many of the teams have gone back to aluminum Since they have the minimum bob weight rule. What works in pro stock doesn’t necessarily work with the Pontiac.

John,
It has been a few years since I talked with anyone that knows. At that time they had gone back to steel because of where the minimum bob weight had been set at and they could then run less piston to head clearance.

Stan

[S/st 54]

Originally Posted by GTOGEORGE

Been there done that.........I switched to aluminum but I’m running more power and put more laps on my engine.



GTO George

George what rpm do you cross the 1/4 mile stripe at?

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by steve25

If your going for over 900 hp and want to run steel rods and not have to give things a second thought, then Oliver big buck Billet Rods would be my pick.

I have pretty much decided that I do not want to run the cam it would take to go for 900+.
Whatever I do it will be a 7500RPM and under kind of engine. Shifting less than that in competition.
I have Crower billets and Molnar Power adders and RPM billet Crowe copy rods. I am flush in steel rods. The Crower rods I do have are going in the 461 High Port engine right now.
Oliver, I hear has gone to ihsit recently. Thats from Mr. Molnar and he use to be the guy at Oliver. Sour grapes ? Maybe but if I bought new high dollar steel it would be Crower.

[Mark G]

Originally Posted by GTOGEORGE

Been there done that.........I switched to aluminum but I’m running more power and put more laps on my engine.



GTO George

Well my new motor will be about 500hp more than you have now and it's getting oliver billet connecting rods. Plus as for more laps I drive my car on the street & highway .. So once again you are talking out your azz ...

[PAUL K]

I was told I posted this information in the wrong thread... I hope this is the correct thread... I have several sets of Molnar rods, Oliver rods, Crower rods, BME rods, Carrillo rods, factory cast rods, Super Duty 421 rods, Super Duty 455 rods, RAV rods, 421 HO rods, 58-62 forged rods, 58-62 fully prepped rods, 7.08 long Mr Rod rods, Super Rods, Eagle rods, Scat rods... I am flush in rods.... I also have several sets of pushrods.

[Gary Kubisch]

Originally Posted by John Langer

Detonation. The aluminum rod works like a shock absorber in high compression high rpm Pontiacs. It isn’t 1972. We don’t necessarily have an oiling issue. I’ve had my short block live to 9200rpm with a 60psi Mellings oil pump. We have resolved all of the oiling issues. I have seen people throw steel rods out the side of an oil pan and bend them like a pretzel and swear it was an oiling issue so they put a dry sump on their motor to fix the “issue” just to kick them out again. Me, under 800hp, I would use a good quality steel rod. Over that, only aluminum. Take this information for what it is worth. I read it on the internet somewhere.

Interestiing...I thought there were more people going to steel rods in their NA engines. I agree though, PS is not the best comparison as I think the rotating assembly is a much "tighter" package.

I have Carrillo rods in my engine. But it ain't a Pontiac. Hell...some people say's not really a Buick anymore