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Old 02-15-2023, 09:47 AM
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Excellent! Thank you.

Really helps to see how they fit in ... I'm an A body guy .. so I actually had no idea how they fit into the dash.

I see now there is not a double lip like I thought there was.

I might have to ask for a height measurement of the stanchions as the radio bezel I have coming will not have that feature ... I was planning on getting the height based on the depth of the knob recesses where they seat against the dash.

One of the problems of describing parts like this verbally (or textually) is frame of reference, height, depth, width etc. ... depends on what you consider front/back/up/down I look at it thinking about how it prints, most people look at it as it sits in the real world.

We'll get this done ... if even just for the 1 out 100 people that use a delete plate

Next step ... custom radio plates for specific radios?

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Old 02-16-2023, 03:34 AM
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Ran some more test prints while I'm waiting for the bezel to arrive. I've got the support issues solved, back side is quite a bit nicer and the entire support structure comes off in one piece with a single tug.

Also working on unruhjonny's idea of a two part print, seems doable .. as long as the long thin lip section will print well and hold it's shape.

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Old 02-16-2023, 11:44 PM
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I did a fit check of the first prototype.

The size and shape is as close to perfect as can be had. Placing it on the flat ledge on the front, it's snug vertically and has only, maybe 1/16" slip side-to- side. The indent in the dash has a verrrrry slight curve on the sides so the straight edge of the plate has a teenie gap, if you're looking way to close. The first picture has the plate centered. The last picture on the right has the plate pushed hard to the left.

The surface finish pattern isn't an exact match to the factory dash but the level of anti-glare sheen is awfully close.

The distance from the front ledge to the back of the mounting bulge is about 0.44". The prototype mounting nubs are 0.25" tall so they could be lengthened to about 3/8" and work well for a washer and self-tapping screw. I can't comment on the center-to-center spacing because my dash holes got boogered up to fit an aftermarket radio.

The prototype plate is thin and flexible. That's not a problem for me since I'm going to "glue" it in the dash with a few dots of black RTV. If a person snugged the plate in with screws at the nubs, the tension might bulge the middle a bit? This could be improved by thickening the plate or by adding the factory-style raised edges.

Overall impression.....a concours judge looking a few inches away can nitpick. A normal person standing a few feet away could easily confuse it for a factory piece. I'm keeping this one!

Eric
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  #44  
Old 02-17-2023, 03:29 AM
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Excellent, thanks for posting the review. Great to see it in place ... so we are close I think. Yep I wondered about the flexibility, I think the lip around the edge will help that some, and getting the stanchions the right height is a necessity. I can print it thicker .. but without the lip I'm not sure that it will stiffen it much. Tempting to make it with PLA plastic instead of PETG as it's much stiffer ... but it also can get soft at the temps the interior of a car sees on a sunny day, and it doesn't have the UV resistance of PETG.

Don't glue it yet .. I'll have the next version ready in a week or so Although the type you have without the lip is going to have the best surface finish, so if that's the priority it might not get much better than what you have. At least I could print you one with the right height on the stanchions, and probably larger in diameter which might help stiffness.

I should have a bezel to work with tomorrow, will take a few days to get it measured up and modeled properly.

Appreciate your assistance in the project.

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Old 02-17-2023, 07:56 AM
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The raised lip around the edge would be the single best thing for improved stiffness. Plastic choice should remain in favor of UV resistance and temperature stability.

I like the surface finish. Another option would be to put the raised lip on the backside. Adds the stiffness but doesn't mimic the factory shape.

Yet another approach would be to print it with the lip on the front and if the surface finish of the face gets too rough, a separate insert (engine turned aluminum? ) could get glued on.

Fun project...thanks for your work!

Eric

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Old 02-17-2023, 12:56 PM
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Excellent ideas. Lots of stuff I haven't thought of.

Would probably be very easy to print an insert that could be glued in because it would be totally flat, would have the good finish, and could be made very thin. Hmmm, going to have to give that a try for sure.

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Old 02-17-2023, 02:03 PM
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not to TOTALLY derail you, but if you could print an insert as such, then we could even just use the reproduction radio faceplate, and put this over top of it.

I am quite enjoying this discussion, and even though my car had an optional radio, I plan on being in on what ever the outcome is here...

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Old 02-17-2023, 03:22 PM
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I took a different path making them.
Waiting on the 3D printer guy to get me my standoffs.
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  #49  
Old 02-17-2023, 04:12 PM
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unruhjonny, totally a possibility .. when I get a radio plate in my hands (today) I'll see if it's possible to just print the insert.

Held for Ransom ... is that the textured sheet you cut out to fit? Looks great ... yep some standoffs to mount it and you'd be all set.

Yeah I'm loving exploring what's possible for things like that. I see so many grommets, body gaskets, air seals etc. that could be printed on these cars.

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Old 02-17-2023, 04:56 PM
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Quote:
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Held for Ransom ... is that the textured sheet you cut out to fit? Looks great ... yep some standoffs to mount it and you'd be all set.

Yes. I bought a 3/16" thick piece. Had it laser cut and scribed on the back for standoffs. They will be SuperGlue'd and/or Acetone'd in place and will use a nut (not what I described to you earlier) to attach. Was also thinking I could use 1/8" and have a raised border printed and glued on. Acetone or paint thinner can be used to knock down the sheen.
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  #51  
Old 02-19-2023, 06:47 AM
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On a side note ... just finished this print project with another forum member. Dealer badge for his (I think) Trans-Am. Printed in black and Gold.


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Old 02-19-2023, 08:55 AM
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You can print in colour now?

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Old 02-19-2023, 09:39 AM
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My guy is having a problem printing the standoff...
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Old 02-19-2023, 04:03 PM
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Just print a tapered shape, sounds easy, I have no idea. The threads are cut by the helmet nut.

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Old 02-19-2023, 05:18 PM
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I can print color by the layer ... if it was a layer cake you can have white or chocolate on different layers, but not in the same layer. In the case of that emblem the letters and features were raised ... so I told it to print the black background, then stop where the letter layer begins so I could change the filament, then restart where it left off.

Held for Ransom ... in general, I wouldn't think they would be a problem depending on what kind of plastic he was using. Small threads are very tricky to model .. yep I would have gone with a tapered stem ... and probably a thin disk base to provide for better gluing.

I've got your plate right here, I'll see if I can guesstimate the standoff dimensions using that plate and see if I can print some up real quick. I hear these plastics can be tricky to glue ... a google search should turn up something bonds well to them. Not sure epoxy would be good ... well probably ok if you rough up the surfaces and don't bend it much. I think people prefer a solvent glue that bites into the plastic.

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Old 02-19-2023, 06:15 PM
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It was suppose to be a tapered pin (stud). 0.15" at the top and 0.20" at the base of the stand. I don't know what plastic he was using. Maybe the tip was putting out too much and wasn't setting up fast enough. I'll send you my sketch.

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Old 02-20-2023, 05:08 AM
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This is what I came up with ... I sent you an email about one of the dimensions that was missing. This is a test print where I made the "fins" .375" until you confirm the dimension.

Very sturdy ... I have my doubts about gluing it on well, just not enough surface area .. but I can easily add a thin disc on the bottom to fix that. Also seems like the tapered pin should be a tad longer to make it a bit easier to get a nut on it .. but since I don't have a Bird I'm just guessing.

This is the same piece I would incorporate into the delete plate I'm working on ... so the dimensions you sent were very helpful.

Not sure your time frame, but I can print up whatever you need and send them back with the radio plate you loaned me. I was also eyeballing the photos of the OEM delete plate you emailed me to get the design of this standoff right (or at least close). The piece in the photo is made exactly to your dimension within the capabilities of my machine. (except for the missing fin height)

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Old 02-21-2023, 03:43 AM
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Here is a photo of what I call a "delete insert", a printed flat piece that fits inside an existing radio bezel.

The problem with gluing this in place on the bezel would there would then be no way to attach the bezel to the dash. So .. the other picture shows the "stand-offs" used on the OEM delete plate ... I would add those standoffs to this insert plate so you could just place it in the radio bezel and attach them both as you would with an OEM delete plate with speed nuts on the back, through the knob holes for your missing radio.

This solution would be damn near indistinguishable from an OEM delete plate. It has a very nice satin finish on it. Would also work for someone that is missing the bezel .. but wouldn't look as OEM.

The next step up is printing the whole delete plate, with the stand-offs on the back, with the proper bezel lip ... and then a very thin glue in insert that would have the nice finish on it.

Options could be the silver trim around the outer edge as seen on the OEM radio bezel, and just about any color raised text, Pontiac, Firebird etc. or emblem embossed on the front.

What do you guys think? Is the insert plate enough for most people? Do most people that want a delete plate still have the radio bezel? Is there even any demand for a delete plate? I'm not looking to make them or sell them, just kind of wondering if it's common enough that anyone would care



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Old 02-21-2023, 12:00 PM
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Couple of pictures of a delete insert, front and back installed. Just place it over an empty radio bezel and attach behind the dash with a washer and 3/16" speed nut like an OEM delete plate.

This is tested and works with a 70-71 radio bezel.

The question is do we think there is a need for a complete delete plate that does not require an existing radio bezel? I think what would be required would be printing the main part, and printing an glue in insert with a nice finish. Or printing the main part and then printing a separate Lip that would have to be glued on. Not sure how well a glued on lip would work unless there is an adhesive that bonds really well to this plastic, tightening down the plate could put considerable stress on it.

(this example has a slight blemish in the corner)





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Old 02-21-2023, 12:20 PM
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All good questions.

In general, the demand for stand-alone delete plates and custom bezels for aftermarket radios will always be small but not zero. In my case, I have no factory radio bezel, so I'd have to buy one and then glue the insert in.

I'd vote for making the lip a part of the main print, since it acts as a structural stiffener. Gluing in a (non structural) decorative center piece sounds like a good approach to get the right appearance.

JMHO,
Eric

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