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Old 01-26-2020, 08:08 AM
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Default ‘65 Vinyl “Cordova” top

At the factory, the vinyl got done before the rear window was set in? It looks to have been tucked in tight around the window.. Is the same replacement material available?

I think they look good on the 65 body style.

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Old 01-26-2020, 10:16 PM
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It's possible but I don't believe so. A good top man can install a vinyl top with the front and rear windshield already installed. Just have to remove all the reveal moldings.

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Old 01-28-2020, 12:02 PM
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May be a good idea to take both pieces of glass out . The Butyl setting tape does not last forever. Very common for it to give up bond. Should be no problem removing glass without breaking the glass. Clean the tracks polish your trim install you top and put back together.

Some ppls use urethane I'm not a supporter in these old cars . it can squeeze into the inside of track and is noticeable from inside car . If car is judged that could cost you points .

Originally there was a thin strip of foam tape on inside of windshield and back light that was a barrier from dust dirt from sticking to butyl tape also gave a finish touch . Very few cars got this reinstalled. You will have to get a little creative to simulate this look . But its a detail most miss.

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Old 01-30-2020, 10:59 AM
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Thanks, what brand window sealer is the best to use these days? The front or rear windows on '65s did not use a gasket, correct? I think they just used urethane sealant.

I will pull the windows before redoing the headliner or Cordova top.

Both probably leak. The sun over time shrinks the original sealant.

I will see if the front windshield is water tight before I pull it out but I highly doubt it.

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Old 01-30-2020, 12:02 PM
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window setting tape ( Butyl )
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Old 01-30-2020, 12:15 PM
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Thanks. 2 packs are enough for both front and back glass?
Does the tape have a channel you push onto the glass?

And I had thought to use 3M Urethane tubes. Glad I asked.

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Old 01-30-2020, 09:11 PM
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You simply lay the butyl tape (as dld has shown) evenly on the ledge and place the glass down and push it down all the way around until you can see it has sealed. The come to you glass companies like to use the Urethane tubes because it's quicker and they have less comebacks. You can use a heat gun to go all around the edges of the glass to help it seal faster.

Also, IIRC it takes a different clip for the reveal moldings with a vinyl top. Others may chime in.

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Old 01-31-2020, 10:14 AM
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If someone or glass co. talk you into using the urethane instead of the tape shown. In addition to urethane spreading or flatting . the glass can set to low. This will make moldings fit pour. The butyl will set the glass the correct height

I put the tape on the edge of the glass and set it . but ether way will work.

I think Jerry is correct about clips . Been to long ago for me to remember for sure.

Tip ..put the clips in before installing glass . if you chip the edge of the W/S its gonna crack . Back light is tempered much tougher

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Old 01-31-2020, 11:16 AM
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THanks fellas,
Will post here as work progresses.
I cannot find any clips on my rear window. What do they look like?
Here is a picture.
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...6&postcount=19

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Old 01-31-2020, 01:45 PM
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Cordova Tops and Painted Tops.

They were a popular option back in the day, but made for a huge problem with water damage and rust issues.

The aluminum base trim (molding/belt) was attached to the body with a variety of fasteners that required holes.

These holes allowed water to pass into the trunk area via rain or washing.

Below is a 65 GTO with the trim removed showing these holes.


Chris
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1) 65 GTO Survivor. 43,440 Original Miles. “Factory” Mayfair Maize Paint with Black Pinstripe, Black Cordova Top, Black Interior, OEM Numbers Matching Powertrain. Purchased from the Lady that bought it new. Baltimore Built (11A).
2) 66 GTO Survivor. “Factory” Cameo Ivory Paint with Red Pinstripe, Red Interior. OEM Numbers Matching Powertrain. Tri-Power (OEM Vacuum Linkage), Automatic "YR" code (1759 Produced). Fremont Built (01B), with the Rare 614 Option.
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Old 01-31-2020, 02:07 PM
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good point Chris .

for those that do not want to re-attach there clips for moldings and trim with screws after rust repair. you can have your shop or you can replace the nail head studs with a stud gun and these replacement studs .

tool is also called a pin welder
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Old 01-31-2020, 02:23 PM
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I inspected mine pretty carefully before purchase, and hope it's not that bad.
I'm sure a lot of people passed on the car because of it.

JBP had a picture of two drag race cars on his website, both with Cordova tops, a silver and a gold car right next to each other, and I always wanted to do one.
I think it looks great on silver and gold cars, really shows off the lines. And sometimes they look like fake convertibles!!

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Old 03-28-2020, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 60sstuff View Post
Cordova Tops and Painted Tops.

They were a popular option back in the day, but made for a huge problem with water damage and rust issues.

The aluminum base trim (molding/belt) was attached to the body with a variety of fasteners that required holes.

These holes allowed water to pass into the trunk area via rain or washing.

Below is a 65 GTO with the trim removed showing these holes.


Chris
What is the best way to seal up the trim holes to make them watertight? Want to keep the Vinyl top.

  #14  
Old 03-28-2020, 01:30 PM
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Any dynomat type material or butyl roofing tape works well in my experience.

For a more permanent fix Por-patch seam sealer from Por15 works well.

Most though just use a dum dum type putty or seam sealer.

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Old 03-28-2020, 03:56 PM
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I have an in progress 65 vinyl top car so am interested in this discussion. Like all the GM cars of this era, the glass and trim design was a huge failure. The moisture not only destroys the window opening, but also ruins the trunk floor.
A vinyl top only increases the mayhem. My rear window surround is so completely gone due to the rust that I may take another approach to the rear window. The front I can save.

Anyway, here is another discussion of the window install. I did not think that 3/8 tape was used but would have to check the manual. Good luck.

https://www.chevelles.com/forums/12-...ane-aaarg.html

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Old 05-22-2020, 02:44 PM
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Does the replacement material you get from Ames or SMS have the correct cloth-like backing? My upholsterer says they don't come that way anymore.

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Old 05-22-2020, 07:31 PM
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Just a couple of quick points... I have a friend that owns a glass business. He says use the 5/16 Butyl tape, 3/8 is too thick and you will have problems getting the trim back on. Secondly, he says by law, he as in through his business, is not allowed to use Butyl tape to re-install any glass. He can't reinstall my glass for me because i want to use Butyl, but he said he can help me on the weekend.

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Old 05-24-2020, 07:33 AM
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I thought it was 5/16 for the back glass and 3/8 for the front? Or does he use 5/16 on the front also?

I plan on using both tape and 3m urethane.

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Old 05-25-2020, 06:44 AM
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5/16 for both.

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Old 05-25-2020, 03:48 PM
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AHA. You see my memory chip is still working. I thought 3/8 was too big. Did my 65 rear many moons ago. 5/16 it is. I still have some rolls in stock.
I was concerned when a glass man came to do the front window on the car, now with my daughter, and he butyled it. It sat too low afterwards.

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