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Old 01-06-2018, 09:10 PM
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Default Steering Column assembly

Trying to get the GTO on the road safely. Chasing a short that blows the Taillights Fuse when I push the brake pedal. Also lights up my Courtesy light... I have no Running, turn or brake lights at this point.

Troubleshooting the turn signal wiring and took the steering wheel off.
Can't be sure now how the bowl goes back on. I can push it down in two locations. One more CCW and it can only be turned a small amount in that position when it is held down.
One position more CW and when held down, the bowl can be turned more.

I included a link to a video on Dropbox. It should play.

First I push it on and in one spot it barely turns.. In the other spot it can be turned a bit more.

Any experience here? The 67 Service Manual doesnt describe the bowl replacement in any detail.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/qiqindddtr...62815.mp4?dl=0

Thanks!

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  #2  
Old 01-07-2018, 08:10 AM
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Jeff Hamlin Jeff Hamlin is offline
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Are there any "Witness" marks on the Jacket from the bowl?
This may help identify the correct/oe position?

Or you may be able to measure the two lock-in locations and then the cover/collar and wheel hub to get an idea of shaft protrusion needed.

Otherwise I think you'll have to loosely reassembly and hope you pick the correct location on the first attempt.

I know there are no 67 columns at the shop so cant assist with any measurements.

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Old 01-07-2018, 01:29 PM
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Thanks Jeff!
It seems to rest at to the same depth in either position.
It appears that this bowl has a long piece / tube on it that must fit into something deep inside.. I didn't want to fully disassemble it now, I think I'd have to get the wiring harness out and be able to to pull this all the way out to see how that bottom works..

I'll try loosely assembling the top pieces as you suggest and see..
I wonder if that bowl gets tight when the column is properly assembled and the bowl cannot be spun at all? Or, can it be spun only in one of those two manners shown in the video when properly assembled and tightened.

I never noticed if it can be rotated. Can someone with a 67 try spinning their bowl for me?
:-)

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  #4  
Old 01-07-2018, 07:17 PM
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I would like to help, but I can't open the Dropbox video to see exactly where you are at with this issue.
Kerm

  #5  
Old 01-08-2018, 03:19 PM
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Sorry about that. I checked it a few ways and it should work ok.

At this point I have a good idea that the short was a chafed harness in the turn signal.. Not real sure but Im going to replace it. I am going to just pull the column all the way out, unbolting it at the rag joint now.

I'll report back..

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Old 01-08-2018, 07:52 PM
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Hi, James.... The link was fine. I didn't realize that it was a hot link... DOH! From what I can see, you are trying to turn the wrong piece. That lower 'bowl' that you are moving in the video is in proper position when you push it in the first time and it doesn't move at all. The unit that has to be rotated to lock it into the column is shown on page 9-20 of the manual. The piece that is connected to the signal ribbon has to be assembled with all of the pieces of the column shown on page 9-16 of the manual, held together by the three large screws that hold down the signal switch. I wish I had taken pictures. I just finished replacing the signal switch. It isn't necessary to pull the column all the way out in order to change out the switch.
Kerm

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Old 01-08-2018, 09:09 PM
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If you look at the column diagram on page 9-16, parts 7 through 16 are all held together by part #3 bolts.

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Old 01-08-2018, 11:43 PM
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Thanks Bolt! I got the switch out easily. I knew I didn't have to remove the column to do that.

Removing the snapped in clips/covers underneath made sliding the harness out pretty easy. It is the reassembly that I'm not sure of.

There is no diagram in the manual of a Floor Shift, Non Tilt column, so some assumptions have to be made it seems.

Knowing how the Energy Absorbing Column Tube fits at the bottom was the reason I was am now considering disassembling further in order to see how it fits at the bottom, How is it "keyed".. I can't watch the bottom engage near the firewall against the lower shaft spring while I am pushing it in from inside the car.

Your helpful comment on the positions is what I needed!
But, look at diagram 9-36 on page 9-21. It shows the Bowl in what seems to be the second position in my video.. More Clockwise?
In your comment:
"That lower 'bowl' that you are moving in the video is in proper position when you push it in the first time and it doesn't move at all. The unit that has to be rotated to lock it into the column is shown on page 9-20 of the manual."
Do you mea; : I first push it in to my first position, THEN turn it to lock it in the second position? (I'll go try that to see if it's Possible)

I am pushing on the "Bowl". It happens to be attached to the Tube (press fit it seems The Tube is what has to fit a certain way at the bottom of the column.

After watching a video on YouTube, I see that the Bowl can be removed from the Tube. Although the video showed a somewhat caveman method using a hammer.....Removing the Tube is also described on page 9-13 diagram 9-25 of the Manual using a special tool. I had figured it could be removed, but it was very tight and I didn't want to use brute force on that if I did not have to.

I also can not pull/remove the tube from the inside as something on end of the Tube which I cannot identify on the manual, nor can I see it, is hitting something in the "Jacket" before the tube slides out.

I thought if I get the column out I could easily see and assemble the tube properly since I could see the bottom as I push on the Tube..

That's my long winded situation. I may hook up my cell phone camera scope and watch the bottom as I push the tube to see how it is fitting down there..

Thanks a whole bunch for taking the time to reply I'll go look and report back. BTW, I have a new switch harness on the way.

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'67 GTO Convertible "Koerner Built 413 500 hp with a Victor!.. I'll run a stock intake."
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Details here:
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Old 01-08-2018, 11:50 PM
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Well the Bowl pulled off the tube easily..... Must of been the WD-40 I doused it with yesterday .. so that's off. (To get painted anyhow).
But I tried pushing the Tube in and then rotating it to the right. it doesn't feel like it's locking. Just feels like it is dropping into one position, then as I turn it, lifting as if it is riding up on something for a half inch of rotation and then dropping in to the other Clockwise position.
Will keep at it.

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'67 GTO Convertible "Koerner Built 413 500 hp with a Victor!.. I'll run a stock intake."
'75 Formula 400 - Daily Driver -
Running with my Home Built 455 and TH400

Details here:
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=588372
  #10  
Old 01-09-2018, 02:05 AM
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James...
OK... Very interesting that you got the Bowl and connected parts out of the shaft housing. When you go to put it back in, it should go into the shaft as your video shows it at 20:55 secs. and again at 34:28 secs. You can feel it slide all the way down to where it should be and 'seat', That's the "one position" it keeps dropping into. The Bowl assembly doesn't need to lock.

After you reassemble the whole signal unit, including the collar with the openings for the signal selector and emergency flasher knob(?), as I gave it to you by the manual numbers. THAT unit has to lock into the shaft housing(?). You slide the assembled unit onto the shaft with the hole for signal selector at around 8 o'clock, which gives you the other hole in the collar at about 2. You have to push the unit down into the Bowl and rotate it CW until the holes are at 9 and 3. If you can't get it to rotate at first, you'll need to back the 3 screws out evenly, a little at a time, until you can feel the turn. You'll be pushing again those springs you put at the bottom of the unit. It can be kind of interesting, but that's how it works.

I hope that this all makes sense. Let me know if you need more clarification or suggestions. Hang in there.
Kerm


Last edited by boltbuster; 01-09-2018 at 02:08 AM. Reason: additional info
  #11  
Old 01-19-2018, 07:10 PM
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Have column out and apart. Painting the bowl and collar and cleaning it up now..

Upper bearing feels and looks good.

Lower bearing inner race has stress cracks and the Bearing MIGHT be missing a few BB's... I can't tell. It feels smooth enough and was intact but the balls dont fill the race. There is room for a few more. it might have been assembled that way. It does come apart too easily and it was a good thing I disassembled it on my workbench..
I went though my old parts stash and I thought I had purchased an NOS lower bearing yars ago. I did find it but it is only the Retainer. My retainer is fine so that was no help.

I ordered the replacement from Gary's Classics. Should be here next week.
I bought a new turn signal harness since that is what drove this whole "might as well" anyhow.. I don't have turn or brake lights now for some reason..
Car is down until then. Kinda frustrating as I only have about 10 miles on this new motor and am itching to really test this out..
http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/Gt...ering%20Column
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Details here:
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  #12  
Old 03-05-2018, 02:18 AM
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I have the steering column back together. I have the new switch installed. I have not installed the column yet.
I'll put the switch terminals into the curved plug that was supplied with the switch, once I get the whole column in place. This way I can still remove the switch and wires if I have to...
Once I had the column all apart, it became clear how the collar and bowl fit together. I did have to unscrew the three collar screws so that the ends of the screws were not protruding through the plate in order to get the bowl to turn and lock. Otherwise I think the tips of the screws were catching on the bowl..
Kinda hard to describe.. But anyhow here are some photos.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/DLoeksMcQwarsDU62
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Running with my Home Built 455 and TH400

Details here:
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  #13  
Old 03-05-2018, 01:20 PM
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I forgot to mention that I used the replacement lower bearing and bushing that Gary's Classics sells. it fit perfectly.

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'67 GTO Convertible "Koerner Built 413 500 hp with a Victor!.. I'll run a stock intake."
'75 Formula 400 - Daily Driver -
Running with my Home Built 455 and TH400

Details here:
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  #14  
Old 03-12-2018, 09:55 AM
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Got it back in. Will finish as I put the bezel back in.
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'67 GTO Convertible "Koerner Built 413 500 hp with a Victor!.. I'll run a stock intake."
'75 Formula 400 - Daily Driver -
Running with my Home Built 455 and TH400

Details here:
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  #15  
Old 03-12-2018, 10:13 AM
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Great progress, congrats!

I dig the upside-down loud pedal...

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  #16  
Old 03-13-2018, 11:18 AM
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What? You kidding me? It's been like that for decades.. Is it wrong? I never knew..

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'67 GTO Convertible "Koerner Built 413 500 hp with a Victor!.. I'll run a stock intake."
'75 Formula 400 - Daily Driver -
Running with my Home Built 455 and TH400

Details here:
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  #17  
Old 03-18-2018, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by vidguy View Post
What? You kidding me? It's been like that for decades.. Is it wrong? I never knew..
My gas pedal has been installed like that for the last 20 some years! I don't know if it is correct but I am leaving it that way.

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Old 03-18-2018, 08:38 PM
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Just relooked at that pic....yes the pedal IS upside down

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Old 03-19-2018, 10:01 AM
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Must be a Northern California thing Bill...

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'67 GTO Convertible "Koerner Built 413 500 hp with a Victor!.. I'll run a stock intake."
'75 Formula 400 - Daily Driver -
Running with my Home Built 455 and TH400

Details here:
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=588372
  #20  
Old 03-19-2018, 08:29 PM
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Must be a Northern California thing Bill...
I guess the boys in Fremont were drunk again, It still make the car go

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